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Old Jan 9, 2025 | 06:23 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by JKoski
I think I'll replace the IPR, then tackle the ICP since it's new.
I would order a new IPR (I see you already know to only purchase from a reputable source like Riffraff). And while waiting for the new part, would also take the faulty IPR back apart to see if I could get it going. If it works, great now you have a functioning spare; if it doesn’t work then you’re not out anything.

You could look over the ICP wiring. It’s possible the wires have an open hidden back under the loom.

I’d take whatever direction Cleatus recommends over my suggestions though!



 
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Old Jan 9, 2025 | 07:20 PM
  #17  
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Did you change the configuration of the ICPV PID so it actually reads volts? If you did a 0.0 volt reading is normal with the ICP sensor disconnected. Connected, it should read somewhere around 0.24 volts, key on engine off.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2025 | 12:34 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Pikachu
Did you change the configuration of the ICPV PID so it actually reads volts? If you did a 0.0 volt reading is normal with the ICP sensor disconnected. Connected, it should read somewhere around 0.24 volts, key on engine off.
Not yet. Going to do that today and check the wiring to the ICP. I'll post results later today. Thanks.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2025 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by cleatus12r
Settled then. IPR's coming back out. It shouldn't do anything but crank with the regulator valve unplugged.
Just ordered IPR from Riff Raff. I'll update after the install. Thanks for your help.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2025 | 03:54 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Pikachu
Did you change the configuration of the ICPV PID so it actually reads volts? If you did a 0.0 volt reading is normal with the ICP sensor disconnected. Connected, it should read somewhere around 0.24 volts, key on engine off.
I changed the PID to volts. ICP connected 2.2 volts .ICP disconnected 0.00 volts.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2025 | 05:48 PM
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Was the 2.2 volts with just the key on or while cranking?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2025 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Pikachu
Was the 2.2 volts with just the key on or while cranking?
Just with the KOEO.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2025 | 07:02 PM
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That says you probably have either a bad sensor or a short somewhere.​​​​​
 
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Old Jan 11, 2025 | 01:16 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Pikachu
That says you probably have either a bad sensor or a short somewhere.​​​​​
The ICP is new from Riff Raff. I still have the original old ICP which there was nothing wrong with it. Just age 26 years/455,000
miles. If the swap doesn't make a difference, I start looking for the short.
Thanks for your inputs.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2025 | 06:13 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by JKoski
The ICP is new from Riff Raff. I still have the original old ICP which there was nothing wrong with it. Just age 26 years/455,000
miles. If the swap doesn't make a difference, I start looking for the short.
Thanks for your inputs.
First, just make sure you didn't misplace the decimal point and it's 2.2 volts, not actually 0.22 volts. It'd suck to start tearing into wiring harnesses because of a mistake like that.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2025 | 06:45 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Pikachu
First, just make sure you didn't misplace the decimal point and it's 2.2 volts, not actually 0.22 volts. It'd suck to start tearing into wiring harnesses because of a mistake like that.
I'll check again. I'm pretty sure it was 2.2 volts. I hate wiring issues. I have a Mazda 5 with a wiring problem. But the truck comes first.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 02:17 PM
  #27  
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Hello to all,

Today was a great success as the truck is back up and running. This morning, I replaced the IRP with one from RiffRaff. The ICP issue is gone and the DTCs are no longer there. Here's the Forscan results:
ICPV .22 Volts, IPR 14.84% and ICP PSI 0.00 KOEO. ICP Connected.

Disconnected ICP 0.00 Volts and ICPV 0.00 Volts KOEO.

Engine running: ICP 470-485 PSI, IPR 13.28%-11.33% and ICPV at .80Volts.

Big thanks to all who provided guidance and helpful suggestions. I happy it's running again with no codes.

Jeff
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 07:08 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by JKoski
First let me say, the old adage is true: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. My truck is an early 99 7.3. 455,000 miles and was running ok. I decided to do some maintenance and decided on replacing the ICP and the IPR. I was surprised by the cost of an IPR so I decided to rebuild it instead of replacing it. I ordered the ICP and IPR rebuild kit from RiffRaff. The parts arrived and I went to work. I pulled the IRP out and following the instructions found at Custom Works (You Tube) I disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt the IPR and installed. Next, I removed and installed the new ICP. Started the truck and I have to say, it did start much better. But after about 5 seconds, the engine started to romp, romp, romp, sounded and felt like I had a racing cam installed. The engine set 3 codes. P2111 ICP higher/lower than desired. P1209 ICP pressure peak fault and P1282 IPR excessive pressure.

I contacted Clay at Riffraff and he stated there is air in the system and the truck needs to have some miles put on to purge the air. I took the truck out and drove it 20 miles Highway up to 70 MPH and then a backroad up to 55MPH and returned home. The engine still has the romp. I did notice improved engine performance. However, at idle I still have that engine romp. I pulled the OBD codes. The only code left is the P1211.

I called Clay again and he suggested to unplug the ICP which I did and in doing so, that made no difference. Question: Is the ICP bad? Where do I go from here? I do have the Forscan software loaded in the computer. I'm looking for some direction here to solve.

Help is always appreciated.
Jeff
Good to hear you got everything fixed and running. All I can add now is to be careful watching that Custom Works Clown. He falls under the 1/3's law. About 1/3 of what he says is correct, another 1/3 is almost correct, and the last 1/3 I'm pretty sure he just makes the eff up. The trouble is unless you know, you don't know which 1/3 is which.
 
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