Wow, it's been a long time, my last post was in 2008!
I've started working on reviving my F-350 Camper Special.
One of the things I want to do is put a higher output alternator on it so I can install my inverter.
What are my options, factory or aftermarket?
I did a lot of searching and got confused with all the possibilities.
One was $900+ and that's a bit out of my price range...lol
TIA, Paul

 

Powermaster. Or dual batteries and alternators. For 250 amps and up. I think powermaster has up to 400 amps. And premier power welders if you want to straight have a welder built in.

 

How big of an inverter are we talking here?

 

If you're lucky there is an alternator repair shop nearby and they can wind you 120 amps plus out of a stock unit. For a good price. But this might be a old head thing. That's like double.

 

Depending on your needs, a ford 3G 130A alternator is a direct bolt in, with just a little wiring and you have a high output alternator.
you can get junkyard 3G for ~$50

 

X2 see if you can find a old school starter alternator shop to work it over. There might be a HD 70 Amp one available, think fire truck/wrecker/tow truck/.

 

Some of the camper Specials came with a high output alternator due to dual battery set up with a possible camper battery.. I believe it was the 70 amp. I had the alternator shop bump mine up to 100 amps.

 

My inverter is a 3000 watt unit.

 

My inverter is a 3000 watt unit.

 

You need 150 amps just for the inverter. 60 for the rest of truck. Plus headroom. So 250 amps. MAXPOWER and maybe a capacitor to reduce ripple.

 

Thanks for all the replies, I have some research to do now.
I'll post back on what alternator I decided to go with.

 

Think about what you are going to spin it with. I couldn’t get a single v belt tight enough. Dual belts work but I’m only sending 95 amps.

 

Darn, I was hoping you were going to say it is a 150 watt inverter.

Math time:

3,000W / 12V = 250A with no conversion losses

Let's say you have 10% conversion losses: 3,000W * 110% = 3,300W / 12V = 275A + 60A for normal truck stuff = 335A alternator

You might need to add a bulge to the hood for a giant alternator, or more reasonably just do double alternators.

Are you only going to use your 3,000 watt inverter to power a 300 watt thing? If so: 300W * 110% = 330W / 12V = 27.5A + 60A for normal truck stuff = 87.5A alternator

Much more reasonable.

 

Agree on the belts. You need at least two V belts with lots of wrap to spin this, but this is probably not enough. Ideally a 6-groove serpentine belt conversion would be the way to go here.

 

snow fighter or snow plow prep package would have a larger alternator, larger case as well, most of the time at idle a HO alternator is not very HO anyway until the rpms are increased, like a ambulance or police car have to idle up periodically. Furthermore, I have had very good luck over the years using a secondary battery for the inverter and what is called an isolation device wired into either ignition switch or stand alone switch and powered by chassis battery. With this system I can utilize my auxiliary battery with no concern of killing my chassis battery, periodically start and run engine to shore up batteries, and that system is working well in multiple applications, however in my situation we basically shut off almost entire load then drive to next location so demand is low and recharge can take place. I run a 1500w inverter, a heater, cooling fans, and lights, all on a 200 amp (give or take) alt. I have never run short on power unless something was malfunctioning. The auxiliary batteries seem to take a large load off of the final power produced. I do not demand 100% duty cycle either, so 3000w at what duty cycle as if you are over 75% duty cycle Then more amps would be mandatory, however if the 3000w is a surge periodically and continuous duty would be maybe 50-60% this could also become a contributing factor. I have used a solar panel to supplement charge as well and had OK success respectively. As previously stated, a large load alternator will often require a large belt shiv in order to obtain adequate surface area to not slip under load, unfortunately this becomes a secondary concern back to rpm/idle output as the larger diameter shiv means an entirely new consideration of under driven vs over driven for RPM of said accessory and output at lower speeds reflects this characteristic as well, meaning that a 300 amp alt. needing a 4" shiv to turn it vs a 200 amp needing a 2.5" shiv to turn is 7.85" vs 12.56" circumference and that is equating to a final RPM significantly different meaning what is your ACTUAL output going to equate to at a given RPM, Or in terminology of a 200 amp might reach capacity at 1200 engine RPM where at 1200 engine RPM a 300 amp is rotating 50% (give or take) less rpm meaning that at a given RPM the 200 amp might be outperforming the 300 amp until a larger/faster RPM range is selected, at which the 300a would then overtake the 200a, All considerations good luck.