Hello guys!
So, I know there are lots of posts with glow plug questions.. Hope this one is not too repetitive!
So I know my glow plugs are totally trash. Well, I think my glow plugs are trashed. I can list the symptoms if it will help. Anyway, occasionally, rarely, i will go to turn the key and there will be no cranking, but simply the "Engine temp" light on the dash. Does this have to do with the glow plugs? I am asking because my intoxicated uncle got in and tried to start it, but he for whatever reason clicked my gloe plug controller on and off repeatedly. The result? No cranking, just the "Engine temp" light. Any ideas on the correlation?

Btw- if you can help tell me if my glow plugs are for sure the issue with my truck (long crank time to start, then soon runs smoothly) or if it could be the relay or controller? I know one thing that has been of interest is the "click" when i turn the key to warm the glow plugs and another "click" when I turn the key back off. Can't remember what tht was supposed to mean...?

 

This is not a glowplug issue. Does it start in neutral? Have you tried moving the shifter up or down ? Have you jumped the starter relay on the left fender ?

If he was intoxicated he had no business behind the wheel of anything

 

it could also be dead batteries

 

No no, i dont mean he was trying to drive intoxicated. In fact, i dont know if he was intoxicated at all. But regardless, i cant think of any other reason one would click the key on and off repeatedly.

And yes, it starts fine in neutral (with the clutch in- it is a standard). The starter runs perfectly normally almost always, until the occasional instance where the "engine temp" light comes on and nothing happens at all. Wait a little while, and it will work normally again.

And the glow plug relay or whatever clicking like i mentioned- is that a good sign or a bad one? If i remember correctly, that is a symptom that the relay is doing its job..

 

ahh ok. if it is a works now then not 5 minutes later but works 10 minutes after that type of thing, i would look at all battery connections and the connections on the other end of the cables too. it sounds like you have a dirty cable connection. either on the battery, a ground to engine block, at the fender mounter starter relay,or at the starter.

 

When it acts up have you tried to start it the "redneck way" screwdriver across the post of the starter relay. If it does the starter relay maybe failing . Check and clean all the grounds

 

Alright, the connections very well could be the problem. I'll be sure to check them. Thanks

 

you also need to check the fender mount starter relay has a good ground too. if that has a bad ground, it will not work.

 

Maybe I missed something here but when mine would crank for long periods and not start, and the relay did click, it was the controller. I could plug mine in for hours and it would start right up. I changed the controller and it worked great. I later also changed glow plugs once I found the problem. The bottom of my controller was all eat up.

 

What you missed is that the OP's issue is that the engine does NOT crank during the failure mode. This is some sort of starter circuit issue.

To the OP, the ENGINE TEMP light is a non-issue. It ALWAYS goes on when you turn the key to START, as a bulb check. You probably don't notice it when it starts normally, just because the engine starts so quicky.

No-crank - Jumping the relay and having it start does NOT indicate a failed relay. It only indicates a failure in the circuit somewhere up to (and including) the relay. FIRST thing to check, when it's happening, is to look for voltage on the SMALL wire terminal to the starter relay while holding the key in the START position (requires an assistant). If you get voltage, then reconnect that terminal and check for voltage at both "big" terminals, again while an assistant holds the key in START. If you don't get voltage at the terminal that goes down to the solenoid, THEN the relay is suspect.

If you don't get voltage at the small terminal in that first test, then you need to check the circuit going through the ignition switch. This includes the switch itself, and the clutch lockout switch.

If you get voltage with all the tests above, then the switches and relay are GOOD, and indeed, it's most likely a main power connection issue (loose battery terminal, loose battery ground, etc. Check also the big wire that goes from the passenger-side battery + to the starter motor.

 

need help! have a 7.3 idi non turbo was starting fine cold once hot wouldn't start. I replaced all 8 glow plugs had three bad ones. replaced with motor craft. replaced all return fuel lines and o-rings also have replaced the glow plug relay not the module. also replaced the fuel lift pump. tried the pour water on the shut off solenoid and seen that it turned on! didn't have to wait tell it cooled down. went and purchased a new shut off solenoid. just received the new shut off solenoid. Installed it and test drove the vehicle took it on a ten mile road trip. shut off vehicle went to start it no start. no clicking glow plugs no wait to start light on. vehicle will crank then start and shut off. duration is perhaps a second or so then crank and attempt to start step on throttle nothing it just seem like it wants to start but comes on a second then right to the off as if no fuel. while on this test drive the wait to start lamp was on the whole way now it wont even come on. I have rechecked the glow plugs with the test light they all light up there is power at the glow plug relay at the 12 volt contanly hot and there is voltage to the two red wires when I turn on the ignition key. there is voltage at the shut off solenoid and the there`s voltage at the advance cold start and there is voltage at the fuel injection solenoid. there is no voltage coming from the blue wire that power the wait to start light. that come from the module under the glow plug relay. could the glow plug module have taken a dump. can some one help. please. I have not been able to make this a good running vehicle it would run until I turned it off now nothing I`ve put fourty mile or so into this vehicle.has 205458 miles on it

 

this vehicle was an old church vehicle it is a 94 fe350 7.3 idi no turbo. part that have been replaced since I have taken this project into my hand are as follow. new tires , new steering control damper. new vacuum pump, new glow plugs all eight motorcraft, new return fuel lines and O-rings new fuel lift pump new glow plug relay twice. new shut off solenoid. and I cant get this vehicle going its need for run this sunday thought that thi shut off solenoid was going to fix the issue of not starting hot. now cant even start.it was starting until yester day. charged the batteries cranks wants start it cuts off in a second then cranks and starts for a second was headed to purchase a new control module but if its not going to help I can afford it.have gone threw 2500.00 my over draft is more than I make and wont be able to cover this next expence. it 100 hundred degress here in south Rio Grande wich would be Mc allen Tx. should`nt even need the glow plugs I thought.

 

sorry for the mis spelling. really need some help!

 

If your truck won't start hot but will start cold it sounds to me that the injection pump is the culprit. By pouring the cool water on the pump it allowed the clearances inside to come back to somewhat normal and allowed the start. Time for a rebuild on that pump as the head is worn out.