When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey yall,Been a while since I posted — my ‘94 Lightning’s been great since I replaced the PCM, but I ran into a possible trans issue. A few weeks ago, I overheated the transmission (teenager doing dumb things). I pulled over, let it cool for an hour, and drove it home an hour on the freeway with no issues. Fluid stayed bright red, no burnt smell. It’s been fine until this past week — now it shifts late (1–2 at 2100rpm), slips intermittently in 3rd/4th, and occasionally jumps gears (like 1st to 3rd). Sometimes it’ll bang into 2nd, but it’s mostly normal in light driving. No OD light flashing. Fluid still looks good, and I tested TPS, MLPS, and MAP — all in spec. Only code I got was 565 (trans solenoid circuit fault). Thinking it might be a failing EPC solenoid from the overheating. Still shifts fine most of the time. perhaps some of you masterminds on here can help me narrow my issue down.
Do you have a trans temp gauge? If so where is the sending unit located and what temp did it read? If no temp gauge, what was your overheating symptom? Front pump seal leak?
If you ever see it running warm again, doing burnouts or whatever, the best and fastest way to cool the trans back down, is to drive 45mph or so, or faster, on flat ground or downhill, under light load. Once up into 4th gear and especially with the converter locked, the trans will pump the most fluid through the coolers and all that wind speed will move the heat away from the coolers the fastest too. Rather than an hour of sitting, you could accomplish safe temps again, within just minutes.
All that said, the solenoid pack code needs to be addressed. First, inspect the connector. If it's not the connector, you'll want to test the solenoid.
Written for the diesel section, so ignore the 2 digit codes (where yours has 3) but all the basic info applies and will help you figure out how to check it:
When you overheated it, did you shut the engine off or put the trans in park and let it idle to cool it down?
If the trans was really hot and you shut the engine off you cooked the transmission. Always allow the engine to idle with the trans in park or neutral to cool off the trans.
When you overheated it, did you shut the engine off or put the trans in park and let it idle to cool it down?
If the trans was really hot and you shut the engine off you cooked the transmission. Always allow the engine to idle with the trans in park or neutral to cool off the trans.
i pulled over to a gas station and let it idle, was too scared to shut it off or anything lol. once it started grabbing gears again, i finished my drive to my destination in order let the wind and the cooler do their job to help cool down some more.was cruising in 4th doing at most 45mph.
ended up reading in a write up somewhere to check the solenoid pack. found ATF made its way to the connector. could this be what’s causing all of my shifting troubles?
Do you have a trans temp gauge? If so where is the sending unit located and what temp did it read? If no temp gauge, what was your overheating symptom? Front pump seal leak?
i noticed that i was slipping at around the 2k rpm mark, plies it was a hot florida day and i was beating on the trans, so i sort of put two and two together.
If you ever see it running warm again, doing burnouts or whatever, the best and fastest way to cool the trans back down, is to drive 45mph or so, or faster, on flat ground or downhill, under light load. Once up into 4th gear and especially with the converter locked, the trans will pump the most fluid through the coolers and all that wind speed will move the heat away from the coolers the fastest too. Rather than an hour of sitting, you could accomplish safe temps again, within just minutes.
thats exactly what i did after i pulled over, i just cruised to my destination.
All that said, the solenoid pack code needs to be addressed. First, inspect the connector. If it's not the connector, you'll want to test the solenoid.
Written for the diesel section, so ignore the 2 digit codes (where yours has 3) but all the basic info applies and will help you figure out how to check it:
Playing with the truck probably didn't hurt it at all and it probably wasn't even running too warm either. There's no symptoms posted anyway, that suggests the trans was ever running too warm.
I'd guess the issue is just the failed pack seal. The event would likely happen, had you just been taking it easy. You could likely simulate the problem by driving the same way, with a cold trans. Maybe that's enough scare to get a trans temp gauge in there just the same though. If you do, put your sending unit @ the test port.
Ideal will be 170F-180F and anything happy is 200-220F. Much higher than this often, and you probably want to cut down on your fluid change interval...or install an aux cooler to bring temps down under 200F so you don't have too.
The solenoid pack you'll need is 1989-1994 used good from reputable seller is just fine, or a reman.
Bolt specs for solenoid body are 100 inch lbs.
Pan bolts are 120 inch lbs.
Remove (then re-install) the heat shield.
Do not pry the connector using a screwdriver! Use only your fingers. If you break the clip, replace the connector
(They are called [for your '94]: 1989-1994 E4OD repair harness).
Remove the pan bolts, drop the filter and then unbolt the pack. Pry it down out, ensuring the o-ring comes with it or pry it out after.
Clean up the hole in the case, lube up the new o-ring with ATF and press the pack in. Reinstall filter, ensuring o-ring on that is tight. If you don't have a rubber pan gasket, you'll need a new one. If it's rubber and not ripped, re-use it.
If you don't yet have a in lb torque wrench. Get one. Don't guess.
ended up reading in a write up somewhere to check the solenoid pack. found ATF made its way to the connector. could this be what’s causing all of my shifting troubles?
Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
Playing with the truck probably didn't hurt it at all and it probably wasn't even running too warm either. There's no symptoms posted anyway, that suggests the trans was ever running too warm.
I'd guess the issue is just the failed pack seal. The event would likely happen, had you just been taking it easy. You could likely simulate the problem by driving the same way, with a cold trans. Maybe that's enough scare to get a trans temp gauge in there just the same though. If you do, put your sending unit @ the test port.
Ideal will be 170F-180F and anything happy is 200-220F. Much higher than this often, and you probably want to cut down on your fluid change interval...or install an aux cooler to bring temps down under 200F so you don't have too.
The solenoid pack you'll need is 1989-1994 used good from reputable seller is just fine, or a reman.
Bolt specs for solenoid body are 100 inch lbs.
Pan bolts are 120 inch lbs.
i’ve got a temp guage and a motorcraft solenoid pack coming in the mail soon.
