I agree, Mark. I’m just surprised how far it’s pulling down with 700 CCA batteries.

 

Might be worth cranking with the belt off to see if more rpms can be achieved.

If not, then remove the starter and have it tested.

A few things to try - just to be thorough.

 

If I'm reading your chart correctly, it looks like about 5-6 seconds of cranking before ICP builds. That seems pretty long to me.

Yes, a bad starter, bad connection, or bad cable can cause a voltage drop and a slow crank/no start.
Adding an additional battery into the mix, or just a jumper from a running vehicle would be a good idea.

 

so I brought home from work 2x 1000cca batteries that are too bit, put jump leads on and tried it a few times and it got 681 revs on forscan and nearly started.

this was after around 5 tries I got this graph.

it doesn’t seem to be far off so I am wondering if it’s perhaps a lazy starter?

this is (and the 681 revs) are with the GPCM & Belt on/connected

 

I do not believe that you can get 681 rpm by simply cranking with the starter (just not possible if there is any compression at all).

 

It basically tries to fire numerous times revs went to 768 then immediately goes back down to 250 ish, so I don’t know if it’s a lazy starter or batteries as the vpower and lpower voltage is still down

 

The chart shows no rpm for the first half second, then no high spikes after that. I do not know why you are seeing the initial "exceptionally high rpms", but they are not real.

I do not like the saw-tooth rpms though.

I think your IPR valve may be sticking for one potential issue (bear in mind that the IPR %Duty Cycle PID is ONLY a command - there is no actual position feedback on the IPR valve).

IMO you need to verify fuel flow to the secondary fuel filter and that there are no bubbles in the fuel (check for air when filling the secondary fuel filter housing, and when cranking with a level in the secondary fuel filter housing that is above the top of the standpipe). Do the cranking test with the FICM relay removed.

 

No best starter around
what brand we all want one turning mach1 lol

way out spec here

seems more like false sensor reporting electronic glitch but should have codes
without any doubt you have a code p1000 do you see that code

Mark might be into something if it really getting that rpm with aeration

 

the couple of seconds before all the high spikes is the time I press play on the graph to getting it turning over,

I have just put in a new IPR valve as the old one was slightly damaged.

I have verified fuel flow already, I removed the secondary filter and turned the key and watched how quickly the fuel rose in the bowl, which was very quick, and there were no bubbles.

the high revs is the engine trying to start as I can hear it just about fire then dies out

 

there’s no code’s especially p1000 I just a a u1352 code for the ignition that’s it

just with the higher cca batteries the starter didn’t seem to turn over any faster

 

In post #25 you gave us this chart:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...f6198419c.jpeg

It clearly shows that cranking is barely at 150.

Then you posted another chart (post #34):

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...eaa18b7b31.png

And you are saying that it isn't cranking any faster? I don't understand that statement because the charts say otherwise. The second chart shows cranking rpms are around and frequently above 200.

VPower and LPower appeared to be better when you got the higher cranking rpms from the bigger batteries. HOWEVER, it looks like you set a lower limit for your voltage chart range of 10 volts (and the line flattened out at this 10 volt minimum). If you did, we need you to change that chart range and re-post because we need to see how low the voltage actually dropped. If the chart is "auto-ranging" and the voltage is really not dropping below 10 volts when cranking, then that is good enough.

Several suggestions have been made that you need to follow up on:
Post Injector Pulse Width (or Fuel Pulse Width) when cranking.
You need to check up further on fuel delivery. including checking for air in the fuel (edit) when cranking. After re-reading your thread a few times, I realized that you did check for bubbles when filling the secondary fuel filter housing.

I have a few edits in this post (above and below) because I needed to re-read the thread, my apologies - it is the middle of the night here and I was unsuccessfully multi-tasking. The cranking bubble test is a test for injectors that might show leaking combustion gas getting into the fuel. It is done with the FICM relay removed and a fuel level in the secondary fuel that is "just above" the top of the fuel filter housing standpipe (or remove the fuel filter housing standpipe). Then crank. Keep the batteries charged because the test requires cranking for 20-30 seconds, several times (with several minute rest periods in between).

You may need to drop the tank and pull the fuel level / standpipe assembly to check its integrity. EDIT: You can also remove that assembly by unbolting the bed bolts and tilting the bed up. That said, as old as these trucks are, the bed bolts will be very rusted. You also may need to remove the fuel in the tank, we haven't talked about the possibility of bad fuel.

EDITED again: As you can tell from my posts above, it is beginning to look primarily like a fueling issue to me (which does not exclude a FICM issue).

 

Apologies, I forgot about the graphs on forscan, it didn’t sound like it was cranking any faster, but it is of course.

I will re try the cranking test with the FICM relay removed and see if any bubbles do appear, as I said previously the fuel level when the secondary filter was removed rose very fast.

Regarding the Lpower & Vpower I haven’t set any minimum voltage on forscan/pickup (I wouldn’t even have a clue where to start with that!)

Regards the fuel tank, can you explain what you’re meaning with the tank? As if the fuel in the secondary filter at the top of the engine is rising fairly quickly, surely that means fuel is being pulled through?

Now you mention it, it does sound like a fuel starvation problem, as it does literally fire then dies off again, what I did notice is when the vehicle just about fires and then dies, the FICM sync goes from yes to no for a second then back to yes. I will upload the graph I have with this on, maybe it is a bad FICM?

I have also done the injector buzz test and all 8 clicked fine

thanks

 

The best way to determine the proper fuel flow is looking at the fuel pressure with a gauge. The second test Mark is talking about is looking for bubbles that are coming from the injectors, not sealing properly. When that occurs, compression gases enter the fuel rail and stop the flow of fuel to the injectors. They initially start to fire off, but then become fuel starved. I’ll try to find a quick video that shows that. I’m not at my computer right now, so it will take a minute.

 

This is Pete’s (87crewdually here) video, who has excellent experience with the 6.0. Unfortunately, he only pops in occasionally as he has a Ram now. This is with a later model Powerstroke than mine, which will keep fuel in the canister rather than drain out. I think your ‘05 does not drain.

 

At the age of our vehicles, we are starting to see problems with fuel delivery from the fuel tank. I made this video a while back, which kind of covers the issue and how to fix it, although like most of my videos it’s rather long. but it may not be applicable to the problem you’re having right now.