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Hi All,
I'm looking for suggestions on temporarily fixing the rusted out rear cab corners on my 1970 F250. The rust penetrates all the way through the outer panel. I don't have the time/skill/money to properly replace them right now and am looking for some suggestions to patch up the holes and stop the rust spreading.
I filled mine with expandable foam, and covered with undercoat. This was done in 2019.
Admittedly, not a great solution, but it has held for a while.
Thank you. Not a bad approach. Did you try to neutralize or remove the rust before the fix? Agreed, not ideal and not usually a fan of bush-fixes but bodywork isn't on my 2025 bingo card.
Thank you. Not a bad approach. Did you try to neutralize or remove the rust before the fix? Agreed, not ideal and not usually a fan of bush-fixes but bodywork isn't on my 2025 bingo card.
I used some brush on rust converter first. I hope to have it done properly, not by me, sometime in the future, but it's lower on the to-do list.
I have the same issue and question with my drip rails on front of cab, both sides. Winter approaches, and no time to fix correctly right now. It just needs to last a few short months in light CA winter, then remove and get to it next year. Do you all think gorilla tape or some such would be fine? Ugly and WT for sure, but then I’m ugly and WT too, so…
There are some pretty good size holes up to maybe 1/2”, will that stuff fill holes? Also, is it reasonably easy to remove for when I do it right? Thanks.
If your going to cut the cab corner out, not a problem. But this stuff sticks good, so trying to scrape it off would be difficult. The best way would be to freeze it then chip it out. If you use pour15 use tape to back it up on the inside would make it easier removing when the time comes.
Another option would be to use glass filled body filler. It's design to go on thick. It can be grind off later on. Sets really hard.......
The proper repair will require you cutting the cab corner out and weld in a new one.
Now drip rails are not that easy to repair. Not sure if replacement panels are available for drip rails. May be a lot of custom metal work. Drip rails are at a body seam for the roof and other lower panels, spot welded in and body sealed originally.
I was lucky on my cab that I only had a few pin holes around the drip rails. I just welded them up.
Hopefully some one who has done body work on the drip rails will comment in.
If your not driving the truck on a regular basis just cover the cab with plastic and tape it down so it does not blow off. Or out a good car/truck cover.
Any temp repair that has to be done is going to create twice as much work when you do the repair.
There are some pretty good size holes up to maybe 1/2”, will that stuff fill holes? Also, is it reasonably easy to remove for when I do it right? Thanks.
I’ve been using JB Weld. Gonna use the JB Weld putty stick for the bigger holes in mine on the underside of the drip rails. On the tops, I did Eastwood Rust Converter, then JB Weld metal
epoxy, followed by 3M 2-part seam sealer. It’s held very well since last summer, keeping the inside dry, finally. Once all the holes are filled, just gonna sand & spray primer followed by Duplicolor Wimbeldon White. I’ll take pics soon.
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