Just bought this 2020 XLT and I don't know all the controls yet. My latest problem is the battery, which appears to be new, goes dead overnight. The first time it did I thought maybe I'd left the lights on, so I rotated the light switch over to Off and locked the door. Hadn't locked the door the night before. So this morning the truck won't crank again and There's a note on the display that says something like turn the system off to save the battery. What system? Is there something obvious I'm not doing?
Here's diagnostics so far:
Voltage with engine running - 14.7VDC
Voltage drop between cable clampis and battery posts - Less than 5mV
This means the alternator's working and the battery terminals are clean.
I have upfitter switches (what are they for?) but they are all turned off.
What's my next step? It seems that I have a drain on the battery that doesn't stop when the ignition switch is off. Where do I start looking? There are so many plastic covers under the hood that it's confusing.
So where do I start? Is it possible there's something wrong with the ignition switch?
Thanks,
R.

 

You're missing something from that "turn system off" message.
So many possibilities, these trucks are full of systems that can draw down a battery.

Upfitter switches are for any accessory add-on that needs switchable power, I have load lights and the electric valve for my aux fuel tank on two of them in my truck. But, in normal factory form, the power to them is off with the ignition switch.

 

When I unlock with the remote, open the door, climb in and insert the key I see:
First the Dark screen with the big Ford blue oval.

Then I get a blank light screen and across the top: System Off to Save Battery

In the center of the screen: Please turn ignition off or start engine

On the lower edge of the screen there is a bar graph with a blue bar moving across the screen. Looks like the downloading indicator on a computer.

Right now I have the battery on a charger to avoid damaging it further.

R.

 

Is this the OEM battery or a recent replacement? I'm assuming one battery and a gas engine as you mention it in singular tense.

 

Digging into Ford's Battery Management System, I see that my battery is probably dead. Oh, well, off to the parts store!
R.

 

Yes it's possible that you need a new battery - wouldn't surprise me in the least if it's the factory battery, they only last 3-4 years now with all the battery management systems and everything with Keep Alive Memory sucking on the battery constantly.

If you didn't already, make sure to step up your CCA's - I prefer 950's but anything above the factory 700/750 is better than nothing, I have better luck with more amps.

IF THE PROBLEM CONTINUES, I would suggest getting a set of wiring schematics and pulling all your fuses with the ignition off, and putting an amp draw meter on the battery. Then plug every fuse back in, one at a time, watching the amp draw. I don't know what the 'normal' draw is with the ignition off but I'm sure it's a low value, and if you see a spike in the draw you can focus on that circuit to find the culprit. Again, this is only if the issue persists - if it goes away with the new battery, then I wouldn't worry about it.

 

Also reset the BMS when installing a new battery may help. There are videos on YouTube how to do it.

 

Reminds me of the battery fiasco while out camping in 2022 , with the new to me 2021F250 6.7L that I purchased with 27k. Soon as it got dark and the temps dipped while parked next to our Outback TT in a packed campground.....the truck alarm goes off; the door ajar red icon is on, the bed interior lamp on and the bed lamp!? This goes on for the next 3 nights . Very embarrassing to say the least. Once I get back to Scottsdale I had both batteries replaced which were bad underload. Everything is cleared and working properly. Than I start getting; a door ajar alarm warning on my smartphone with the Ford Pass App late into the night early morning? I'm thinking some as* hat is roaming around looking to break into vehicles which was and did happen from time to time. Wasn't that thankfully. I had the rear passenger door sensor replaced and that took care of that frickin ordeal!

 

I was sick of the corrosion coming from the tops of my '22 F-350 6.7L batteries, so I gave them to a coworker with bad '19 SD batteries. The new AGM were installed by FORD hastily with all corrosion left intact. When I complained to the service writer, he agreed to take the installation charge off my bill. I would have to set an appointment two to three weeks later and pay for the cleanup. I'll do it myself thank you.

Six months later, it's winter '24-''25 and 13°F with the engine block heater unplugged - oops. Truck didn't remote start and would not unlock with fob. I used the key and got in and could hear relays clicking. The dash was flickering. I put the key in the ignition and turned to start, there was a click and then all silence and dark. Batteries were dead. I drove it 52 miles home the previous day without issues.

I started my '97 Suburban and turned it around so that I could use it to start the FORD. It refused to start and was still acting weird. I let it charge for ten minutes and when I opened the door the alarm went off with only one weak horn tone. I turned the key on and then off to silence the alarm.

After another five minutes, I was having to shut down the Suburban due to it had a blown intake gasket, but I gave the FORD one last ditch effort. It started reluctantly and after removing jumper cables and shutting off the Suburban I put the FORD in reverse. It rolled a foot and then a big amber wrench 🔧 appeared. It would not rev up nor would it move.

I read all the codes with my code reader while the truck warmed up. There must have been thirty codes. I had a hunch this was all battery related and cleared the codes. Since then it happened again two days later when it was 17 degrees and since the first episode the trans shifts like absolute crap, so I need to preform a trans relearn.

Well, since we're in a proxy war with Russia, I can't get my Forscan lifetime license to work, zero support and can't pay for another, so I'm stuck and could not even program my TPMS much less anything else. Truck still shifts like crap even putting it into D is like getting hit by a bucket loader. At least the batteries have decided not to leave me stranded.

These FORD trucks are an electronic nightmare compared to old trucks. Hands down! It's now monsoon season in KY which will change back to summer then winter freeze all in the same week. I blame climate change on Mother Nature being addicted to crack! I'm driving my older trucks more and more with an appreciation. I guess I'll start with the battery terminals and then by the spare tire connector. What a witch hunt for corrosion!

I already lost a battle with the '25 Maverick's nearly self driving AI when my oily work boot slipped. I got to drive it for only three days and have to wait for three months plus for parts.




I'm told they can't repair one parking sensor connector and I am waiting on the entire front electrical harness assembly. I guess techs nowadays can only unlpug connectors and don't know how to repair a broken wire and re-pin a connector for a parking sensor. Pitiful.

It is needless to say, that I repaired all my old trucks so they are road worthy. I keep the F-350 around to tow my RV and commute 104 miles daily to work and home. Perhaps the Maverick can become more than a chicken roost in May? 🤔 I wonder if the Chevy 2500 can handle the RV? I see why my FORD SD lost 65% value in less than three years while my old trucks increased in value. Interesting indeed!

 

There's a lesson to be learned here. If you own a Ford super duty and it runs weird, check your battery. If that's good, then you get to check all your electrical connections. That should keep you busy for a few months.