I need help!
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 71
Likes: 2
Just confirming... you are checking fuel pressure while cranking? Mechanical pump, so engine needs to be cranking to have fuel pressure. Zero pressure with key on but not cranking is normal. No disrespect intended, but it's worth asking.
If no pressure while cranking... fuel pump or fuel supply, maybe both. Fuel pressure or supply won't set a code.
How comfortable are you that the truck is actually pulling fuel from the allegedly full front tank? Failed selector with switch set to front but actually pulling from the rear plus broken off showerhead in rear tank would mean you're sucking air. Might be worthwhile putting 4 gallons into the rear tank, to definitively get you above the typical 1/4 level for broken off showerhead sucking air. The full front tank... gage is reading at or near full, not way above full? Way above full indicates broken wire or failed sender, so maybe its empty, or below 1/4 tank and a broken-off showerhead?. I don't know if the selector valve typically fails with fuel supply from one tank but level from other, or both stuck on the same tank regardless of switch position. Bad instrumentation makes for frustrating diagnosis.
What do you mean by "Tach moves after the initial crank"? Does tach not move on first crank attempt, but does on following attempts?
If no pressure while cranking... fuel pump or fuel supply, maybe both. Fuel pressure or supply won't set a code.
How comfortable are you that the truck is actually pulling fuel from the allegedly full front tank? Failed selector with switch set to front but actually pulling from the rear plus broken off showerhead in rear tank would mean you're sucking air. Might be worthwhile putting 4 gallons into the rear tank, to definitively get you above the typical 1/4 level for broken off showerhead sucking air. The full front tank... gage is reading at or near full, not way above full? Way above full indicates broken wire or failed sender, so maybe its empty, or below 1/4 tank and a broken-off showerhead?. I don't know if the selector valve typically fails with fuel supply from one tank but level from other, or both stuck on the same tank regardless of switch position. Bad instrumentation makes for frustrating diagnosis.
What do you mean by "Tach moves after the initial crank"? Does tach not move on first crank attempt, but does on following attempts?
Pulling fuel from the front tank, not too confident. The float has a hole in it, so it reads empty. I’ve had issues before with starting it with the front tank selected, switch to the rear, fires right, most of the time. Starting from the front tank is only an issue, sometimes, though. Now there’s not even smoke coming out while cranking.
For the tach deal. I turn the key and it moves initially, then stops moving while continuously cranking.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 6,804
Likes: 703
From: Tobyhanma, PA
Sounds like you need to sort the tps sensor first. That should register while cranking (should be noticeably moving)
Once you regularly have that sorted then you shold make sure you are seeing the white smoke.
The pcm won't tell the injectors to fire if it doesn't see a minimum rpm.
Once you regularly have that sorted then you shold make sure you are seeing the white smoke.
The pcm won't tell the injectors to fire if it doesn't see a minimum rpm.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 71
Likes: 2
Sounds like you need to sort the tps sensor first. That should register while cranking (should be noticeably moving)
Once you regularly have that sorted then you shold make sure you are seeing the white smoke.
The pcm won't tell the injectors to fire if it doesn't see a minimum rpm.
Once you regularly have that sorted then you shold make sure you are seeing the white smoke.
The pcm won't tell the injectors to fire if it doesn't see a minimum rpm.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 71
Likes: 2
Is the tach moving when cranking? Smoke from the exhaust while crankng (probably not with no fuel ptessure)? You should have fuel pressure since it's mechanical.
Could always try pulling the feed line off somewhere and trying to start off some fuel in a bucket. That'd eliminate anybpotential fuel tank/pickup issues.
Could always try pulling the feed line off somewhere and trying to start off some fuel in a bucket. That'd eliminate anybpotential fuel tank/pickup issues.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 71
Likes: 2
That’s a great question. Thank you for asking. I have no idea what I am doing because I am still learning. So, this is new territory for me.
Pulling fuel from the front tank, not too confident. The float has a hole in it, so it reads empty. I’ve had issues before with starting it with the front tank selected, switch to the rear, fires right, most of the time. Starting from the front tank is only an issue, sometimes, though. Now there’s not even smoke coming out while cranking.
For the tach deal. I turn the key and it moves initially, then stops moving while continuously cranking.
Pulling fuel from the front tank, not too confident. The float has a hole in it, so it reads empty. I’ve had issues before with starting it with the front tank selected, switch to the rear, fires right, most of the time. Starting from the front tank is only an issue, sometimes, though. Now there’s not even smoke coming out while cranking.
For the tach deal. I turn the key and it moves initially, then stops moving while continuously cranking.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 6,804
Likes: 703
From: Tobyhanma, PA
My apologies, the CPS. Crank position sensor.
As for the lines, you'd need to pull the feed line. Should be the larger of the two lines coming up from the frame rail,, behind the AC and vacuum pump.
As for the lines, you'd need to pull the feed line. Should be the larger of the two lines coming up from the frame rail,, behind the AC and vacuum pump.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 71
Likes: 2
After pulling those, what are the next steps? Is it the line next to the return line?
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 6,804
Likes: 703
From: Tobyhanma, PA
If you can remove that feed line, then just find some hose and a fuel can/bucket with diesel and stick the hose in there. The mechicsl pump will pull from that tank the same as it would the tank.
You can leave the return line hooked up, it'll just route un used fuel back to the tank.
You can leave the return line hooked up, it'll just route un used fuel back to the tank.
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Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 71
Likes: 2
If you can remove that feed line, then just find some hose and a fuel can/bucket with diesel and stick the hose in there. The mechicsl pump will pull from that tank the same as it would the tank.
You can leave the return line hooked up, it'll just route un used fuel back to the tank.
You can leave the return line hooked up, it'll just route un used fuel back to the tank.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 664
Likes: 129
From: Columbia, MD
Whatever is going on with your tach needs to be fixed first. Powertrain control module needs to see minimum rpm (maybe 200?) or it won't command injectors to fire. Doesn't matter if you're getting fuel to the injectors (pump, tanks, selector valve, etc.), injectors won't inject fuel.
Cam Position Sensor (CPS), it's connector, and associated wiring are prime suspects. Wiggle, check, disassemble the connector / clean / reassemble. If you change the CPS, use only a genuine Ford or International part. Aftermarket sensors have a bad reputation.
I personally wouldn't mess with the fuel system until the tach is working properly.
You want to see a solid, sustained 200 RPM or so on the tach while cranking.
Another question just for confirmation... you are hearing the starter and engine turn over and keep turning appropriately when tach drops out? If the starter actually is losing RPM when cranking, might the tach be correct when it drops to zero? Weak batteries, bad starter cables and connections, weak starter? And even if starter IS turning, might you have bad spots on the flywheel or starter gear isn't engaging the flywheel? If that's the case, you should hear high-pitched grinding and squealing, and the starter spooling up to high RPM. I've had bad starter engagement grind off teeth on the flywheel, so it wouldn't turn the engine, AND a starter structurally fail and not engage the flywheel. But both of those made obvious "bad noises".
Cam Position Sensor (CPS), it's connector, and associated wiring are prime suspects. Wiggle, check, disassemble the connector / clean / reassemble. If you change the CPS, use only a genuine Ford or International part. Aftermarket sensors have a bad reputation.
I personally wouldn't mess with the fuel system until the tach is working properly.
You want to see a solid, sustained 200 RPM or so on the tach while cranking.
Another question just for confirmation... you are hearing the starter and engine turn over and keep turning appropriately when tach drops out? If the starter actually is losing RPM when cranking, might the tach be correct when it drops to zero? Weak batteries, bad starter cables and connections, weak starter? And even if starter IS turning, might you have bad spots on the flywheel or starter gear isn't engaging the flywheel? If that's the case, you should hear high-pitched grinding and squealing, and the starter spooling up to high RPM. I've had bad starter engagement grind off teeth on the flywheel, so it wouldn't turn the engine, AND a starter structurally fail and not engage the flywheel. But both of those made obvious "bad noises".
Cross-Country
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 90
Likes: 5
From: Commiefornia
I had the same issue a while ago with crank no start nothing seemed to be working my tach moved wasn't CPS wasn't IPR or ICP turned out it was my fuel bowl, schraeder valve, and fuel pump all just had a ton of gunk. Hope that helps.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 110
Likes: 46
From: New Hampshire
If the Shower Head, the filter pump strainer at the bottom of the fuel sending units in your fuel tank(s), need to be replaced (likely if never done since new) DO NOT USE Dorman strainers. They expand in diesel fuel and fall apart. Genuine trash! USE Ford OEM parts, crazy expensive for what it is, but the grief and aggravation to replace the Dorman part is a lot more.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 71
Likes: 2
Whatever is going on with your tach needs to be fixed first. Powertrain control module needs to see minimum rpm (maybe 200?) or it won't command injectors to fire. Doesn't matter if you're getting fuel to the injectors (pump, tanks, selector valve, etc.), injectors won't inject fuel.
Cam Position Sensor (CPS), it's connector, and associated wiring are prime suspects. Wiggle, check, disassemble the connector / clean / reassemble. If you change the CPS, use only a genuine Ford or International part. Aftermarket sensors have a bad reputation.
I personally wouldn't mess with the fuel system until the tach is working properly.
You want to see a solid, sustained 200 RPM or so on the tach while cranking.
Another question just for confirmation... you are hearing the starter and engine turn over and keep turning appropriately when tach drops out? If the starter actually is losing RPM when cranking, might the tach be correct when it drops to zero? Weak batteries, bad starter cables and connections, weak starter? And even if starter IS turning, might you have bad spots on the flywheel or starter gear isn't engaging the flywheel? If that's the case, you should hear high-pitched grinding and squealing, and the starter spooling up to high RPM. I've had bad starter engagement grind off teeth on the flywheel, so it wouldn't turn the engine, AND a starter structurally fail and not engage the flywheel. But both of those made obvious "bad noises".
Cam Position Sensor (CPS), it's connector, and associated wiring are prime suspects. Wiggle, check, disassemble the connector / clean / reassemble. If you change the CPS, use only a genuine Ford or International part. Aftermarket sensors have a bad reputation.
I personally wouldn't mess with the fuel system until the tach is working properly.
You want to see a solid, sustained 200 RPM or so on the tach while cranking.
Another question just for confirmation... you are hearing the starter and engine turn over and keep turning appropriately when tach drops out? If the starter actually is losing RPM when cranking, might the tach be correct when it drops to zero? Weak batteries, bad starter cables and connections, weak starter? And even if starter IS turning, might you have bad spots on the flywheel or starter gear isn't engaging the flywheel? If that's the case, you should hear high-pitched grinding and squealing, and the starter spooling up to high RPM. I've had bad starter engagement grind off teeth on the flywheel, so it wouldn't turn the engine, AND a starter structurally fail and not engage the flywheel. But both of those made obvious "bad noises".
I hear the starter and engine turning over after the tach drops. Tach drops before I stop cranking. I'll double check batteries. All connectors seem to be fine.
