Also here is a pic from when I installed the lifters figured I’d post it incase u guys see something wrong

 

I hope you checked the exhaust manifold mounting to the head before pulling things apart. An exhaust leak at the manifold flange can sound like a lifter tick and may be easier to fix than pulling the intake.

 

I didt take anything apart yet but I sealed the manifold with red rtv to the head I’ll double check but its weird how when it starts ticking it runs like **** and when it’s not there it’s running grate at first start no tick until I either give it a rev or once it gets warm it seams but it loud and iv stuck a stethoscope to the valve cover and manifold and i hear it in the valve cover and it sounds like chatter with the stethoscope more then an exhaust tick but deff gona run it and spray soap and warter when it’s cold and see if I got leaks

 

Here is the rocker arm to valve stem clearance I mentioned under #18. It is LIFTERS COLLAPSED 0.112 to 0.172. A feelers gauge is probably the best thing to use, You have to add the different blades together until you get 112 and 172. If the clearance is anywhere between there you are good. The 112 should be the minimum and should fit, the 172 should not, or barely, fit.

You were going to replace the lifters on the driver side. New they will be bled down. You will need to look at the old ones to make sure the bottom is not damaged, along with the cam. If they do not look damaged you may want to add the white cam lube to the bottom of the new ones. (I see that is what they used on the cam lobes in the Haynes manual).

I see under #31 you posted a picture with the intake manifold removed. That would be a good time to check the rocker arm to valve stem clearance as you can see which lifters are all the way down where they need to be to check the rocker arm to valve stem clearance. Just use the big nut on the front of the crankshaft to turn the engine to get the different lifters all the way down. Don't use the starter as you may pump up the lifters. Sorry if it sounded like I was trying to tell you things you already knew.

If you have questions now or later just ask.

 

This is the lobe the bad lifter was it ate the lifter pretty bad lifter looks like it’s locked up won’t pump at all do u think I can put a new lifter and save the cam or replace it it feels smooth not bad gouging just looks alittle scuffed

 

This is a good lobe next to it for comparison

 

I think it would be OK. If there are any sharp little high spots I would try and file them off. Of course there will be some metal particles in the oil, Hopefully the oil filter will catch them. Is that the only bad one of the 16? I hope some other members give their opinions.

 

ya it don’t look as bad as the lifter at all I can feel slight roughness with my finger nail but it don’t catch it like a gouge would just feels slight rough looks more like metal transfer from the lifter then the cab being damaged it still has its shape from what I can tell

 

This is a video of them also can see a little more and yes it’s only one out of the 16 seams to me just got a bad lifter and didt check before installing dumb mistake lesson learned but ya the plunger has no play feels locked up

 

The cam lobes look to be to the side of the hole and not in the center. Maybe they are supposed to be that way but I don't remember seeing that before. If you take a large screwdriver and stick it in the hole do the lobes push over?

 

Oh wow good catch didt even realize that that does look off I didt check for play but I will when I get home from work iv heard of flat tapper cams being slightly off center for the lifter to be able to spin but that looks off by a lot the one lob looks almost perfectly center but the bad one looks way off Mabey that’s what caused the lifter to fail ?

 

and thank you so much for this really appreciate it if u have an idea of what a good speed density camshaft would be also for alittle more power with out affecting the speed density system let me know would like to put the biggest cam possible that will work with the stock speed density computer and trust me I don’t know **** just a kid with a hobby that likes to build cars any info is greatly appreciated sorry if im asking dumb questions

 

Sorry I can't help you with the extra power, I just like to leave engines stock. They will usually last much longer and be more reliable if left to operate the way the factory engineers designed them. Just my opinion.

 

Use the search function in here to find cam threads. Get ready to do a lot of reading…..

 

will do do u think I should replace the cam from the pictures of run it ?