Fuel gauge problem
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Trailering
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 22
Likes: 3
Fuel gauge problem
I am in the process of reserecting my late fathers truck a1981 Ford f100 with a 300 6 cylinder that's been sitting for about 8 years. I finally got it running half decent thanks in large part to the members here.
Problem I'm having now is the fuel gauge is stuck on E. I replaced both the fuel tank and the sending unit about a year before it was parked. Is it possible corroded wires/ connections? I really don't want to have to drop the fuel tank
Thanks
Problem I'm having now is the fuel gauge is stuck on E. I replaced both the fuel tank and the sending unit about a year before it was parked. Is it possible corroded wires/ connections? I really don't want to have to drop the fuel tank
Thanks
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,861
Likes: 4,106
From: Angier, NC
It could be anything but this is a quick way to test if sender is working or if it something else.
You said "tank" meaning 1 so not dual and that makes it a little easier.
With a test light turn the key on and at the plug to the sender 1 wire should be ground the other power.
Now what checking for power the light will blink this is normal and a good thing, no blinking not good.
You can also ground that blinking wire and if everything from that point to the gauge is good the gauge should go to full.
Do not do this grounding for too long as it can hurt the gauge.
If not blinking / power you will have to work from there forward till you get power.
Did you check the fuse and test or change it? Do you have oil & temp gauges and do they work?
Let us know how you make out.
Dave ----
You said "tank" meaning 1 so not dual and that makes it a little easier.
With a test light turn the key on and at the plug to the sender 1 wire should be ground the other power.
Now what checking for power the light will blink this is normal and a good thing, no blinking not good.
You can also ground that blinking wire and if everything from that point to the gauge is good the gauge should go to full.
Do not do this grounding for too long as it can hurt the gauge.
If not blinking / power you will have to work from there forward till you get power.
Did you check the fuse and test or change it? Do you have oil & temp gauges and do they work?
Let us know how you make out.
Dave ----
Thread Starter
|
Trailering
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 22
Likes: 3
It could be anything but this is a quick way to test if sender is working or if it something else.
You said "tank" meaning 1 so not dual and that makes it a little easier.
With a test light turn the key on and at the plug to the sender 1 wire should be ground the other power.
Now what checking for power the light will blink this is normal and a good thing, no blinking not good.
You can also ground that blinking wire and if everything from that point to the gauge is good the gauge should go to full.
Do not do this grounding for too long as it can hurt the gauge.
If not blinking / power you will have to work from there forward till you get power.
Did you check the fuse and test or change it? Do you have oil & temp gauges and do they work?
Let us know how you make out.
Dave ----
You said "tank" meaning 1 so not dual and that makes it a little easier.
With a test light turn the key on and at the plug to the sender 1 wire should be ground the other power.
Now what checking for power the light will blink this is normal and a good thing, no blinking not good.
You can also ground that blinking wire and if everything from that point to the gauge is good the gauge should go to full.
Do not do this grounding for too long as it can hurt the gauge.
If not blinking / power you will have to work from there forward till you get power.
Did you check the fuse and test or change it? Do you have oil & temp gauges and do they work?
Let us know how you make out.
Dave ----
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,266
Likes: 1,230
Before dropping your tank to check for power, use a mechanics mirror to look at the connector and sender. Maybe the plug came off? If not you can test with the bulb by making the connection while looking in the mirror. It is challenging but can be done.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,861
Likes: 4,106
From: Angier, NC
No other fuse box and if the other gauges are working then I would say it is good.
The test lights I have, have a sharp point and can go thru the insulation to test for power.
It is always best to test at the plug, I had a plug that was bad at the contacts but good at the wire just before the plug.
But if you can check for power as close to the plug then be it and hope the plug is good.
If you dont get power close to the plug there is a plug under the brake booster / master that connects the main harness to the frame rail harness that run to the rear.
You can pull it apart and check for power from the main harness side before having to pull the gauge panel if you dont have power there.
Good luck.
Dave ----
The test lights I have, have a sharp point and can go thru the insulation to test for power.
It is always best to test at the plug, I had a plug that was bad at the contacts but good at the wire just before the plug.
But if you can check for power as close to the plug then be it and hope the plug is good.
If you dont get power close to the plug there is a plug under the brake booster / master that connects the main harness to the frame rail harness that run to the rear.
You can pull it apart and check for power from the main harness side before having to pull the gauge panel if you dont have power there.
Good luck.
Dave ----
Thread Starter
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Trailering
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 22
Likes: 3
Thanks, I'll give it a try
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