Ground Cable
I had 2 braided cables - one as pictured above solenoid to battery and ground strap was from block to firewall (sheetmetal).
I did a complete 6v+ to 12v- conversion and double grounded mine. That is, grounded battery to frame and block to frame (same bolt on frame) - something I have seen dozens of people here mandate you do as part of an electrical tune up.
I did a complete 6v+ to 12v- conversion and double grounded mine. That is, grounded battery to frame and block to frame (same bolt on frame) - something I have seen dozens of people here mandate you do as part of an electrical tune up.
wiring
I have seen trucks wired that way, not sure why but the factory parts book shows one side of the solenoid going to the starter, other side of the solenoid to the battery (-). The factory book just doesnt show where the ground(+) cable attaches. In that pic, if you flip the batterr so the neg post(normally +) was close to the fire wall that would shoot it down to the starter but you would still need a ground cable. I think I have seen guys use a long cable from + to the coil tower. Its not original and usually the cables you buy at the store are not heavy duty enough for 6v. 0ga usually required. Its atleast 1/2 dia.(wire not coating)
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In the early model vehicles there was next to nothing electric IN the cab, so the direct ground wasn't really required..
now that we have all these fancy gauges, etc.. the ground is critical,
thus why there are usually three parts of the strap.. to chassis, to cab and to engine.
Sam
now that we have all these fancy gauges, etc.. the ground is critical,
thus why there are usually three parts of the strap.. to chassis, to cab and to engine.
Sam
wiring
51panelman, that it how it was wired from the factory, the way you mention. If you look at the picture, item 14431 is a ground strap from the coil mounting on the head to the frame near the battery box. Dick, the ground cable(pos on battery) connects to the firewall, engine ground goes to the battery box so I guess you are saying connect a wire to connect the two due to rust and corrosion between the cab and battery box area. Not a bad idea, probably does not need to be a huge wire since its only for the gauges.
The factory parts books show the wiring that way because that's the way it's supposed to be wired. The solenoid in question is the starter solenoid. When you push the starter button, the solenoid is energized closing the switch which sends power from the battery through the solenoid switch to the starter. That's the way all Fords were wired for eons, both positive and negative ground.
Hot Braided?
I can't believe the first photo is correct. Whether the truck is positive ground or changed to negative ground, whatever cable goes to the solenoid is hot, and should be insulated. It would work that way, it'd just be too easy to short it out.
Anyway, my 51, which is mostly original, has the braided ground cable from the battery to the coil bracket on the head. It's important to have the big ground wires to the engine rather than the frame or body, because the biggest current is through the starter, and you want the most direct route. Mine also has a smaller braided ground from the back of the manifold (can't remember which bolt) to the cab for grounding gauges and lights (14431). I suspect there's a ground cable to the frame from somewhere, but I can't bring it to mind at the moment.
Jonas
Anyway, my 51, which is mostly original, has the braided ground cable from the battery to the coil bracket on the head. It's important to have the big ground wires to the engine rather than the frame or body, because the biggest current is through the starter, and you want the most direct route. Mine also has a smaller braided ground from the back of the manifold (can't remember which bolt) to the cab for grounding gauges and lights (14431). I suspect there's a ground cable to the frame from somewhere, but I can't bring it to mind at the moment.
Jonas
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