Hi, Went down and used some carbon black to enhance these numbers. The numbers to the left of the casting numbers is D2UF. extremely faint on the U and F. I took photos and measured the flats across where the oil pump shaft fits in. measures .340 across the flats. Thought I read where size of oil pump shaft determines 240 or 300 cubic inch engines. Correct?

 

Looked up distributors so 240 and 300 engines used the same distributor as stated on line. And it lists for 1972 in a pick up truck.. I misquoted between flats is .311 which is 5/16 inches. So oil pump shaft will fit the 300 engine.Guess this what the distributor is. Now is there a bushing kit available before I pull the distributor apart? And does this unit have a 2 piece type with a long bushing near the the top and a short one on the bottom. Getting close and thank you.

 

Hi All, Got the worn distributor bushing out. After much searching I have found a new replacement for it. If you need one go to Mustangs ETC. site. I called their tech line today and they make a bushing for the 240,300 cubic inch distributor. On their website it is listed as the upper bushing C5AZ-12120-A. Cost is $26.00 and change plus shipping. Hope this helps others looking to rebuild their distributors. Thanks.

 

Back when I worked in a Ford dealership in the late 70s doing strictly tuneup work and I was working on cars with point distributors I would remove the points and condenser and all the spark plugs.
They I world clean up the breaker plates and make sure the pivot point was not worn out, add a drop of oil to the little "wick" in the center of the distributor shaft and put some cam lube on the cam.
Then I would add a little more cam lube to the rubbing block of the points.
I would then install the points and leave the screws just a tiny bit loose, attach a dwell meter and crank the engine over with a starter button and used my screwdriver to t adjust the points dwell while the engine was spinning over until I got the proper dwell, sinch down the screws and then double check the dwell.
If the specs for let say for a V8 was 28-32° I would set the dwell at 26°.
I would do this prior to installing the spark plugs because the engine turned over faster and more even getting a more accurate dwell setting.
Then I would generally set the ignition timing about 4 degrees advanced past specs.
The reason I did this was as the points wear the ignition times gradually starts to retard from where it was set which allowed the adjustments to stay within specs for a longer period of time which kept the car running great for a longer period of time.
I always adjusted the spark plug gap at the outer limit.
Did you know that at wide open (WOT) throttle your spark plug gap can increase an additional 0.005"?

I know this doesn't help with identifying your distributor.

 

The original bushing material was 1144 Steel. Highly machinable and suited for a distributor bushing material. I requested what the new bushing is made from. As soon as I hear back I will report it. Thanks.