I powered most of the truck through the relay box from a 98 Explorer. Plus I added EPAS and a 2-speed fan with controller. I was just keeping most of the loads off the original harness and using them to trigger relays. I got the idea from another member.

 

Is there, maybe a thread on here that details this procedure for those of us who are interested - but maybe don't have the Distributor Knowledge as some?
Is it a Kit you purchase, and install it into the existing Distibutor?
This all sounds like it would save me $ (as opposed to buying a whole New Pertronix Distributor).

 

This is what I have had in my 70 f250 with 360FE for the last two years. I used to have an HEI in it for 8 or 9 years. I went back to my original dizzy and added the Petronix. It just basically drops in place of the points. You have to have full 12v to it at all times. You will either have to use a relay and bring 12v or cut the resistor wire, or run another wire. I cut the resistor wire out when I had the HEI dizzy in it. I would have used a relay instead if I knew better then.

 

Thanks. This sounds like a good potential path for me.
I've already been in touch with Wes Adams, and am planning on having him do a once over/re-curve on my current Distributor.
This is, once again, a great idea I've gotten from the Pros on here!

 

I can understand having a used distributor gone over and worn out components replaced as well as making sure it's producing a factory curve, though I'm wondering what you hope having it re-curved will do. I know folks send their distributor out for a re-curve. I just figure setting up the advance curve is something the driver has to do based on personal preference and based on custom engine modifications...like swapping camshafts or heads and intake.

Not picking on you because I've seen other folks having it done. It's along the same lines as deciding to run full vacuum, ported vacuum, or no vacuum advance. Folks sometimes argue over which is better but it's really a personal preference and situation/engine/car/truck dependent. I don't understand how someone can do it for you. I think they at least need to be in the car/truck with you if they're going to change the advance curve.

 

While I'm a Novice at all this (Learning Every Day!), the gentleman that does this asks a whole bunch of questions (on a form) about your engine, rear end ratio, etc., etc.
He's been doing it for awhile. It's something that is sorta over my skis. Not too expensive at all, and an easy upgrade to help, I'm thinking.
I'll write in, and let everyone know how it goes - it'll be a little while yet.

 

At the least and if you can, might want to run your truck as is. If the current distributor works as it should, put a few thousand miles on it to get a feel for how strong it idles, get an idea for mpg, etc. Also do some time trials where you time your acceleration from say 40mph to 65. Definitely map your current distributor's advance curve. (By that I mean measure the mechanical timing advance from idle to at least 3500 rpms in increments of 500 rpms. Also measure how much vacuum advance you get at idle.) This will give you the baseline. Then if you go ahead and get it recurved, I'd map the new curve to see what the guy did. And then repeat the time trials and re-check mpg.

I think you plan to use this truck to tow/haul. So put the engine through its paces and check for spark knock...especially if you get it recurved. These FE's are still around and somewhat popular due to guys who show their cars and race them and that's where much of today's experience with these engines lies. That's a different scenario than towing/hauling. I've seen highly experienced engine builders and a well renown distributor guy fumble the ball because they lacked experience it tow/haul use of engines.

So that's my long winded way of cautioning you to determine what you hope to accomplish by having someone (who is not in the seat beside you) recurve your distributor. For instance, do you want more power from 2000 to 3000 rpms, more mpg, etc?