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Hello...
New to this forum...Been hanging out in the older truck forum for a while, '74 to '79, but have purchased a Bronco so I can take my truck of the road for a frame up rebuild.
So, this electric 4x4 shift thing. I understand theres a motor on the transfer case that shifts it? It dosent always go in (its a '91). Would changing that motor solve my problem ? Also, any advantage to switching to lockout hubs ?
No other problems yet, but looking forward to reading here and learning about my new ride.
The autohubs on my 90 Bronco can be manually engaged and disengaged. The 4x4 low light flashes when the hubs fail to auto-engage. There's been a couple of treads on here the past 2 weeks in one way or another about T-case/auto hubs. Good luck.
The 4x4 engage/disengage motor wears out frequently. The motor hit me in the pocket at $340 cost. It fixed my 4x4 problem. I was in a nasty spot and tried to put it in 4 and it would not engage. I yanked that motor off and manually moved that lever to 4 low. Why someone has not made a manual adapter for this yet, boggles me. I pulled the auto hubs a long time ago. I could hear them lock up while turning a corner in 2WD. The warn manual hubs fixed the problem.
Hello, I am new to this forum and I am glad I found it. I currently own a 2000 lariat super duty with the V10 gas enginne. I have been having issues with the hub locks for the 4x4. When I turn the switch on I feel the transfer case engaging but the hubs would not. When I try to manually lock them, I really can't it is like they are stuck or something. I have heard of manual hubs being better, where can I get those?
Yeah, I've had this problem with my 88 Bronco 302, the low range light flashes when it fails to auto-engage (like rlh said) and all that I have to do to fix this when it happens, was drop it in reverse, drive it back about 20 feet, then throw it into drive, and they engaged perfect, I can't explain this, but it got it working every single time this has happened to me! Hope this helps.
Ive dealt with this problem before seems the 4x4 motor can be fixed w/o buying a new one. look at this post -yes it has explorer/rangers on the titles butt is great info for the do it yaselfer .http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/web/pages/tcases.html --------hope this helps TR------- these motors off these explorers and rangers are identical to our broncoes
how the heck can you lock your auto hubs manually. i dont think this can be done. please give me step by step instructions. i still say you cant do it unless you climb under and turn your drive shaft, this would lock them if they are working. to unlock manually you would havr to jack up the truck and spin the wheels backwards.
the hubs on new super dutys look like manuels, but have two positions, automatic, like our crappy bronco hubs,, and lock. This is what jdevarie is talking about i guess, since he has a 2000 v10 superduty. As far as i know the only way to manually engage the autos on our bronco is to take them out and put in a good hub.
JOhn Pen- When you push the 4x4 button do you hear any clicking? If you do then your problem is the transfer case motor.
If you don't hear any clicking your problem is either the fuse, The TCSM, or the connections for the T-Case motor are dirty.
I;m going to assume that you are hearing clicks. IF not let me know and I will post what else you should do.
IF you are hearing clicks go ahead and crawl under truck. On the BACK of the T-Case is the T-case motor held on with 4 bolts. WHat you need to do first is check to make sure that none of the wires are broken. IF that checks out fine proceed to the next step.
Get a hammer. Hit the T-case motor on the side that has a cylinder shape. Hit it hard about 5 times. Then try to see if your 4x4 is working. IF it is NOT working yet. Proceed to the next step.
Now the only thing left is to either fix or replace this motor. It is VERY EASY to fix yourself. WHat you need to do is remove the T-Case motor by simply removing the 4 bolts that hold it on. Then you will have to wiggle/pull reallly hard to get it off.
When you get it off disconnect the wiring harness. You will have to cut the 3 wires coming out of the transfer case. I belive one is Brown, one is green, and one is red. YOu have to cut these wires wether you try to fix your current motor or replace it. You can just splice them back together later.
WHen you have the motor off and on a workbench, go ahead and remove the 3 weird looking bolts that hold the cap on the motor. BE SURE TO MARK THE COVER WITH A MARKER SO IT GOES BACK ON IN THE EXACT SAME SPOT. If you do not have the tool to remove these bolts, get some WD-40. Soak the bolts with it. THen get a hammer and a flat screwdriver hit the bolts with the hammer and screwdriver on the head a few times. Then get some good size pliars and grip the sides of the bolts and turn them loose.
When you get them all loose go ahead and yank the cap off. THen get soem WD-40 and clean the entire motor inside with it. THen go ahead and tighten the bolts backon the same way you took them off. THen reinstall the motor the same way you took it off.
YOUR MOTOR SHOULD NOW WORK. BEST PART IT ONLY COST $0!!
By the way a used motor will run you about $60.00 New is $395.00
Bronco351, Yes, It clicks and after a bunch of dicking around (forward, backward, neuteral etc) it will go in. The guy I bought it from says part of the problem is the cold. Im going to pull it off and do as you say and hope that solves the problem. Anyone want to venture a guess on the cost of the hub kit ?
I hear clicking on my 88 2 or 3 times then it engages, and it almost never fails, does this mean my transfer case motor is ABOUT to go out or something? I really want this to work for the winter, its just now starting to sleet up here.
Originally posted by BOJOFASO how the heck can you lock your auto hubs manually. i dont think this can be done. please give me step by step instructions. i still say you cant do it unless you climb under and turn your drive shaft, this would lock them if they are working. to unlock manually you would havr to jack up the truck and spin the wheels backwards.
They look sort of like manuals, I just get my **** out of my Bronco and go to the hub and engage both sides and gets my **** back in the Bronco. My F250 SD used to have the similar ones until I replaced them after going through 2 sets. I would take pictures but my camera quit so I'm send it back to Nikon. When I get it back I will tack some pics. At the rate things are going on here no one will have auto hubs by the time I get my camera back!
Apparently the way people respond, there were more than one type of auto hub used by the Ford factories. Also, Warn makes a gadget to turn the hub to engage it, it sells for 10 bucks or so. I have never had trouble using my fingers to turn them so I don't have one.