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My dad has an 88 Bronco with manual hubs and a 351, mine is an 88 with auto hubs and a 302, manual hubs you get out of the truck, and turn the switch to lock them in (its in the middle of the wheel, its...pink on his) on automatic the hubs on mine are inclosed, and filled with grease pins and stuff, its the 4x4 auto-lock hubs, no way I can turn them on manually unless i get under the truck and use some muscle
Originally posted by Blade_62 My dad has an 88 Bronco with manual hubs and a 351, mine is an 88 with auto hubs and a 302, manual hubs you get out of the truck, and turn the switch to lock them in (its in the middle of the wheel, its...pink on his) on automatic the hubs on mine are inclosed, and filled with grease pins and stuff, its the 4x4 auto-lock hubs, no way I can turn them on manually unless i get under the truck and use some muscle
Maybe Ford's answer to the auto riliability problem was to put manual dials on the hubs. I've been known to talk about automotive engineers in French on more than occasion!!
Wow, so many messages. On the newer super dutys the hubs look just like the manual ones. They have that **** at the center of the wheel that shows two positions Auto and Lock. You can lock them manually or leave it automatic. The problem I am having is that on Auto they do not work but when I try to turn them manually I cant, they seem stuck. I read people talking about warn hubs or somethin. Any info?
Originally posted by jdevarie Wow, so many messages. On the newer super dutys the hubs look just like the manual ones. They have that **** at the center of the wheel that shows two positions Auto and Lock. You can lock them manually or leave it automatic. The problem I am having is that on Auto they do not work but when I try to turn them manually I cant, they seem stuck. I read people talking about warn hubs or somethin. Any info?
Thanks again!!
Yours sounds like the type I have. Obviously, it shouldn't be that hard to turn manually. Have you tryed auto engaging and then backing up, engage again while moving forward 3-5 mph? If that doesn't work, I would first try repacking the hubs like a routinge service and inspect the parts while its apart. If the parts seem o.k., repack it and put it back together...if damaged...replace the hubs with either Warn or Mile Marker manual hubs.
for those of you saying that your 4low flashes when your auto hubs engage isn't true, the 4low light flashes when it can't complete the transfer case shift due to too much gear clash (best to do this when moving VERY SLOWLY), foot not on brake pedal, and vehicle speed faster than about 3mph. there is NOTHING to tell whether or not the hubs are locked, unlocked, or even there. It's an entirely different system from the transfer case, along with all the buttons, lights, levers (if manual shift), etc...
Your transfercase motor could have moved slightly or there could be a worm gear thats in pieces inside it, I pulled the broken bushing out of mine and it works fine now.
Originally posted by ftrucktough for those of you saying that your 4low flashes when your auto hubs engage isn't true, the 4low light flashes when it can't complete the transfer case shift due to too much gear clash (best to do this when moving VERY SLOWLY), foot not on brake pedal, and vehicle speed faster than about 3mph. there is NOTHING to tell whether or not the hubs are locked, unlocked, or even there. It's an entirely different system from the transfer case, along with all the buttons, lights, levers (if manual shift), etc...
i hope this cleared that up.
Hey ftrucktough, if you go back and read my first post I said it flashes when it fails to engage...
In the fully electric system you first have to figure out if its the T-case or the hubs and the flashing low range is the only way to tell that they didn'g engage except for one to get one's **** out of the truck...and look at the hubs.
In the fully electric system you first have to figure out if its the T-case or the hubs and the flashing low range is the only way to tell that they didn'g engage except for one to get one's **** out of the truck...and look at the hubs.
rlh, like i said, the HUBS have nothing to do with that flashing light, if you were to remove your front axles, hubs, driveshaft, wheels, you could still completely engage the TRANSFER CASE into 4low, and the light won't flash. it will complete the shift. Hence, the reason you can have 2wd Low Range. You can complete a 4low shift, without engaging hubs (the manual ones), or if you have busted front ones. this comes in handy if you want to do roach tires easily. or have extra torgue on dry pavement while turning, without binding up the drivetrain.
ftrucktough, we were discussing electric 4x4 here. There are 2 lights! the 4x4 light tells you the thing is in 4wheel drive and the other for when its in 4wheel
If the autohubs don't engage automatically, the low rangelight WILL cause the low light tol flash. If you have autohubs an disengage them in 4x4 the will re-engage so the 2 wheel low thing don't work the way you said without manual hubs. The electric switches activate the t-case and autohubs.
There is only one motor, thank goodness!
There is an outside chance that someone already intalled manual hubs.
Hello all, for no reason that I can think off, the hubs in my truck are finally movable by hand. I guess that the 8 inches of the white stuff we got this weekend made it reconsider
I was able to move the hubs manually and everything was perfect, I even went to a nearby industrial area to play in the snow with it
I have not tried the auto yet but having 4x4 on a truck like that in the snow is priceless no matter if it is auto or manual.
Originally posted by rlh ftrucktough, we were discussing electric 4x4 here. There are 2 lights! the 4x4 light tells you the thing is in 4wheel drive and the other for when its in 4wheel
If the autohubs don't engage automatically, the low rangelight WILL cause the low light tol flash. If you have autohubs an disengage them in 4x4 the will re-engage so the 2 wheel low thing don't work the way you said without manual hubs. The electric switches activate the t-case and autohubs.
There is only one motor, thank goodness!
There is an outside chance that someone already intalled manual hu
bs.
the electric switches only engage the transfer case they have nothing to do with the auto hubs. when you hit the switch it engages the transfer case which in turn turns the front drive shaft , when the shaft turns the hubs will engage automatically. to un lock them the front driveshaft must stop turning and the vehicle must move in the oposite direction for aproxamately 10 feet.
if your light is flashing you have not engaged the low range of the transfercase the hubs can be locked or unlocked it will have no effect on the low range light.
Originally posted by BOJOFASO the electric switches only engage the transfer case they have nothing to do with the auto hubs. when you hit the switch it engages the transfer case which in turn turns the front drive shaft , when the shaft turns the hubs will engage automatically. to un lock them the front driveshaft must stop turning and the vehicle must move in the oposite direction for aproxamately 10 feet.
if your light is flashing you have not engaged the low range of the transfercase the hubs can be locked or unlocked it will have no effect on the low range light.
I didn't say it didn't engage the T-Case. The 4x4 button engages the T-case and the low range button shifts in into low range. ALL I SAID is my Bronco low range light flashes when on occasion the hubs don't lock. If thd hubs don't locck your not REALLY in 4 wheel drive. Both my Fords are off the road nearly every day.
BTW when you push the low range button the light either goes on solid or flashes. Completely off is high range!!!
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