I have been reading these forums for years, never joined but I'm at a loss. I've done a number of these before with little to no issue. Time comes for mine ALL AND I MEAN ALL factory ford parts for the dealer other then the hv340 oil pump, phasers checked twice no damage from the box that can be seen. Pan pulled and cleaned, oil pick up pulled checked nothing in it used a pick to double check. Timing the engine goes off quick and easy, double check, triple check. Wife explained what needs to be seen 2nd eyes check all looks good. Pulled the tensioner pins heading back together we go. Once back together, it runs like dog **** and that's an insult to dog **** at this point. First 5 minutes it ran great, exhaust sounded chrisp, throttle great. Go to back it out and it falls on its face. After that it idles rough, no acceleration. No active codes at all. 0 miss fires counted, I think I could get out and walk faster then the truck with go at this point. Any ideas?

 

Assuming this is a 4.6L or 5.4L 3v:
When you did all this, did you remove or replace any of the followers, remove the cams, VCT, etc?....
Did you remove the intake when you did this? Some people do & it could have created a vacuum leak.
Are there any codes, even "pending"?
Besides stumbling, was there any noticeable or concerning engine sounds?
Is it possible everything was in place but something wasn't torqued down before finishing assembly?
Do all the fluids look "normal"? IE - no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil?

If it's a 2v, (& you replaced the plugs) did you check the torque on the plugs?

 

Sorry.. I ment to put that this is a 5.4 v3 engine. Oil and coolant are new, of course i replaced the oil doing this but also the coolant seeing I was doing major repairs. Tmat this time I see no mixing of the fuilds. Oil that came out look dirty but clean, coolant probably was good but im good for a while now again. Removed the 6 rollers that are required, torqued everything down chain guides to 89in lbs, phasers to 30ft lbs then 90* using a phaser lock tool. Oil pump to 89in lbs and tensioners to 18 ft lbs. Did not pull intake or water pump never have had to. Did have a vacuum leak but from an old hose so I just replaced it. No codes pending other then randomly injector 2 and injector 7, once cleaned the will come back after starting again but not right away and randomly. Double checked all connections, and noid light on all 8 injectors found 2.2 volts and 13.5 ground on each. Vvt solenoid connector is lighting up the void light over 800 rpms. Have not tested the the resistance on the vvt as my volt meter needs a new fuse.. on order atm. Made sure to install crank tone ring with fingers facing out *forgot that one time * never again. I'm stumped

 

Hmmm....
Sounds like everything was covered, so what got over-looked or came loose?
Only going by the data you have, I find it odd that you have 2 injectors that flip out randomly.
Have you tried swapping 1 or both of these injectors to a "good" location to see if the problem "follows"?
If the problem "follows", well you have a few bad injectors.
If it doesn't, then you may have to focus on either the wiring or the ECM/computer.

If you want to rule out something went physically wrong, it seems like it's time for a compression & leak-down test.
Some more fancy scan tools will graph a "contribution" level for each cylinder that can let you know where the "weak" ones are.
Random thought: is it possible the pin on the end of the cam wasn't located fully into the phaser or maybe it broke when you put it in gear.
Another random thought: Did you get your Motorcraft parts off Amazon or eBay?

 

Parts order from my ford dealer, check cam pins seen no damage on the cam themselves or with the phasers, I have not switched injectors around at this time. Ordered a plug for forscan so I can run a few tests and get more info. I did make sure the cam phasers are fully locked into place. I did everything by the book as I have done many times before.... so I'm not sure how or why something went wrong.

 

Parts from the dealer "should" rule out a lot, but I don't think we can make any more assumptions without the further tests you want to run with your Forscan.
I just can't help but think what you are describing "sounds" like something slipped or broke since you said it was running fine then as soon as you put it in gear it went FUBAR.

It also sounds like you have been inside these engines enough times to know what to look out for so the most likely outcome is something out of the ordinary snuck in while your back was turned.

 

Im going to be laughing im sure when i figure it out... its gonna be something stupid simple, or something out od the box was failed. Unplugging the VCTs does nothing at all. So I'm wondering if it simple could be failed VCTs.

 

Did you say it idles rough?
At idle, the phasers are supposed to be zero adv/ret so shouldn’t the VCTs be doing nothing?
Unless…. 1 or both are stuck open pushing oil pressure to the phasers & confusing the crap out of the computer.

 

Yep, and that's kinda what im thinking. I've unplugged them and tried to rev it up with no changes at all. Working on getting forscan setup right now so I can go out there and look at the data better. *update*

I believe this is about a good as you can get on the phaser side. Line before and after the jumps are at idle warm, wife trying to bring it up to over 800 rpm while i watched the computer is why it jumps so much but they are lining up really well it seems. I believe at this point I can rule out timing being off. Cylinder 7 injector has not come back after checking the plug, cylinder 2 also seems to be good now. Did throw B1600-FF P020-FF P0202-P belive those 2 to be fixed, P1867-27 P1891-2F U1900-2F and U1950-20. So need a b1s2 o2 sensor it looks like... I do not believe that to cause all the issues looking into and will be running down the other codes.



Koeo test pulled nothing up other then the o2 sensor.

 

Small update... pulled the intake along with all 8 plugs, just checking everything i can, she's ate 3 out of 8 plugs.... compression is good.... I think i have a minor spark plug issue. But I'm going deeper to make sure nothing else is going on.

 

and no misfire DTC ?

 

I would look at the o2 condition and heaters . They get burnt on manifold . But I would have all new plugs and boots .No telling what it ran like before you started- miles? . I have had to change out injectors 2 times now originals were known to be a problem so I changed them out at 130k again at 260k . All new orings on them . You need to see signals on front o2's switching ,i'm sure you cleaned maf and throttle body . Its hard to believe you have no dtc's . Perhaps it hasn't had any drive time . Whats your fuel pressure . look at your fpdm on rear axle .
I believe in changing injectors in sets of 4 at least ,if some are bad then the others arent far behind . You can lay the injectors out still in rails on dry newspaper turn key on none should leak , I had one shooting a stream and another dripping ,it was causing a hard start - but worse it could have hydro my engine and bent a rod . I only use new injectors . Watch out for counterfeit plugs.
Once you get misfires in hand by looking at mode six ,it will tell you which cly is producing raw computer counts toward setting a code- it will also tell how many counts it will need to set a code . You want zero counts .
It sounds like it could be fuel related or fuel mixtur which is determined by front o2.s and maf signal . At idle vacuum leak will cause rough running but at speed it will run better. do to the volume of air coming in .

 

Only the codes listed are the codes in it

 

When you say “she's ate 3 out of 8 plugs”, what do you mean?
They were fouled?
Are 2 of these the cylinders you said had intermittent misfires?

The coil boots can be an issue.
You may see some cracking or you may see some signs of arching.
Any pics?