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Just rebuilt the engine new lifters push rods and rocker arms and started ticking after running for 5 minutes gets a little quite at idle but is loud when reving the gas should I tare it down and inspect or let it idle for awhile and see if it goes away I was told by my machine shop to put lifters in dry so I didt soak them but did dump oil in them before sealing the engine I thought that was stupid going by what I read online people usally soak them but though he knew more then me any help is greatly appreciated
There is a slight exhaust leak but it sounds like it’s coming from the valve cover / top of the engine and it was running smooth untill it started ticking that’s why I belive it’s a collapsed lifter not letting the valve open because on first start it was quite and running smooth gona recheck timing as I did move distributor to remove a bad tfi moudule but I marked it and it’s in the exact spot it was so doubt that’s why it’s rough but I’ll double check seems like a valve/ lifter issue to me but everything is new is it common for new flat tapper lifters to be bad ?
I'll throw in my 2 cents here. No need to lube the insides of the lifters, BUT they do have a special lube to put on the flat bottom of the lifters. They claim this is very important especially on new lifters.
When I assemble an engine I always check the clearance of the rocker arms to the valve stem. In order to do this the lifters have to be bled down and the engine positioned so so for a certain set of valves. If the clearance is not in certain specs the only adjustment is either a shorter or longer push rod. I don't know how readily available these different length push rods are anymore.
If the push rods are too short you will get noise, if they are too long the engine will run rough. I don't know if this may be part of your problem or not, but thought I would point it out.
I did use assembly grease on the cam but not really the bottom of the lifters I did put some in the top of each lifter though and **** ok ya i definitely didt check u might be on to something there I’ll go back in and recheck the length just figured since I wasn’t changing anything it should be good but heard of one push rod being a different length or what ever it may be good call
What part number camshaft? Did you/they install a roller cam or flat tappet?
**** I don’t know the part number or brand but it is a flat tappet Ik that and supposedly a torque cam for towing from what I was told by the machine shop and yes they installed it I just installed heads lifters and push rods
I did install a Melling high pressure oil pump and the lifter brand are melling also push rods also I believe the noise isn’t there when the truck first starts it sounds quite but once I give it a rev the ticking starts and only on the driver side valve cover I think I’m gona just open it up pull lifters inspect and replace the 4 on the side and soak the 4 before install and check pre load talked to another buddy and he said I could check the lash by setting it to zero lash then it should tourqe to spec with In 1/2 turn to 1 full turn if not the push rod is to long does that sound like a good plan or should I try an oil additive before pulling it apart
**** I don’t know the part number or brand but it is a flat tappet Ik that and supposedly a torque cam for towing from what I was told by the machine shop and yes they installed it I just installed heads lifters and push rods
I hope they picked a cam that will work with the Speed Density computer system. If not, it will never run right. They should have suggested that you install a roller cam.
Originally Posted by F150 89
I did install a Melling high pressure oil pump and the lifter brand are melling also push rods also I believe the noise isn’t there when the truck first starts it sounds quite but once I give it a rev the ticking starts and only on the driver side valve cover I think I’m gona just open it up pull lifters inspect and replace the 4 on the side and soak the 4 before install and check pre load talked to another buddy and he said I could check the lash by setting it to zero lash then it should tourqe to spec with In 1/2 turn to 1 full turn if not the push rod is to long does that sound like a good plan or should I try an oil additive before pulling it apart
No reason to install a high pressure pump. The OEM heads have pedestal mount rocker arms. There is no adjusting valve lash. You can only torque the bolt to specs.
I hope they picked a cam that will work with the Speed Density computer system. If not, it will never run right. They should have suggested that you install a roller cam.
No reason to install a high pressure pump. The OEM heads have pedestal mount rocker arms. There is no adjusting valve lash. You can only torque the bolt to specs.
yes I was worried about that also I did tell them speed density but the shop wasn’t that good first time using them and I told them to go .30 on the bore and he ****ed up and went .60 over so I wouldt put it past them not using the right cam but at first start the truck feels like it’s running mint throttle is super responsive so it does run right untill the lifter either loses pressure or what ever it’s doing is it possible I just got a bad lifter that won’t hold pressure how common is that because it only sounds like one is doing it and I removed the rockers and reinstalled them and check that they were seated correctly and same thing so it’s gotta be the lifter making the noise
What cam and lifter do you recommend I’ll change it if there is a better more reliable option rather be safe then sorry just a weird thing this truck has been kicking my *** with stupid little issues
Did they not give you the cam card? Use the search feature on here for roller cams. There are a lot of threads some of the older threads might have cams that are no longer made.
…or once the engine starts to warm up and go into closed loop mode it cannot compensate for the cam.
Did they not give you the cam card? Use the search feature on here for roller cams. There are a lot of threads some of the older threads might have cams that are no longer made.
…or once the engine starts to warm up and go into closed loop mode it cannot compensate for the cam.
they did but I misplaced it I’ll find it when I get home Ik I have it some where and on will do didt know I could change them to roller thought it had to be a roller block from the start
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