Ok so lately I changed out my oil pan. I started my truck up afterwards and it seemed to be running fine, i took it out to the pond and started getting a check engine light intermittently, mostly when getting into the throttle. Once i get to an even speed and level off, or if i just accelerate slowly I don't get the check engine light, runs fine at idle or when revving it up in neutral. My truck is also running slow, when i get on the throttle it hesitates a good bit.

So I did the do it yourself eec code test, I got system pass on KOEO, 33(EGR opening not detected) on CM. When Tried the KOER I got some really funny results; 4 blinks 1/2 sec apart, no more no less. On top of that it caused my truck to idle high(1600rpms) like i had a bad TPS, as soon as i disconnect the STI wire it went back to normal running. TPS is new, only about 500-1000 miles on it, O2 sensor only has <5k miles on it. The IAC was replaced about 10k miles and 7-8 years ago. I did clean out my throttle body while I had it off with carb cleaner, some probably got into the IAC, that shouldn't hurt it though?

Now I do have one stupid thing to confess. When i replaced my oil pan, the first time i put it back on i didn't line up the oil pump driveshaft correctly so when i re-did it I took the dizzy off to make sure I got it right. When i put the dizzy back in I didn't go through the processes of piston no. 1 TDC and rotor at point 1. I simply put it back in at the same point, i hope. If it was just slightly off could that be f***ing up my timing. Please help

btw-this is on 91' F150 in my sig block

 

get a timing lite first and set the timing
then go to Ford Fuel Injection
read up on test procedures on the
tps, iac, egr.and ground wires

 

i read in my chilton that you can't or shouldn't try to adjust the timing on a TFI-IV system. I'm not positive thats what i have, they listed that and Duraspark, and after minimal reading and research i assumed that's what i had. I guess it's on to testing out my sensors provided i'm correct about the timing.

 

you can set the base timing.

remove spout, check timing, should be 10 degrees btdc.

put spout back in.

 

You aborted the engine running test while the computer was testing things. The four flashes signify that the engine has 8 cylinders, and the computer will then hold a high idle for a period of time, although I can't remember how long. Be patient, the codes come after the engine idles down.

 

If that is what the chilton say then it is dead wrong.
You must set the timing with a light just like quicklook2 said.
Also like EPNCSU2006 said you quit in the middle of the test.
Yes you do have a EEC IV system.

 

Good to know, i thought that was kinda strange. And i let her run for a minute give or take, but it makes sense that it does the test at a higher rpm than idle. It's late now, so i'll try her again tomorrow evening. Thanks for the quick replys and tips, hopefully this will at least get me farther down the road of troubleshooting. Post report to follow

 

Codes;
21: ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts. Gonna need help with that, what is the ECT. On the second test i didn't get this code.

44: Thermactor Air Injection system inoperative (Right side). This is the smog pump right. I took off the pulley and ran a small belt skipping this system when I installed my new exhaust, it shouldn't be causing problems.

52: Power steering pressure switch always open or closed. Not part of my engine problem, but I'm thinking i should fix that. Is anything gonna get hurt much.

77: System failed to recognize brief WOT during Dynamic Response Test (user error). I hit the throttle at the time I thought i was supposed too, when the rpms drop down to 1k then back up to 1.5k.

Basically none of the error codes I am getting are giving me any idea of what is wrong. I'm guessing that it must be the timing.

 

You did not pre warm your engine and Engine Coolant Temp. (ETC) was cold.

You did not move the steering wheel a half turn after the cylinder number was displayed.

You did not floor it after pause (10).

 

Didn't you get one of dem instructions book wit that thar testen thingiy? lol!

 

he dun kould nnot find the durn instruktion thingy.

 

i don't have a tester, i did it the ghetto way on fordfuelinjection by hooking the STI to a ground and counting the engine light blinks. At first i couldn't find the directions for a KOER test through a direct link, I just tried a search and found it. It's late, i got early work, suppose I'll try again tmw and see if I can finally get the **** right.

 

I did it that way once, maybe twice, was all I needed to know to jump on ebay real quick and buy a real reader.
For 22 bucks shipped to my house I picked up a Innova 3145 in like new condition with the manual. These type trucks are aging so the readers are pretty easy to come by used pretty cheap. I went a little bit more because of its condition, could have got one for half that. My high bid was 25 bucks.

That count the pretty little flashing light thing is crazy!

 

The count the flashing light thing is cheap and easy, but I guess not all share my opinion. Here is another site that may help define the flashes a little better than fordfuelinjection.com: http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/eectest.html
Just leave out the test light/volt meter in the hookup diagrams since you're watching the check engine light.

 

i hated the counting thing.

the 3145 reader is the bomb.