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John, replace the darn thing with a manual 1356. The guts are the same. Just get the shifter from a boneyard. There should be a removalble plate on the driver side of the tranny hump for the lever to go through.
Thats what I going to do when I have to replace my current tcase. I'm also going to lash the oil pump so it doesn't fail prematurely.
RLH, that seems like a serious and smart thing to do! Could you give us some guidance about it?
Today with this coold weather I took apart that stupid motor, It was abolutely clean and neat, anyway.. I did follow everything that i found at http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/web/pages/tcase.html; I put it again but.... I am still stuck in 4wd the low range light is flashing and the 4x4 light is continuously on. Tomorrow I will take it apart again and manually turn it back to "2H" I hope I got success!
Does somebody knows where is may I found the Shift Computer Reset?
RLH, Is a manual 1356 the whole transfer case or parts ? Sounds like something I might be interested in doing. Ive had it already with the electric shift. Its great when it works but Im sick of not being able to use my 4 wheel drive when the oil in the trannys cold ! I was looking at fabing up some sort of control to replace the motor, but if I can change it over with minimal cost, that would work too.
John Pen, I'm not sure if there is a difference in the case or if its possible to add a shifter to the case where the motor goes. I'll compare my 2 trucks tomorrow. I have a manual tcase on my F250. I was planning looking for one in the junk yard and rebuilding it and securing the oil pump bracket and switching it out.
Where is the best place to get the gaskets for the shift motor? I need the one on the inside of the cap and for where it attaches to the transfer case. Can I get these at pepboys or autozone or something?
There wasn't a gasket between my motor and the xfer case; just the paper one for the cover for the motor. I doubt that you'd find that gasket at most auto parts stores; you'd probably want to get a sheet of gasket material and just cut something that fits.
Is it possible to make this change and if so, how would you go about it? Would you need a complete transfer case or just the manual components?
I don't like any thing about this push button shift deal. Also, can someone explain to me if I have a set of manual locking hubs and a push button 4X4 if the hubs need to be locked and then the button engaged? I guess someone made a switch to locking hubs because the owners manual says nothing about locking hubs with the push button. It refers to the push button as automatic. The truck is a 1990 Bronco 302 Eddie Bauer
I'm going to compare my 2 trucks. I haven't had them at home at the same time the past few days to compare them.
What I plan on doing is getting one from a junk yard with all the levers etc. and rebuilding it and then swapping them out.
Thats because of the oil pump glitch. Thats the only problem with the 1356 other than no modification parts available to reduce its ratio.
You've got automatic hubs if there is not a **** on them that you can turn. If you've got manual hubs, just lock the hubs and engage the 4WD with the pushbutton. The pushbutton only changes the transfer case; if you've got automatic hubs, they lock when the front axles start rotating.
ftrucktough seems to know the xfer case pretty well. I have a 91 full size Bronco with electric transfer case shift. It worked well until I replaced the transmission with a rebuilt Jasper. The tranny works fine, 4X4 high range goes in and out fine and the axlex engage without any problems. But I must now engage low range with the engine shut off or there is a lot of banging and grinding. Also when shifting from low to high range in 4X4 the transfer case slides into a neutral while driving. I must then go out of 4X4 and then back into 4X4 high range. Then it's ok. The transfer motor was bad and Ford replaced it---$389. Any help is appreciated.---Marquis
I was finally able to crawl under my F250 and look at its manual 1356. The manual shifter enters the front of the case wheel the electric motor is on the back of the case. So while the internal parts are the same, the case is different. I should have remembered that. I spend more time under my Bronco so I seem to know it better.
My plan is to get the case and shifter out of a junk yard and rebuild it and change it over and sell my electric one . . . maybe after rebuilding it.