05 powerstroke non start
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2021
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Add ficm sync, cam/crank sync and rpm to your forscan graph.
You might just have a weak starter causing that voltage drop, but your getting enough rpm and voltage for the FIPW to fire.
I'd check fuel pressure. Theres a test port for a manual gauge on the filter housing on top of the engine.
You might just have a weak starter causing that voltage drop, but your getting enough rpm and voltage for the FIPW to fire.
I'd check fuel pressure. Theres a test port for a manual gauge on the filter housing on top of the engine.
I have checked the fuel and it seemed to rise very quickly in the secondary bowl when cranking. I will see if I have a gauge that will fit.
I was reading up and lt says the Vpower & Lpower needs to be a minimum of 11.5V for it to start!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,897
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I will check these tonight on forscan and see what the scanner says.
I have checked the fuel and it seemed to rise very quickly in the secondary bowl when cranking. I will see if I have a gauge that will fit.
I was reading up and lt says the Vpower & Lpower needs to be a minimum of 11.5V for it to start!
I have checked the fuel and it seemed to rise very quickly in the secondary bowl when cranking. I will see if I have a gauge that will fit.
I was reading up and lt says the Vpower & Lpower needs to be a minimum of 11.5V for it to start!
No doubt that it is a very good idea to (try to) keep the voltage above 11.5 volts KOEO, but it isn't a "starting requirement".
Factory FICMs are VERY susceptible to stress and damage from low system voltage. Dropping below 11.5 volts (KOEO) means that when cranking, and the vehicle voltage (VPower) is even lower, the FICM may be damaged, This is why it is highly recommended to have your FICM upgraded by FICMrepair.com or CircuitBoardMedics.com. Keeping the system and cranking voltages up requires vigilance and a fair amount of maintenance, it doesn't just happen! Make sure that the battery cable connections are clean and good!
The no-start potential from low voltage is closer to begin at 9.5 volts (slight chance), and become a certainty in the 8.something volt range.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2021
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Where did you see that statement? It isn't true. The recommended voltage (primarily for FICM health) is to be above 11.5 volts KOEO for those PIDs, but the engine can still start with voltage lower than that.
No doubt that it is a very good idea to (try to) keep the voltage above 11.5 volts KOEO, but it isn't a "starting requirement".
Factory FICMs are VERY susceptible to stress and damage from low system voltage. Dropping below 11.5 volts (KOEO) means that when cranking, and the vehicle voltage (VPower) is even lower, the FICM may be damaged, This is why it is highly recommended to have your FICM upgraded by FICMrepair.com or CircuitBoardMedics.com. Keeping the system and cranking voltages up requires vigilance and a fair amount of maintenance, it doesn't just happen! Make sure that the battery cable connections are clean and good!
The no-start potential from low voltage is closer to begin at 9.5 volts, and become a certainty in the 8.something volt range.
No doubt that it is a very good idea to (try to) keep the voltage above 11.5 volts KOEO, but it isn't a "starting requirement".
Factory FICMs are VERY susceptible to stress and damage from low system voltage. Dropping below 11.5 volts (KOEO) means that when cranking, and the vehicle voltage (VPower) is even lower, the FICM may be damaged, This is why it is highly recommended to have your FICM upgraded by FICMrepair.com or CircuitBoardMedics.com. Keeping the system and cranking voltages up requires vigilance and a fair amount of maintenance, it doesn't just happen! Make sure that the battery cable connections are clean and good!
The no-start potential from low voltage is closer to begin at 9.5 volts, and become a certainty in the 8.something volt range.
my truck voltage is getting to around 9.5V/9V, with the ICP having around 1500psi (average) I didn’t think it was a high pressure oil leak.
As I live in the UK sending my FICM back to the states will cost me a small fortune, I would be better off buying a new one.
i will add the RPM & Cam/Crank Sync tonight and upload the graph
thank you for your help
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,897
Likes: 3,615
You may need to plan on buying several FICM's over the next few years if you are running voltages that low. If those voltages are KOEO (as opposed to the run position during glow plug operation), it is really not good.
Maybe @Hartwig (lives in Germany) can offer a solution for a reliable FICM at a reasonable price for you.
You need to also track the ICP sensor voltage output. The pressure reading can be inferred by the PCM and not really be as high as is indicated. The sensor voltage output is way more reliable.
Just as an FYI (since availability of parts may be an issue for you) - There are MANY parts for the 6.0L that are just plain junk. If you don't have the availability of good parts, then the 6.0L may not be for you. We an help on what are good parts and what aren't when/if you need specific information. I guess what I am saying is that if you can't get the good parts, then it is potentially even worse to get cheap parts.
Maybe @Hartwig (lives in Germany) can offer a solution for a reliable FICM at a reasonable price for you.
You need to also track the ICP sensor voltage output. The pressure reading can be inferred by the PCM and not really be as high as is indicated. The sensor voltage output is way more reliable.
Just as an FYI (since availability of parts may be an issue for you) - There are MANY parts for the 6.0L that are just plain junk. If you don't have the availability of good parts, then the 6.0L may not be for you. We an help on what are good parts and what aren't when/if you need specific information. I guess what I am saying is that if you can't get the good parts, then it is potentially even worse to get cheap parts.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,827
Likes: 3,111
From: Jersey Shore
Unfortunately, those batteries are undersized for the vehicle. It’s not abnormal for me to go down to 10.2 to 10.5 V with older depleted batteries. But that’s my limit for as low as I care to go.
The first thing I would do is check all the cable connections both positive and negative. You could also post some images of the top battery connections for us to see as we can make some determinations from that.
with that being your limitations of battery size, you may end up having to go to a third battery, something I helped someone else do, and someday, will do all my own truck.
The first thing I would do is check all the cable connections both positive and negative. You could also post some images of the top battery connections for us to see as we can make some determinations from that.
with that being your limitations of battery size, you may end up having to go to a third battery, something I helped someone else do, and someday, will do all my own truck.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
You may need to plan on buying several FICM's over the next few years if you are running voltages that low. If those voltages are KOEO (as opposed to the run position during glow plug operation), it is really not good.
Maybe @Hartwig (lives in Germany) can offer a solution for a reliable FICM at a reasonable price for you.
You need to also track the ICP sensor voltage output. The pressure reading can be inferred by the PCM and not really be as high as is indicated. The sensor voltage output is way more reliable.
Just as an FYI (since availability of parts may be an issue for you) - There are MANY parts for the 6.0L that are just plain junk. If you don't have the availability of good parts, then the 6.0L may not be for you. We an help on what are good parts and what aren't when/if you need specific information. I guess what I am saying is that if you can't get the good parts, then it is potentially even worse to get cheap parts.
Maybe @Hartwig (lives in Germany) can offer a solution for a reliable FICM at a reasonable price for you.
You need to also track the ICP sensor voltage output. The pressure reading can be inferred by the PCM and not really be as high as is indicated. The sensor voltage output is way more reliable.
Just as an FYI (since availability of parts may be an issue for you) - There are MANY parts for the 6.0L that are just plain junk. If you don't have the availability of good parts, then the 6.0L may not be for you. We an help on what are good parts and what aren't when/if you need specific information. I guess what I am saying is that if you can't get the good parts, then it is potentially even worse to get cheap parts.
the Issue isn’t getting parts just the cost of shipment and duty etc. I get everything from Rockauto and always have done, there’s plenty of 6.0 in the UK!
what could be causing these low voltages is it a bad starter motor that’s taking too much current etc?
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Unfortunately, those batteries are undersized for the vehicle. It’s not abnormal for me to go down to 10.2 to 10.5 V with older depleted batteries. But that’s my limit for as low as I care to go.
The first thing I would do is check all the cable connections both positive and negative. You could also post some images of the top battery connections for us to see as we can make some determinations from that.
with that being your limitations of battery size, you may end up having to go to a third battery, something I helped someone else do, and someday, will do all my own truck.
The first thing I would do is check all the cable connections both positive and negative. You could also post some images of the top battery connections for us to see as we can make some determinations from that.
with that being your limitations of battery size, you may end up having to go to a third battery, something I helped someone else do, and someday, will do all my own truck.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,827
Likes: 3,111
From: Jersey Shore
The assembly line batteries were 750s with new lead. The aftermarket batteries we generally go to are 850s since they are recycled lead.
make sure the negative connection at the engine block is really good.
make sure the negative connection at the engine block is really good.
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Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2021
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Hope this helps as I’m at a loss with her!"]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/670x691/img_7948_42d9495e50647f7c8cb282b9732ebcfec2549383. jpeg[/img]
I have added the Cam/Crank Sync which is the yellow graph, the purple one is the ficm sync which looks good and the engine revs are 154 revs but that’s without it trying to fire like it usually does. Hope this helps as I’m at a loss with her!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,897
Likes: 3,615
Primary issues are:
From the document you linked above (Oregon Fuel Injection), regarding needing 11.5 V to start:
- cranking speed too low (it is dropping below 150)
- system voltage too low (it is dropping below 9 volts)
From the document you linked above (Oregon Fuel Injection), regarding needing 11.5 V to start:
If FICM M power is significantly below 45 volts and L and V power were above 11.5, suspect a FICM module concern. The voltage would have to be quite low to create no start, 35 volts or lower may create a no start condition. Buy 6.0 Powerstroke FICM and Related Parts
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2021
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so is this the batteries not being strong enough or something different?
these were with the GPCM unplugged
Thanks