Distributor Replacement
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 186
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Distributor Replacement
Hello All, my mechanic tells me my distributor has gone bad. So given that I need to replace it, I was thinking this may be a good time to get rid of the points and condenser.
Any suggestions for what to buy, what works well etc? Is there an all-in-one kit? Thanks!
1970 F250 360
Any suggestions for what to buy, what works well etc? Is there an all-in-one kit? Thanks!
1970 F250 360
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 14
From: Vale, NC
I just put a used ProComp distributor in my truck with a 302. You can get them on Amazon for like $55. I'm not sold on durability at all, but the truck currently runs great. The MSD and others are far more pricey but I have read good things about ProComp as well. Truthfully, a standard Ford HEI distributor probably works as good as anything if you aren't racing.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
Hello All, my mechanic tells me my distributor has gone bad. So given that I need to replace it, I was thinking this may be a good time to get rid of the points and condenser.
Any suggestions for what to buy, what works well etc? Is there an all-in-one kit? Thanks!
1970 F250 360
Any suggestions for what to buy, what works well etc? Is there an all-in-one kit? Thanks!
1970 F250 360
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 14
From: Vale, NC
Those are kits to use with the existing distributor, right? I thought he needed a new distributor. I suppose it depends then on if you are replacing the distributor or upgrading it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Pertronix does indeed make whole distributors too, their product line has expanded over the years.
Also note that if you go with a high output coil everything has to be in good shape - plugs, wires, cap, rotor. The distributor caps got larger in diameter for a reason - crossfire between plug towers/wires etc. It may be debatable whether whether 40k ignition is necessary but that's why. The old style caps can be made to work fine but it will be obvious right away if there are any weak spots in the chain, bad wires or defective plugs.
Also note that if you go with a high output coil everything has to be in good shape - plugs, wires, cap, rotor. The distributor caps got larger in diameter for a reason - crossfire between plug towers/wires etc. It may be debatable whether whether 40k ignition is necessary but that's why. The old style caps can be made to work fine but it will be obvious right away if there are any weak spots in the chain, bad wires or defective plugs.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,031
Likes: 72
Don't know if you are going for performance or not. But if not, and if the distributor is indeed needing replacement, why not just go with the standard factory replacement distributor (napa, etc.) and a pertronix I or II points replacement setup with perhaps the pertronix relay.
Not a performance setup, just a pretty reliable and easy to setup approach.
Not a performance setup, just a pretty reliable and easy to setup approach.
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
Don't know if you are going for performance or not. But if not, and if the distributor is indeed needing replacement, why not just go with the standard factory replacement distributor (napa, etc.) and a pertronix I or II points replacement setup with perhaps the pertronix relay.
Not a performance setup, just a pretty reliable and easy to setup approach.
Not a performance setup, just a pretty reliable and easy to setup approach.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
That's one of the best methods in my view, because points can be re-installed in the event if a problem on the road. Not likely, but the option is there if required.
I just figured JEFFFAFA was recommending a pertronix distributor.
Ted
I just figured JEFFFAFA was recommending a pertronix distributor.
Ted
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2012
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Thanks for all the info. It seems that if I were to choose the all-in-one Pertronix "Plug n Play" type, it would cost about $100-150 more than getting a factory replacement and then installing a Pertronix points replacement kit and relay. The only downside would be that I couldn't reinstall points in a pinch, but would possibly have some performance to gain. Am I missing anything?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
I don't think there would be any performance gain or difference per se. All things being equal, it's basically a scheme to lighten your wallet - performance coils, wires, etc. Technically either way - stock distributor w/ Pertronix module or a dedicated electronic ignition distributor should be identical, performance wise, imo.
A "new" or old distributor needs to be curved however, for the particular application for best performance. It's worth doing and DOES make a HUGE difference.
The stock or OEM advance curve is a compromise and mule built by government contract, primarily so there is no engine knock when hauling a load of gravel to Kansas City, say. That's what trucks were built for.
For a little better acceleration and pep most people prefer a bit of a performance curve. Standard "recipe" is a little less mechanical (centrifugal) advance, a little more initial crank advance, and lighter weight springs that bring in the engine advance earlier in the RPMs.
If you do plan on lots of heavy hauling you might want to keep everything as is, advance wise. Aggressive advance curves on high compression engines may require high octane fuel as well.
A "new" or old distributor needs to be curved however, for the particular application for best performance. It's worth doing and DOES make a HUGE difference.
The stock or OEM advance curve is a compromise and mule built by government contract, primarily so there is no engine knock when hauling a load of gravel to Kansas City, say. That's what trucks were built for.
For a little better acceleration and pep most people prefer a bit of a performance curve. Standard "recipe" is a little less mechanical (centrifugal) advance, a little more initial crank advance, and lighter weight springs that bring in the engine advance earlier in the RPMs.
If you do plan on lots of heavy hauling you might want to keep everything as is, advance wise. Aggressive advance curves on high compression engines may require high octane fuel as well.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
I don't think there would be any performance gain or difference per se. All things being equal, it's basically a scheme to lighten your wallet - performance coils, wires, etc. Technically either way - stock distributor w/ Pertronix module or a dedicated electronic ignition distributor should be identical, performance wise, imo.
A "new" or old distributor needs to be curved however, for the particular application for best performance. It's worth doing and DOES make a HUGE difference.
The stock or OEM advance curve is a compromise and mule built by government contract, primarily so there is no engine knock when hauling a load of gravel to Kansas City, say. That's what trucks were built for.
For a little better acceleration and pep most people prefer a bit of a performance curve. Standard "recipe" is a little less mechanical (centrifugal) advance, a little more initial crank advance, and lighter weight springs that bring in the engine advance earlier in the RPMs.
If you do plan on lots of heavy hauling you might want to keep everything as is, advance wise. Aggressive advance curves on high compression engines may require high octane fuel as well.
A "new" or old distributor needs to be curved however, for the particular application for best performance. It's worth doing and DOES make a HUGE difference.
The stock or OEM advance curve is a compromise and mule built by government contract, primarily so there is no engine knock when hauling a load of gravel to Kansas City, say. That's what trucks were built for.
For a little better acceleration and pep most people prefer a bit of a performance curve. Standard "recipe" is a little less mechanical (centrifugal) advance, a little more initial crank advance, and lighter weight springs that bring in the engine advance earlier in the RPMs.
If you do plan on lots of heavy hauling you might want to keep everything as is, advance wise. Aggressive advance curves on high compression engines may require high octane fuel as well.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 14
From: Vale, NC
I'm not trying to advertise for ProComp because I walked into mine totally blind. But, I just checked fuel mileage and it was 16.33mpg with the new dist and I was usually just below 15 in my run around driving. It runs great too. I bought an extra ignition module.to throw in the glove box since that is the piece I would suspect could fail. It was $14.
So, you have tons of options and probably just want a simple answer. If I was doing it again a.d had the money to spare, I would follow the advice of these other guys! :-)
If money was tight, I would not hesitate to swing the bat on a less expensive route if you are not building some sort of performance rig.
Just my..02
So, you have tons of options and probably just want a simple answer. If I was doing it again a.d had the money to spare, I would follow the advice of these other guys! :-)
If money was tight, I would not hesitate to swing the bat on a less expensive route if you are not building some sort of performance rig.
Just my..02