Im test fitting my fenders after paint on my 75 F250 These are original fenders and inner fenders, cowl etc... nothing was changed after removal. I've looked at my other examples (78 bronco and 79 F250) and both have rather large gaps and the fenders are inset from the cowl. Without a shim on the bolt at the door jam, I don't see how there is not a huge inset. I just can't seem to get the gap reasonable on the drivers side. I've removed all the original body mount shims ( new body mounts) to get the cab as low as it can go.

 

I know the gaps won't be tight as a new car, that's ok. It's my first time assembling all these things. I've read most of the body alignment threads I can find...

 

Panel fitment always starts at the rear of the door jam and works forward. you have to fit your door first then set the fender. that gap is the result of proper fitment not part of it.

That gap will be wider than you'd figure it should.

 

Don't feel bad nutter. I just replaced some rust on my passenger door and then tried to realign door to cab to fender. That cowl I swear is designed to **** everyone off lol. Drivers side is bad too. I've thought of cutting the cowl and forming in down because it's offset out so far that it makes it impossible to align the fender with cowl without being proud of the door. On my driver side I originally shimmed out the fender like you are trying but I got a little more serious on the passenger side since I had to do rust work there so I got a little more into it. There is no way to align everything perfectly...or even well, on my truck anyways. There's always going to be a trade off somewhere, unless you do some very expensive custom work. Not worth it. I have some 'parts' truck in my yard and they're all a little different. Another example I can tell you, I installed, temporarily, all my body moldings on passenger side just to make sure they all line up. Look at the pic of the lower molding. It's offset by about 3/4" of an inch!...and that's factory. I'm going to weld in the old hole and drill a new one. Do the best you can. Just try and find a happy medium. I've come to the conclusion after spending hours on this passenger side that I had to cut my losses otherwise it was going to drive me crazy! After looking at some of my old pics of the truck I realize some things just didn't align from the factory and my truck is pretty well all original on the exterior. That's just the way things were back then. Hope this helps.



This wasn't the pic I wanted but it shows you what I'm dealing with.

 

I replaced my fenders and everything bolted up nice ....BUT ....there is this oddity that showed up both sides.

At first it bothered me, but now I don't even notice .... but looking at your pics, I wonder if I spaced that mount out there inside the door near top hinge 1/4" might do it .... but then the center of the fender might be out too far. Maybe I should forget it? It is the same both sides.

I never noticed it before, but it had the wide trim and race track.

 

Thanks everyone. I'll start at the doors after I get some wiring and interior work done.i zoomed in on this picture, you can see that it was originally inset from the cowl quite a bit.

 

Well, it doesn't continue the dent all the way to the top lip of the dent. The horizontal edge of the hood and the edge of the cowl serve to continue or blend the top lip of the dent.

I told my painter buddy I was just gonna live with mine since both sides did it the same. Maybe it is correct, I replaced my doors after he trimmed them and painted inside, so the dent trim was not on them when I later put the new frt fenders on and first noticed it. I just never noticed it when it was all original. I don't often see one to compare.
After blowing you picture up and getting a good look, I see the wide trim seems to hide it. Maybe the reson it jumped out to my attention was the dark gap on the all white? Thank you, I feel better already.

 

Ya those moldings or trim hide a lot!

 

Go with 440's advice. You can get the door pretty close to cab opening and the rest will be easier.

 

Also, remember that these trucks were designed to be work trucks, not fancy show cars. As long as the door isn't hitting the fender when opening and closing, you have it set pretty good. Sometimes, it just takes adjusting until it's good enough.

 

I am pretty sure 77&79F250 has a secquence printed out from start to finish.
He posted a copy when I was putting mine back together.
If I remember correctly you start at the cowl, work forward then doors are last.
Maybe someone can find it in the history or he mite see this and post it again..

 

Post #14 here maybe? hood hindges hitting hood - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

If you think Fords are bad, try doing cowl wiper fender gaps of same area GM pickups. You need to be creative, a little jacking here a little prying there.

 

The rear of the door jam is where you start on any standard vehicle. it's the one place you have no ability to adjust so you use it as a starting point. end of story.

These pickups are as easy to set the lines on of anything you'll ever work on. if you can't get it right you are either using aftermarket metal or someone screwed up in reworking the original metal. like any production vehicle the lines and gaps aren't perfect, but they should look nice or you did something wrong.

 

Start at the door like sixpack says.Everything from there forward has a lot more adjustment, shimming, tweaking cababilities.Getting gaps acceptible can be VERY time consuming. good luck! Oh, by the way ;that cowl to fender gap is always a big 'ol gap. You just need to get it horizontally even.