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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

timing and fuel mixture

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Old Jan 12, 2004 | 04:05 PM
  #16  
cleanLX's Avatar
cleanLX
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Phoenix Az, by way of Fre
man I'm a dummy... I have not checked the plugs... DOH!
Tonight I'll pull the plugs and get back to this thread.

The motor is a '63 390, 0.040" over with the non-emissions(big port) heads, compression ratio is very close to 9.0:1, and I'm running a Comp 268 cam... not sure which one...

Last night I filled up with 89 octane, this morning, no detonation.

All that carb talk is beyond me, but I am able to learn. Before you type a novel, let me check the plugs.

Thanks again for all your help so far.
The truck has not run so smooth since I've gotten it out of the shop.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2004 | 07:24 PM
  #17  
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orich
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
CleanLX,
I didn't notice where you lived. My engine is a 390 that came out of my friends 67 wagon with 120,000. on it and that baby ran great 2barrel carb and 18+ mpg with it, hwy. I moved to the desert from Los Angeles where there was not much humidity. I rebuilt it 0.30 over, new stock cam added headers and stock iron 4 barrel intake Autolite carb wirh the same size#48 main jets.
The engine was hard to start, had to pump the hell out of it each morning. It idled so smooth and pinged so bad. and jurked at low speeds. Here's what, I did after putting the timing at TDC* As that did not fix it. I removed the air filter and put my hand over the carb as it's running with my fingers apart so it would keep running, as, I did this the engine rpm went way up. I test drove
the truck with the choke out aha. It ran much better. I Switched rear to the main jets not all that much better so, I did the next best thing. I drilled them out with a 1/16'' drill which is around 0.62+'' and it ran great. Better rich then lean until, I could order more jets... Well many yrs later I had to redo the heads, Hard seats, RV low end cam 600CFM Holly Edelbrock PERFORMANCE intake manifold, and HERE WE GO AGAIN It's running to lean plus the pump shot is not enough. I drilled it out form 0.28 to 0.32 better now, Hollys main jets are not the same in thousands as ford or autolite is. So now i'm up to #72 jet size for it to run good. Hot Supper Accel coil and so on. Had to run colder plus. Now atfer doing all this good stuff the truck runs great with 7 to 10 mpg with camper. 10 yrs ago.. It's My story and i'm changing it slowly back to near stock After 23 yrs I'm putting back on the stock exh. manifolds this yr. Maybe stock intake someday..Hmmm Did, I say, I like to tinker.. My dad told me when, I was about 15yr old and had a Model A ford that the more you hop it up the more your under the hood and not driving it, He was right. that was 45 yrs ago. I really understand that statment now. Wish, I listed you him then...
orich
 
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 09:55 AM
  #18  
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ceetwarrior
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From: Colorado
I set my 390 at 10* BTDC. I have an old Thunderbird book that I went by. Does that sound right?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 10:40 AM
  #19  
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orich
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
What ever the book says is a starting point. But in todays world
gas prices aren't 32 cent's a gal. for 100+ octane like we had back
then. Here in Ca. we only have 87,89, and 91 octane at times it
was as high as $3.00 a gal. And a gal. of water as high as $1.25.
So if your not using high octane gas with nonlead addtive to keep it form pinging =the slow melt down then, I would say you will have to move it down some. It would be a test drive to find what works for you in you area. Plus the$$$ octane your using. My 2cents
orich
 
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 11:13 AM
  #20  
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cleanLX
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From: Phoenix Az, by way of Fre
Ya, I am still getting some part throttle ping once the truck is fully warmed up.
Funny you mention running the the choke out... last night I drove 30 freeway miles with the choke out(oops) 70-75mph, slight grades and no ping, but, man did the gas gauge ever move in rapid fashion.
Also, the truck is hard to start, and needs pumped like mad(8-10 times, 48*F) to get it to start in the am.

Where, oh where can I order/buy jets for my stock 2bbl?
Is it really that easy, just pull the old ones out and set new larger ones in... by hand... no special tools?
Oh, my Mustangs spark plug wrench does not fit the old truck, so, still have not checked the plugs.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 07:43 AM
  #21  
orich's Avatar
orich
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Clean LX
Darm you wouldn't have to you your choke at that kind of speed.
only at low to maybe 40 befoe the power jet starts to open.
Well it sounds like your biggest problem is you aren't feeding it enough high octane gas or enough mid grade. Large ports those don't sound like 2brl. heads to me. My small port heads are 9.3 ratio. Check your compression and i'll bet it's up around 180plus.
Pull the top off off the carb carefully remove float and with a large tip screw driver remove the brass jet in the bottom, the size is stamped on it. They should be around #56 so it does not run on the lean side.... Now you have enough info, you just need to a ply it or take it to a speed shop and let them do it for you$$$
Ps what size are your jets.......... My 2cents
orich
 
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 11:01 AM
  #22  
cleanLX's Avatar
cleanLX
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From: Phoenix Az, by way of Fre
Originally posted by orich
Darm you wouldn't have to you your choke at that kind of speed.
only at low to maybe 40 befoe the power jet starts to open.
Ya, I only did it out of forgetfulness...
Is a power jet the same as a power valve?
Is there a place on the internet I can go and look at an exploded view of a stock carb? I am carb illiterate.

Originally posted by orich
Well it sounds like your biggest problem is you aren't feeding it enough high octane gas or enough mid grade. Large ports those don't sound like 2brl. heads to me. My small port heads are 9.3 ratio. Check your compression and i'll bet it's up around 180plus.
The heads are not original to the motor, I had plans of putting a 4bbl, alum. intake and headeers on it, but the rebuild ate more money than I had, so, the stock manifold, carb and logs went back on.
I really don't want to have to run 91octane...

Originally posted by orich
Pull the top off off the carb carefully remove float and with a large tip screw driver remove the brass jet in the bottom, the size is stamped on it. They should be around #56 so it does not run on the lean side.... Now you have enough info, you just need to a ply it or take it to a speed shop and let them do it for you$$$
Ps what size are your jets.......... My 2cents
orich
Not a clue to what size jets are in it.
No idea where to get jets either? Will NAPA have 'em?
I would like to attempt this on my own.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 12:16 PM
  #23  
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cleanLX
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From: Phoenix Az, by way of Fre
found a place that has jets.

carb has to come off to do this eh?
 
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 05:48 PM
  #24  
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MKPJ1
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From: simpsonville USA
Clean LX,

Sounds like you are running hot. Phoenix was my old stomping ground back in the late 90s. I went to college in at the U of A and NAU. I know how hot it can be. What thermo are you using, 180, 195? Do you have a carb spacer? You could be running hot and boiling your fuel. That would explain the hard starts. Fuel boils out of the bowl so no fuel when you go to start. May explain the pinging, maybe? Should be able to easily run on 87 when you are under 10. Your intake can leak from underneath. What is your vacuum? Is it steady?

Ken
68 F100 390
74 Bronco 351W
 
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 06:18 PM
  #25  
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cleanLX
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From: Phoenix Az, by way of Fre
running a 160 thermo, thought I'd change it out to a 180... not sure a 160 keeps water in the rad long enough to disapate enough heat... sound crazy?

you are the second person this week to mention boiling the fuel off. I was told running an electric pump would help the hot starts by pressurizing the fuel line, never thought of using a carb spacer.

No vacuum gauge, not sure, but I've sprayed brake cleaner everywhere under there and the idle does not change, so, I don't think I've got a vacuum leak.

Only thing I can think it is, is running lean(ping/hot), but, I've still not pulled plugs to confirm.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 06:43 PM
  #26  
MKPJ1's Avatar
MKPJ1
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 119
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From: simpsonville USA
Wow,

160 sounds cold. Do you have a temp gauge that tells you the actual temp. I would definetely move to the 180 range to decrease wear on the motor even in Phoenix. I think boiling fuel would explain the hard starts more than the pinging. I would check your vacuum. Gauges are cheap and a good diagnosing tool. Your intake can leak underneath into the engine. Still could be your vacuum advance is screwy. Try using a timing light and having someone rev your engine to 2-3000 grand and see if your vacuum advance takes the mark up to around 35 on the dampner. Any higher and it would ping on moderate load. Are your sure the dampner didn't slip or is a little off? Next wouldbe you jetting which has already been suggested. Take this to the 390 engine forum. Those guys are just dead on sharp. Like said before. You are going to have to tinker.

Good luck and don't freeze out there

Ken
 
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 08:59 AM
  #27  
cleanLX's Avatar
cleanLX
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 541
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From: Phoenix Az, by way of Fre
I'll try to stay warm .
No real gauges in the truck, just the stock ones. They are consistant, but, no idea what they actually mean.
I will get my fiancee to rev the truck up and see where the timing gets to, I'll also pick up a plug socket at noon, and finally check the plugs.
Where would I get a carb spacer for the Autolite 2100?

Oh, I'll grab a 180 t-stat too.
 
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