While the aluminum cab and bed of the newer F-Series trucks may be more resistant to corrosion than steel, it certainly will not keep the frame from rusting. And frame rust is often what eventually takes a truck off the road. Currently, Ford uses an E-coat paint on their frames while GM uses a wax-based coating, each has their advantages and disadvantages (I personally think the wax is better, IF properly maintained) but in areas where large amounts of salt and calcium chloride is used significant rust damage can still happen in alarmingly fast in relatively new trucks. I have also heard of bad cases of frame rust in the gulf coast states near the beaches (see photos). What is infurliating is that Ford has a solution but does not offer it to F-Series truck customers. The thing is U.P.S. was experiencing severe frame rust on their 'Package Cars' in service in the Northeast. Naturally their aluminum and fiberglass bodies were unaffected, but frame corrosion was starting to cost U.P.S. money in repairs and early vehicle retirements. Their solution was to reqire their Package Car chassis suppliers (at the time Freightliner and Workhorse primarily) to galvanize their frames. At first the chassis manufacturers resisted, but U.P.S. represented so much business the chassis manufacturers complied (Freightliner found a Canadian company that could galvanized a truck chassis). Some years ago Ford wanted to sell U.P.S. some F-53 chassis and Ford complied as well, no galvanzing-no sale! So, why doesn't Ford offer a galvanized frame as an option on the Super Duty? Even if the option was a couple of thousand dollars I think they would have plenty of interested customers, particularly in the Northeast. Make it part of the snow plow prep. package. An aluminum cab and bed on a galvanized chassis truly would be a corrosion-resistant truck. Take a look at this 2016 F-150 reportedly from Florida:

https://www.reddit.com/r/f150/commen...rust/#lightbox

 

I would have gladly paid extra for a galvanized or otherwise rust "proofed" frame. I keep my stuff as long as it will let me, and living in Michigan it is a chore.

 

I live in New England.
PLENTY of corrosive chemicals used here.
My 2013 F 250 has been Krown sprayed every year since new. My frame and even the leaf springs are still factory black. Best $175 a year you can spend for your truck.

 

I've used Woolwax, Fluid Film, NH Oil Undercoatings with good success. The only real down side to these products is that you have to reapply them every year but they wick water away from the frame instead of trapping it between the treatment and the frame which older undercoating treatments will often do. If you don't mind getting dirty, you can apply them yourself for $100-$175 per treatment.

 

I hear you with the galvanized frame option, but don't think that will ever happen. Ford will save even $1 where it can, it adds up when selling millions of trucks a year. This is the reason why aftermarket solutions exist. Things can be done better than mass produced and value engineered, however the cost is not worth the benefit to the mass market. So, the aftermarket comes up with (usually) better solutions for those that see value in paying the extra.

To the actual frame rust problem you bring up, there are coatings you can use but have to applied and then touched up annually. The down side is every thing is coated in the goo, but better than working on rusted parts. As to the reddit post, no way that truck was not exposed to salt spray. To me these are the same type people that do not change their oil for 70,000 miles. Either maintain your car or trade every couple of years. (this is the exact reason I do not buy used)

 

Thoughts;

- I prefer the e-coat over the wax and I think it's a better rust preventative measure

- something else went on with that F150 IMO (flood truck?); I've got a small fleet of trucks, all three brands and none have ever had any rust treatment whatsoever......they usually get retired at 300,000 - 400,000 miles and none have had any structural frame rust....and yes, they "salt" the roads here in the winter

- galvanized frames would be awesome and I'd gladly pay extra for it but it's never gonna happen; most people just don't know about the advantages and/or don't care and would spend the money on leather or sunroofs instead. I have a 1978 Toyota FJ40 with a 10ga 5052 Aqualu aluminum body (like my Superduty 'cept 10 times thicker!) and I'm thinking of taking it apart and having the frame hot dip galvanized......talk about the ultimate in protection; you could park it in the ocean and it would be fine!

Not going to worry about it on my Super Duty's but if I ever do, I'll get some rust treatment applied every few years.


Cheers,
Dave

 

Wool wax lasts a few years without reapplication. It will only come off with a high pressure wash. A garden hose will move it around, but wont remove it. It also gathers road dust so there is this thick covering after a few months. It also creeps. It's better than the others due to it's thickness and longevity. Mechanics hate it though as it is messy to work around.

 

You have to remember that E-coat is not a product, it's a painting process. You can E-coat the cheapest paint or primer available, and the protection will only be that good. In fact, one of the reasons manufacturers like E-coat is that while the process does give excellent coverage it goes on very thin and less paint is used.

 

Thanks to our boxed frames now, they will rust from the inside out.

 

I like cosmoline rp-342. Fluid film is also good but keep it away from rubber and it does tend to pick up more dirt.

I tend to think your frame got something on it...something that stripped the factory applied corrosion protection and/or ate metal. That is extreme rust in a localized area. Bare metal will last better than that if you're not in the salt. That kind of rust is something you see if someone left fertilizer laying on metal. Your cross member (under the transfer case) and possibly the front suspension look affected as well.

 

my 2019 is starting to show frame rust.

mainly on welds and edges

power washed everything with salt away.

after the wash drys, I spray rust spots with rust converter

after two days of the rust converter curing....spray paint with rustolium black semi gloss

only thing to watch out for is not to spray anything near the output shaft seals and gear box seals

the water based rust converter converts better than the spray can version. but the water based will take a brush, pump up bottle, or solvent gun to apply

 

One thing about E-coat is the entire frame is dipped in so paint goes everywhere, inside and out. Of course if there is scale from welding, or other dirt it wont stick. The bodies are also dunked in so it protects from the inside as well. Too bad they don't use a more water resistant paint so that body corners and rockers wouldnt rust out. But if nothing rusted or corroded, no one would need to replace anything.