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Can’t say for sure from here but when the bearings are bad they can definitely do that. The top spring could be weak. The last part that comes off the shaft before taking the head off that contacts the bearing could have a burr possibly but my best bet is it’s the bearings.
If I understand right, there's some kind of safety mechanism in there, there's a metal plate on the ignition block that interferes with the steering under certain conditions? It feels like that's what's causing the problem. If I was off by a tooth or something, could that be my culprit?
If I understand right, there's some kind of safety mechanism in there, there's a metal plate on the ignition block that interferes with the steering under certain conditions? It feels like that's what's causing the problem. If I was off by a tooth or something, could that be my culprit?
the metal bar on the block as you call it is the steering wheel lock. So if someone takes the ignition switch off the bottom of the column and starts the truck that way the steering wheel won’t turn and it won’t go into gear because of the lever under the shift tube. If you are off a tooth that could interfere for sure. As soon as you turn the key back enough that it can be removed from the lock cylinder that’s when the steering wheel lock should lock if the wheel is turned.
I'm pretty sure that's my problem. I marked the old actuator with a sharpie and put the new one in the same, but I could easily see being off a tooth. How can I know for sure the right alignment of the gear and actuator?
Line the big tooth up to the big notch like this. Move the actuator to the other end and the last tooth should hit the last notch like this. Do it with the lock cylinder out so you can look in that way. Move it with a screwdriver from the end of the tunnel the actuator rides in
Well I thought I had it, but once it was all together it was clunking again. I think it made a difference getting the teeth lined up right and it was going smoothly for a while. I think when I put the spring on the bottom it draws the U-joint back to where it's hitting the casing. See the pics. I'm a little confused about what keeps the pressure of that U-joint "bell" against its bearing. That spring just pulls the whole shaft back. The spring on the steering wheel side is slack. Should there be something that loads those bearing?
Thanks so much for the help. I'm not normally so clueless, but something about this system is stumping me.
The spring on the top of the shaft is what holds it against the big bearing. Take the spring off the bottom and then put the one on the top. Take the c clip past the first groove in the shaft it goes in the second groove. There should be no slack in that at all. It should be very tight. Then put the bottom spring back on. Hopefully I’m understanding you correctly. I wouldn’t consider it an easy repair the first time you do it so don’t be discouraged at all.
The spring on the top of the shaft is what holds it against the big bearing. Take the spring off the bottom and then put the one on the top. Take the c clip past the first groove in the shaft it goes in the second groove. There should be no slack in that at all. It should be very tight. Then put the bottom spring back on. Hopefully I’m understanding you correctly. I wouldn’t consider it an easy repair the first time you do it so don’t be discouraged at all.
They replace a lot of gears, bushings, bearings, etc...that are tedious to replace/repair, and you can just send your old core in and get everything replaced on the replacement. Give them a call, nice folks.
That said, you ford guys are a lot smarter than me, so it may be easier for you to repair the broken/worn-out bits.
I think we have a functional truck. Yeah, I didn't take note of how tight that spring was when I took that snap ring off the first time. Not sure the right way to get it on, but I found a pipe the right size and had my son put his weight down on it while I worked the snap ring pliers.
Thanks again for all the help. Hopefully it'll help someone else in the future as well.
I think we have a functional truck. Yeah, I didn't take note of how tight that spring was when I took that snap ring off the first time. Not sure the right way to get it on, but I found a pipe the right size and had my son put his weight down on it while I worked the snap ring pliers.
Thanks again for all the help. Hopefully it'll help someone else in the future as well.
There's instructions that has some assembly info at that link, above. It sounded like your ignition was fubar, I just replaced mine in the rebuilt column.
I think we have a functional truck. Yeah, I didn't take note of how tight that spring was when I took that snap ring off the first time. Not sure the right way to get it on, but I found a pipe the right size and had my son put his weight down on it while I worked the snap ring pliers.
Thanks again for all the help. Hopefully it'll help someone else in the future as well.
you are very welcome. I’ve had a lot of help on here from people like Conanski and manicmechanic007 and several others so I’m glad I could help and give them a day off 😂😂. I learn something on here almost every week and I’ve been a mechanic for over 35yrs. Next time you do it will be much easier if you ever have to again. You can make a compression tool similar to a harmonic balancer installer that threads into the steering wheel bolt hole and there are other methods too…but anyways. Glad one old Ford is still on the road! God Bless
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