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That column has the shaft with the u-joints just like a tilt column would have it just doesn’t have the same levers or the piece the shift lever screws into. So it has three bearings. You’ll have access to both the top ones when you take the head off. The bottom one is easy to get to but usually isn’t the one that grinds. It’s usually the top two. Spin them with your hand at that point and you’ll be able to grease them then if you decide to do that. Middle bearing Top bearing
Hey, what hold this block in? Or more to the point, what's the right way to engage the pin for the actuator? On one video, for the Ranger, the block just fell out. On the other video people somehow forced it in with the block in place.
They fall out on manual transmission columns. On auto there is lever under the shift tube held in by a pin. You should be able to pull it out enough to engage the pin though. If it’s stuck that’s possibly your problem. The position of the shift tube gear wise plays into it also
Something to do with only starting in park? How on earth do you get that pin out?
Yes it locks the column in park when the key is off via the slot on the bottom of the shift tube. It’s tricky. Put two appropriately sized flat screwdrivers behind it and spread them in a way that pushes the back of of the pin flush to the housing. Then hit it just the right angle with a punch until you can pull it out with some side cuts or small vise grips. Sometimes the pin breaks just so you know. Usually not. If it slides freely you may not need to take it out but I would especially as dirty as that column is. There is surely dirt in there and it should be re greased honestly.
Here's a pic for the record. But I don't really want to take it out, I think I could grease it in place. But is there a way to engage the actuator without pulling it out part way?
The correct way is to take it out. I’ve seen people shave the corner off the actuator just enough to get it in there but I don’t recommend it. You can grease it in place but there will still be dirt in it.
Now I have it back together on the bench, but when testing with the key I notice there is no spring action back from the start position. I'm pretty sure I clocked it right, but maybe I screwed it up. What do you think? The lever thing is still out, if that has anything to do with this. I didn't want to put it in until I was pretty sure I had everything right.
Now I have it back together on the bench, but when testing with the key I notice there is no spring action back from the start position. I'm pretty sure I clocked it right, but maybe I screwed it up. What do you think? The lever thing is still out, if that has anything to do with this. I didn't want to put it in until I was pretty sure I had everything right.
did you put the ignition switch back on the underside of the column yet?
Not yet. I was Googling around and I guess the spring back is in the switch itself. I got confused because there's a spring on the block, I though maybe that was its purpose. Is there anything else I can check to make sure I'm clocked right before I button this up? Is temporarily connecting the ignition switch a good test? These pics show the extent of travel of the hole in the block.
The spring on the block is more to assist going from acc to off. The spring back from the start position is from the ignition switch. Look at the slot on the block and turn the key all the way back and all the way forward. The slot should remain visible in both positions. Fairly centered in accessory position it should stick out the slot in front of the key cylinder slightly. If that’s the case and it feels right it is most likely correct.
If you don’t feel sure about it just plug it in to the truck making sure the cable is in park and see if it cranks and all the positions work before buttoning everything up so if not you don’t have to undo everything again. 👍
I held up a spare ignition switch and it all seems to line up, so that's good. My concern now is that the steering itself seems to be binding or hitting something. I put the shifter tube back on and put it in drive with the key on run and it still catches a bit. I think it could function with the leverage of the steering wheel, but it's not easy to rotate by the shaft. It turns smoothly without the spring in place on the bottom of the shaft, but once that's in place, it feels like it's binding a little. Is there something I could have screwed up in assembly to cause this?
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