Hey all I have a 95 F350 with the 7.5. Overall driving fine, but recently got a few hiccups when driving and has died a few times. When I say hiccups it’s a pretty good surge, feels like it wants to die.

When driving, it’s died once when sitting at a red light. Turned the key off and restarted and no issues. Once when driving around 50mph. Totally died and restarted on its own, then no further issues.

KOEO: 111
CM: 212
KOER: 111

Where should I start?

 

Check the color of your ICM, I had a code 212 and I changed the color from gray to black and the code went away. Not saying that's the problem on your truck cause it's a diesel but it was on my truck 94 f150 5.0 if you go into the Google search bar on this site and enter your trucks current problem you'll find a lot of helpful information on past threads......

 

Incorrect. The OP has a 7.5L gas engine.

 

The prior post is partially correct, this vintage truck is known to have the wrong replacement Ignition Control Module (ICM) installed because most parts manuals are incorrect including Ford. So the quick check is verify you have a black Ford/Motorcraft ICM installed. Having the wrong one will trigger Code 212. If you have any color aftermarket ICM, they can also cause random stalling and Code 212.

Given the sudden onset of the symptom and Code 212 I suspect the code is valid, i.e. missing IDM signal. The computer knows it sent a signal to fire the coil via the SPOUT signal. If the engine dies, there is no resultant IDM pulse so Code 212 is triggered.

 

My mistake on the engine read the numbers wrong...7.5 not 7.3....

 

The IDM is black and looks original. Dude to the sudden onset im guessing it’s going bad?

 

The black CCD remote mount ICMs rarely go bad. Worth a look to verify the thermal paste on the back of it is not dried up. I suggest to replace whatever is there with a good thermal paste. Plenty of discussion regarding dielectric grease versus thermal paste. Heck even peanut butter works, but does not last long. I use thermal paste on ICMs, I save the dielectric grease for spark plug boots. Your choice....

If the issue remains then you have to figure out if you are losing power to the ignition or fuel system. Since cycling the key seems to restore operation that does start to point to a failing ignition switch located near the base of the column. Pre-1992 versions are known to literally fall apart over time. The later versions tend to be more robust.

 

Thats a good point considering it’s been warmer outside since this has started.

If it was the ignition, would that cause the hiccups while driving or it to restart on its own when driving?

 

Ignition switch or coil connection come to mind. The connectors at the coil are known to corrode or become loose over time.


I am referring to the coil connectors on the middle right side of the photo below:

 

One of those wires was a little loose. Haven’t test drove it yet though

 

Do the pinpoint tests for code 212 in the PCED
Do the wiggle testing on the harness
Inspect the processor capacitors
The color of the module is not always the problem