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When starting cold, don’t put too much emphasis on the WTS light. Watch the voltmeter. You are correct when you notice the draw on the system. That is the glow plugs. When the voltage jumps up, they have cycled off. Then try to start it.
if you feel it still struggles to start, ohm out the glow plugs to see if they are still in good shape. You can also jump the two large lugs on the relay if the relay is not working.
i am going to say you have a few bad glow plugs if you have to cycle the key three times to start. what happen is cranking the engine ot see if it will kick builds heat in the cylinders. do it enough times and it will eventually fire off.
You may have weak batts or starter too. Consider the upgraded glow relay also, inexpensive enough.
Easy to test the commanded 'ON' time with a $4 test light clip the output to the small GPR terminal from PCM (should be pink) and poke the pointed end on Pos of batt. Key on, time it with a watch.
Agree 100% with all other suggestions. The WTS is simply a suggestion.
OK, once again I did a ****ty job explaining what I am seeing and what I have done.
Batteries, cables and starter and new and perform well.
I have ohm'd the glow plugs in the past, but will check them again.
I have done the test light thing on relay, functioning as expected (stays on like you would expect it to until engine temp is up enough).
So, if the glow plugs are powered up like the relay says they are, waiting 30 seconds (glow plugs still powered) results in no start. But if you cycle the key 3 times every 10 seconds, it starts.
Perhaps bad glow plugs that heat for a little bit but then fail? Then heat again when power is removed and applied again?
put a small led light in the cab one side to ground, one side to glow plug output of the relay.
if the light is on power is going to the glow plugs.
if cycling the key every ten seconds or so will get it to eventually start, you will either see power going to the glow plugs turn off, or the glow plugs are bad.
i see WTS light go out after around 15 seconds or so, but the glow plugs remain powered for up to 1 1/2 minutes depending how cold it is.
i also use a white rogers "stancor" relay. parts store chinesium relays are pure garbage anymore, i have seen 5 in a row bad out of the box.
Anything below 50 it struggles (when dead cold) unless plugged in.
What I am having trouble grasping is there is a good load on system with key on. Can see volts decrease when relay snap shut. Why would volts drop like a load is on, if glow plugs were defective?
My logic (could be faulty) is that if the glow plug is faulty it will be an open circuit, hence no load.
Following my perhaps faulty logic is that if all the glow plugs were faulty, there would be very little voltage drop (load) when relay engages.
OR...can a glow plugs still draw a ton of amps, bit not heat up? That seems counterintuitive...
put a small led light in the cab one side to ground, one side to glow plug output of the relay.
if the light is on power is going to the glow plugs.
if cycling the key every ten seconds or so will get it to eventually start, you will either see power going to the glow plugs turn off, or the glow plugs are bad.
i see WTS light go out after around 15 seconds or so, but the glow plugs remain powered for up to 1 1/2 minutes depending how cold it is.
i also use a white rogers "stancor" relay. parts store chinesium relays are pure garbage anymore, i have seen 5 in a row bad out of the box.
Very good advice. I am going to ohm out the GPs again.
Thinking about this, I should check voltage at output of relay. If significantly different from input of relay, it may indicate a bad relay.
I see with Complete Performance has that White Rodgers relay in stock...
a few bad glow plugs will screw up the computer. it senses power draw. if the glow plugs are only drawing 140 amps it will turn the relay off faster than it would drawing 200+ amps.
diesel orings is the cheapest i have found for a stancor relay. https://dieselorings.com/products/16...low-plug-relay
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