Recently, i've had some trouble getting her started. Started a few times for me, but now it's crank and no start, even after plugging up the block heater. Thought it was the cold weather, but started thinking it was the glow plugs. Installed new ones last night and still no start. From what ive seen in the forums so far, i should replace the gasket/wiring harness next. Ill ohm them out to double check.


What are some other possible issues or other things i should consider? Im still learning as problems arise.

Thank you for helping.

 

Make sure you have fuel, push in the shraeder valve at the fuel bowl.

Make sure you have more than a 1/4 tank. Shower head could be broken off and you could be sucking in air if at or below a 1/4 tank.

 

Have you checked for codes? CEL doesn’t always show on dash.

could be CPS. Does the tach move while cranking?

could be ICP. Unplug and try to start. If it starts when unplugged, time to replace that sensor.

like mentioned above, do you have fuel pressure? While cranking is there any smoke out the tail pipe? Drain fuel bowl and check filter. Check fuse for bowl heater.

before changing parts check codes and easy stuff. If you changed glow plugs did you verify glow plug relay works? Easy to do with test light and KOEO. I had a hard start when cold and it would crank, white smoke at tail pipe, but didn’t start. Ohm plugs, good. Then test lighted relay and nothing. When I touched both posts on relay with screw driver, I head click and it started. Replaced relay with white rogers.

hope this helps. Start with the easy stuff then work your way from there.

 

I have plenty of fuel, but I’ll double check. Front tank float has a hole so it doesn’t read, but has almost a full tank. No smoke out the tail. I’ll check all these things today and updated.

Keep in mind, I’m still green around the gills, so the acronyms are missed on me. I really do appreciate the help. If anything else comes to mind please let me know

 

Check the shraeder valve while cranking. Just cause u have fuel doesn't mean the pump is pulling it out of the tank, or there's a blockage between the tank and pump. The shower heads brake in pieces and can get sucked up into the lines.

 

really need a scanner to see whats going on and follow this chart
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ostic-faq.html

any smoke while cranking?
tach move?
oil pressure comes up fast?
tanks have 1/4 full?
engine oil full?

 

Do you have that flow chart for troubleshooting? That may help him. You got all the goodies

 

i posted a link to it

 

UPDATE:
I followed the flow chart. Stopped after unplugging the ICP and starting. I don't have any pressure gauges or a code reader, so I'm going to have to buy them. Any specific brand/website I should use?

Bowl had fuel, but I forgot to check the fuses. I'll do that tomorrow.
Tach moves while cranking.
No smoke from the tail.
My voltmeter died on me. Getting batteries tomorrow.

 

it started after unplugging the ICP?

 

Did not start. Forgot to mention.

 

Update:
Followed the flow chart.
no codes
IPR is 1.5-2 yo
Fuel bowl has fuel
Fuel pressure gauge read 0
Cleaned FPR Screen
0 fuel pressure again
crank- no start.
no leaks
Front tank is full, rear is less than a quarter. Maybe 1/8 left.

I guess next I’m replacing the pump or selector or valve switch.
As far as a clogged fuel line, who do I go about checking that?

 

Is the tach moving when cranking? Smoke from the exhaust while crankng (probably not with no fuel ptessure)? You should have fuel pressure since it's mechanical.

Could always try pulling the feed line off somewhere and trying to start off some fuel in a bucket. That'd eliminate anybpotential fuel tank/pickup issues.

 

Tach moves after the initial crank. Used to move in the process of cranking. No smoke at all.

I’ll give that a shot tomorrow and update.

 

Just confirming... you are checking fuel pressure while cranking? Mechanical pump, so engine needs to be cranking to have fuel pressure. Zero pressure with key on but not cranking is normal. No disrespect intended, but it's worth asking.

If no pressure while cranking... fuel pump or fuel supply, maybe both. Fuel pressure or supply won't set a code.

How comfortable are you that the truck is actually pulling fuel from the allegedly full front tank? Failed selector with switch set to front but actually pulling from the rear plus broken off showerhead in rear tank would mean you're sucking air. Might be worthwhile putting 4 gallons into the rear tank, to definitively get you above the typical 1/4 level for broken off showerhead sucking air. The full front tank... gage is reading at or near full, not way above full? Way above full indicates broken wire or failed sender, so maybe its empty, or below 1/4 tank and a broken-off showerhead?. I don't know if the selector valve typically fails with fuel supply from one tank but level from other, or both stuck on the same tank regardless of switch position. Bad instrumentation makes for frustrating diagnosis.

What do you mean by "Tach moves after the initial crank"? Does tach not move on first crank attempt, but does on following attempts?