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electrical alternator issues

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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 11:15 AM
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power bus's Avatar
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electrical alternator issues

Hay guys I have a brain twister, My batteries keep draining on my 1991 IDI 7.3 international. Some one told me if I disconected my battery cables the engine should stall out, meaning that the alternator is shoot and that is my issue.
So I did this and the engine kept running but my question is with a IDI diesel should it keep running regardless. ???
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 10:16 PM
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Have you had the batteries load tested?

In a semi dark place so you can see any small sparks, unhook both batteries from the positive cable.
As you unhook the last battery look for a small spark.

If you see one, or if the spark is not so small, start pulling fuses till it stops sparking.
the last fuse you pull is the problem circuit.

Also feel the alternator when the truck has not been running for several hours.
If the alternator is warm, the alternator is causing the problem.

I am not and never have been a fan of unhooking both batteries while the engine is running.
Some systems can be damaged that way.
Bad thing is, it don't really prove anything, it takes a very small amount of electricity to keep the fuel shut off solenoid open.

If the alternator was putting out about 1 amp at 6 volts, the engine would keep running.
But the truck would never start, and the lights would not work.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 10:49 PM
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The unhooking of the batteries only does one thing.... usually destroys the alternator. Those days you speak of were when we had generators........

As Dave stated do the fuse test..... but if you have a test light use it between the disconnected terminal and the battery..... if the fuses are removed/replaced one at a time as suggested with no effect, keep going until the light goes out. That is the offending circuit.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 11:38 PM
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unhooking teh batteries is bad business , processors and modern audio equipement do not play well with high voltage
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 08:50 AM
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Thaxs for the in put guys, Ill try it this morrning.
Dave good to hear from u again thaxs for all your help in the past.
I just put 0/40 in the bus big difference when starting.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 09:30 AM
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I tried this the alternator was ice cold and the fuses were all ok. I did as sugested and pulled one at a time and checked for a small spark and they all sparked. any ideas thax
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 10:09 AM
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Here's how to hook up the testlight. Make sure you take one of the batteries loose though, since lots of people hook add-on equipment to both batteries. Speaking of which, you need to disconnect any wiring added to the batteries too, to see if the light will go out.

If all the extra wiring to the battery is disconnected, and none of the fuses makes the light go out, then I would disconnect the alternator and see if the light goes out.

 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 10:47 AM
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Ha HA I did it back wards, not surprising to me you should see some of the silly things Iv done whille learning about this engine.
thax the picture always helps. I have two batteries but I think there is no issues here with your picture.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 09:19 PM
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OK I ended up pulling both blacks, to which I asume each havin a groung to the engine bloke. I hooked up my AMP probe ,one leed to the battery post the other to the - cable or blackk as I call it. Right away I got 12 volts which I wondered if I was doing it properly , so I continued to pull the fuses and a 15 Amp fuse fot the interior step and drivers door caused the Amp to come down slightly. {the bus is not runnning} So I concluded that this waas the issue and at pressent just left the fuse out until I drive it a little longer, Can any one give any input to what I have do hear. Thax
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 09:56 PM
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You should not be getting "12volts". If you are using an amprobe hooked in series like you described, you should be getting an amp reading. Using an amprobe, you have to determine what is good and what is a bad reading, since there is always a radio memory or something puttng a small drain on the battery. I would say if you are over 35ma, you are in trouble.

That's why the testlight works so well. It's a little crude, but the small normal drains you get won't light it up very bright.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 09:24 AM
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yep, I'v been thinking about this not only was I using the Amp probe incorectly I had the drivers door open when I was pulling fuses to which would mean the inside light would be on and It only makes sence that the probe would move a little when I pulled it. I'll go buy a light today unless u know of a way u can make a home made one .
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 10:12 AM
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If you have a small 12 volt light laying around, you can certainly hook it up and make a testlight. It may not have the fancy probe and alligator clip, but all you need are wires hooked to the bulb, and you can use it for the same purpose.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 10:33 AM
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I have some taillight bulbs Ill give it a try Thax
When I put my battery booster to the batteries this morning, it seemed that in fact the batteries did not drain over night but I'm still going to do the test light on it.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 10:42 PM
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a 180 ma maximum draw is acceptible but thats for a luxury vehicle with all the bells and whistles , if the bus has an automatic electronic controlled tranmission the processor for it like the radio also has keep alive power so it has a continuous draw , the two most overlooked items are the under hood light and the glove box light either one can remain on and has a high draw
 
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 01:01 AM
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I have not seen it yet in the posts is your Altenator Charging? I just had one draining my batteries when the truck was shut off. The altenator was luke warm to the touch in the morning. It would charge when running but when I shut it off the next day I would be reprogramming my radio stations.
Changed the altenator it was back to working order batteries are only a year old. No problems since. Fingers crossed!
 
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