Engine won't stop
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 163
Likes: 15
Engine won't stop
Hey guys. I'm at work and my son tells me that the 1993 F250 7.5L just keeps running with the key out. He pulled the negative cable from the battery and it kept going, which maybe isn't surprising? Maybe just running on alternator. Going after fuel pump fuse next.
Is this just a bad ignition switch probably? We did just replace the alternator, but there wasn't much to do wrong there.
Is this just a bad ignition switch probably? We did just replace the alternator, but there wasn't much to do wrong there.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,928
Likes: 1,199
From: Mojave, Ca
This is usually caused by owners doing electrical work and accidently splicing an ignition wire to a b+ wire. there are multiple ways of stopping the engine. Removing the coils high tension wire (the thick one) is the easiest
Tuned
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 307
Likes: 150
Pig metal linkage from the starter switch on the underside of the column to the key tumbler probably broke. It'll push forward to start the truck, but pull back on it and it'll do nothing. You can remove the starter switch from the column via two torx fasteners and actuate it by hand until you get the linkage in the column fixed.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 468
Likes: 67
From: Near SLC Utah
The way I align the ignition switch is I turn the key all the way to back, or the accessories position, and then push the ignition switch all the way forward towards the engine. I had some weird electrical problems, traced it down to the switch being bad and being misaligned.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 163
Likes: 15
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 163
Likes: 15
Okay, more data: I watched some video so I knew where to look, and the actuator rod does move with the key. I pulled off the ignition switch, and the plastic block in there that engages the switch does not move... so, could be the block or maybe the end of the actuator rod? Looks like the rods are easy to find, but the blocks not so much.
Trending Topics
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 107
Likes: 28
From: Indianapolis IN
Okay, more data: I watched some video so I knew where to look, and the actuator rod does move with the key. I pulled off the ignition switch, and the plastic block in there that engages the switch does not move... so, could be the block or maybe the end of the actuator rod? Looks like the rods are easy to find, but the blocks not so much.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,529
Likes: 2,658
From: Near Salt Lake City
The pin falls out of that plastic ignition actuator
You'll just have to remove the tilt pins and disassemble the tilt mechanism to replace the actuator
That is a decent, hard, big job for a first timer
It can be done
We all had to learn sometime
Trick is find the right screw threads and screw a screw / bolt into the tilt pin, then pull the pin out with the bolt using dykes
Then the spring will fight you but if you hold your mouth just right...you'll get it apart and back together
Keep in mind that the gear teeth need to mesh properly, be "clocked" correctly to work
So, test it a few times before going all the way back together
You'll just have to remove the tilt pins and disassemble the tilt mechanism to replace the actuator
That is a decent, hard, big job for a first timer
It can be done
We all had to learn sometime
Trick is find the right screw threads and screw a screw / bolt into the tilt pin, then pull the pin out with the bolt using dykes
Then the spring will fight you but if you hold your mouth just right...you'll get it apart and back together
Keep in mind that the gear teeth need to mesh properly, be "clocked" correctly to work
So, test it a few times before going all the way back together
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 163
Likes: 15
Well, I don't have the tilt steering column, so that might make it a little easier at least.
Do you guys think I ought to remove the whole column and work on the bench, or can I manage this just dropping it down still installed? I've had it somewhat far apart before to replace the shift tube.
Also, am I going to need to separate the column? I'm not totally clear what that's all about but it looks like a pain fighting some springs or something, unless that's related to the tilt steering somehow.
Makes sense about removing the block and cleaning that up, but it also looks like a painful part of the job. People claimed they could replace the actuator rod without it coming out?
Thanks for the help!
This is the best video I found so far, BTW:
Good writeup on removing the whole column: https://www.steeringcolumnservices.c...FordColumn.pdf
Do you guys think I ought to remove the whole column and work on the bench, or can I manage this just dropping it down still installed? I've had it somewhat far apart before to replace the shift tube.
Also, am I going to need to separate the column? I'm not totally clear what that's all about but it looks like a pain fighting some springs or something, unless that's related to the tilt steering somehow.
Makes sense about removing the block and cleaning that up, but it also looks like a painful part of the job. People claimed they could replace the actuator rod without it coming out?
Thanks for the help!
This is the best video I found so far, BTW:
Good writeup on removing the whole column: https://www.steeringcolumnservices.c...FordColumn.pdf
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 107
Likes: 28
From: Indianapolis IN
Thankfully on yours the tilt pins just unscrew with a t-30. It is a pain to remove the block because you have to remove the pin under the shift tube that holds the lever that locks the gear in park when the key is off. If it feels like it doesn’t want to move though it needs greased. That’s gonna be a judgment call. Yes you need to separate the column to do it right. With it being non tilt it’s a lot easier because you don’t have to fight the spring to put it back together. I take them out and do it on the bench usually but you don’t have to. Some people prefer leaving them in place. What manic said about it being clocked right or in time is very important. You have to get that right. The first tooth on the actuator is big and it fits into the big slot on the gear. If the pin fell out which is pretty common like manic said you could put it back in without disturbing the timing of that gear. I usually replace them when the pin comes out personally.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 163
Likes: 15
How do you like to separate the column? I saw one video where he used a C-clamp to press as a makeshift compression tool, and another where he used two screwdrivers and pried it up. The C-clamp guy was doing a Ranger and it only had one latch thing instead of two.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 107
Likes: 28
From: Indianapolis IN
I usually take it all the way apart so it’s different but you can do it either of those ways. Yours only has one latch being non tilt. I can see it in the picture you sent.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 163
Likes: 15
Got the thing out and on the bench. Hardest part was getting the shifter cable stuff off. I notice the turning of the steering shaft itself feels a bit gritty. Is that normal, or do I need to get some grease in there someplace?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 107
Likes: 28
From: Indianapolis IN