I have a 67 with a 352. what is the timing supposed to be - what degrees (advanced or retarded)?

Also, how do I know if my air/fuel mixture is right?

 

Hi,

I would set the initial timing to 6* before TDC. Set it with the vacuum advance line disconnected from the dissy and plugged.

Air/fuel mixture can be adjusted 2 ways that I know of. First is idle mixture and it is adjusted with the small screws you can see on each side of the carb towards the front. Get the engine up to operating temp and while it is idling slowly screw one of the screws in until you hear the engine start to bogg. Then back it off alittle. Repeat this with the other idle screw.

The other air/fuel mixture adjustment involves the changing of jets in the carb. I do not have any first hand experiance with this.

Hope this helps,

 

Get the timing set first. 6* is the baseline to start at for FE's. After you are sure the timing is set, you can look at the carb. if you are smoking black sooty exhaust, you are running too rich. If the timing is within specs, and your points and all are set, and you still ping under loads, you are running on the lean side. Either of these situations call for a jet change. On a stock Autolite, you simply remove the top cover and unscrew two little brass screws with holes in them, and screw back in two new ones. If the truck idles fine, dont fiddle with the 2 screws too much. If you do end up setting them, just make sure that both screws are close to the same number of turns out.

 

Ok guy's your sleeping on this one # 1 You set the Points first.

 

This site is the best. Everytime I need help, I come in here, and it's already being discussed.

vacuum disconnected 'AND' plug'd... is this correct?

k, where would I purchase a jet kit for the stock 2bbl?

 

Pull the vacuum line off of the distributor (vacuum advance canister) and plug it with a golf tee or something. Not sure where to get replacement jets.
jor

 

Just pull the line off at the distributor (vacuum advance) and plug
the rubber line feeling back to the carb. Set idle RPM down to 500-600. distributors with the dual diaphragm (vacuum advance) the points set at 0.21 dwell of 24-29' timing 10 BTDC all other Single
diaphragm 0.17 is 26-31 timing 6 BTDC and if you have a camper on it you may have to back it down to around 2 BTDC Some specs may change you so check for your yr and model...
Hope this helps. My 2cents
orich

 

that helps a lot.
I'm getting serious part throttle ping. extra light throttle is fine, and WOT is fine, but, I never drive in those conditions.
I've set timing to 6* with vacuum unhooked, but not plug'd, and single point dizzy is at 0.17.
the truck is never loaded down... I'm an office nerd and it's my daily driver.

You guys think that the plug'd vacuum and adjusted timing will fix the part throttle, or does it still likely need jet'd?

 

cleanLX,
Hmmmm, well if your running that truck with the vacuum line unhooked and unpluged thats your problem. You see it makes it run leaner by getting to much air to fuel mixture. Note the vacuum advance if bad will do the samething. This should always be tested when doing a tune-up. To test a vacuum advance the old way place a rubber line on it and suck on the other end, if it moves and holes vacuum it's good. Or theres a vacuum hand pump test unit a guy can use.. ...PS the vacuum advance line must
be hooked up at the carb. not from the Manifold vacuum..
My 2cents...
orich

 

.
I'm not running it that way, that was just how I'd set the timing.

K.
I've reset timing with vacuum unhooked AND pluged and have it down to 5*.
Points are at 0.017.
Still having part throttle detonation, not near as bad as before, but still pretty scary.

Should I try the mixture screws, or just find a jet kit someplace?
Where would I find a jet kit for the stock 2bbl?

 

Well ok, Did you test the vacuum advance to see if it will hole vacuum ??? Is the vacuum advance the type that is adjustable or non. If you don't know here's what to look for, the nipple where your rubber vacuum advance hose goes on it will have a removeable nipple that screws in to the vacuum advance.. This type is albe to adjust how much vacuum advance it will have. Maybe someone has remove some of the spacers washers. If it's
the other type it is also adjustable. Only inside the nipple there's a allen cap screw, I think it is 1/8'' size. Do not try mess with this stuff yet. DId you CHECK for any type of vacuum leaks? I once found a co. truck with the carb ready to fall off, or a PCV line split, carb base gasket.. If there's know fix and you done all of this.. HMMM What grade of fuel are you using? As Vehicle's get older they slowly build up with carbon and that raises the compression which means you should be using a high grade fuel in the thing or it will ping and keep running on with the KEY turned off.. If you have been using high grade fuel and it's still doing it set the timing down too 2*BTDC Oh yeah Are you using a nonlead addictvie. If not this is what slowy burns out the exhaust seats..
My 2 cents hope this helps ya.
orich

 

Some of you might want to print this out,for your garage?

http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...e-upSpecs.html

 

Dennis- Ford made a 12 cylinder? I saw the firing order on that link.

 

Orich,
the motor is a fresh rebuild, less than 4000 miles on it.
no vacuum leaks, and the carb was rebuilt... I've sprayed brake cleaner all over the place and the idle does not alter, so, I'm guessing the vacuum leak thing has been shown not a culprit.

87octane, and the valves were moderenized in the rebuild.

vacuum advance, I've sucked on the tube, and the idle goes up... so... it works? LOL!
The dizzy is a Malory, was on the truck when I bought it.

Guess I'll time it down to 2-3*... just does not seem right to have to run such low timing on a fresh motor...

You really are against putting bigger jets in it eh?

 

cleanLX,
Have you checked the plugs ? I would say there on the white side if they are running to lean. And the is bad. Have you run tryed High Grade like 91 octane fuel ??? My book says that the 67 352'' 8.9 comp. ratio stock Well, I sure they been shaved a few times or maybe a big cute off of them. Ok here's a ruff comp. ratio list.7.0=120psi,8.0=140psi,9.0=160psi,10.0=180psi, 11.0=200psi.
Have you checked what your compression is?? Maybe it's because
that distributor is advancing to much. There was 2, 352 engine listed for 1966-67. 1 Had the Thermactor smog system heads and it show that the TIMING is set at TDC@625 and the other at 6*
BTDC 550 RPM. Maybe all that stuff has been strip off and heads pluged. Now if your running headers and it's been bored out Hot coil heads cut you'll have to rejet that carb. up and the plus are
looking like theres little pieces of melted metal or carbon on the inside of them?? For a truck it should have jets around 0.52-0.56, car carb's are down to 0.48 jet's autolite and motorcraft carb jets
are the same. Most 70's 360-390 camper/specials have the 0.56
jets in them. YOU need to keep trying to do stuff that will retard your detonation. Who rebuit you carb? maybe float is to lowor the pump rod is in the wrong hole or it could be that the pump shot is mostly returning to the float chamber. These can all make it do what it''s doing. So you have to learn how to check all these things. We can all give you tips and how too's but your the only one on your end to do and check these things. If you don't have this and that maybe your friends can help you out.. My 2 cents
orich