I'm hoping someone here can help me out with this one. 2006 expedition 5.4l 3v. Bought the vehicle used and it was running fine about 15-20k miles after I bought the vehicle it started the timing rattle and some minor performance issues. I did not waste any time taking vehicle down and doing complete timing job. New phasers, chains, tensioner, guides, vct solenoids, melling HV oil pump, and threw a water pump on it since everything else in the front was off. Did plugs and coils with new boots as well. Ran great for like a week or so then started acting a bit funny and throwing a CEL, thought maybe it was a bad aftermarket part (I know bad move), I then didn't have time to redo the job even though parts were under warranty so I took it to the dealership who did a full timing job (phasers, chains, guides, tensioner, solenoids). Same day CEL came on and started running rough. Long story short back and forth at dealership they gave me a new phaser which I installed myself, and it is still doing the exact same thing. I marked and verified timing was correct when I did it, when I dismantled it after dealership did it, and putting it back together this time (3rd timing job). It is in time.

Bank 2 is acting up. Vehicle runs great but on slight acceleration bank 2 phaser advances like it should but when it is supposed to go back to return it stays advanced (30-60°) and runs rough. If I put it in park or neutral immediately it will return to normal but if I ignore it then it throws a CEL (P0022) and throws the vct system into a disabled status (open loop) until vehicle is turned off and back on.

Hopefully that is enough info to start. I can make usually make it do it on command. I am more than willing to answer more specific questions or give additional information if something specific is asked for. I do have access to view and record live data if needed.

Any help would be much appreciated I have way too much money and time into this vehicle and everyone I know including the dealership is at a loss of ideas. There answer is a new motor will fix it. I would have done that in the first place had I known I was gonna have this much money in it to begin with.

 

Additional info. 4WD so oil pan is a PITA to drop but originally the tensioner guide was broke but in 3 big pieces and all was accounted for is the reason it did not get dropped. Have run oil flush and treatment through it as well as soak oil pan in chem dip all poured through the oil pump pickup tube. Solenoid valve body has also been replaced (both sides) as well as removing camshaft and oil pump and running carb and choke cleaner as well as compressed air through every oil journal that I am aware of on this side of the engine, including journals on camshaft for oil delivery to phaser (no gunk or restrictions found).