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So I got this 91 f350 7.3l idi, had no drive gears, but only reverse. Anyway, E4OD truck originally, bought a 2000 4r100 from a dude for nothing , what all do I need to make this work, he has another trans I'm going to see if it's a E4OD or another 4r100, I've heard early 99 4r100 will bolt right up and work fine but I'm not sure. Someone let me know I'm on a very extreme budget.,
An early '99 from a diesel will bolt up, except that the torque converter won't bolt up. It has six studs and your flexplate has four holes. If the trans is not from a diesel it won't work at all.
To make the later one work, first, it needs to be from a diesel. Then you need to change the torque converter to one that has four studs. Then you need to pull the pump out and reduce one orifice from -.250" to 0.030". If you decide to do this I can find a description of which orifice this is. Next. you need to change the solenoid body to a 1989-1994 E4OD solenoid body. The 2000 transmission will have speed sensors, you can just ignore them. Leave them in the trans to plug the holes in the case.
Are both trucks 2wd or 4wd too? Did you manually shift into 1 or 2? Still no forward motion?
Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
An early '99 from a diesel will bolt up, except that the torque converter won't bolt up. It has six studs and your flexplate has four holes. If the trans is not from a diesel it won't work at all.
To make the later one work, first, it needs to be from a diesel. Then you need to change the torque converter to one that has four studs. Then you need to pull the pump out and reduce one orifice from -.250" to 0.030". If you decide to do this I can find a description of which orifice this is. Next. you need to change the solenoid body to a 1989-1994 E4OD solenoid body. The 2000 transmission will have speed sensors, you can just ignore them. Leave them in the trans to plug the holes in the case.
Explain the orifice thing, I could do it , just need instruction
So just drill it out, easy, and what do I use for a cup plug? Is that something I can get easy or?
Another thing, can I use the converter from the E4OD or do I have to get a different flywheel from a 4r100 truck since it's a 6 bolt conv, the one that came out of it with the e4 was a 4 bolt.
Have you done much trans work Zhen? That mod will require you to pull the front pump and split it in half to modify it. If you've never done this, post back for detailed instructions. If you haven't done this before, say so because if you pry that pump out against the rib you could ruin your trans for good and parts will slide out on you, if the trans isn't standing on it's tail or at least tipped way up, so they can't slide out. Then there's lining the pump back up after it's modified. The bolt holes and the case need to be lined up perfectly.
If you haven't done any of this, be sure to say so. We can help you avoid major issues before you start.
This is very advanced trans work. If you need some help, say so before you start.
Have you done much trans work Zhen? That mod will require you to pull the front pump and split it in half to modify it. If you've never done this, post back for detailed instructions. If you haven't done this before, say so because if you pry that pump out against the rib you could ruin your trans for good and parts will slide out on you, if the trans isn't standing on it's tail or at least tipped way up, so they can't slide out. Then there's lining the pump back up after it's modified. The bolt holes and the case need to be lined up perfectly.
If you haven't done any of this, be sure to say so. We can help you avoid major issues before you start.
This is very advanced trans work. If you need some help, say so before you start.
I've done some trans work. I'ma mechanic daily but never anything super advanced transmission wise atleast on something like this , I can do redo dcts and most manual transmissions but haven't dug super far into auto, I've got a grasp but some detail would be nice. I've got a puller for the pump and all the gaskets, watched a few vids and have a book on e4s, again tho some detail or tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated. Also again what do I use for a cup plug ECT.
I'll let Mark answer where you, where to get the plug from, either the kit or perhaps your current E4OD pump, since it claims the E4OD already has one? I've got guesses only. I haven't messed with a 4R100 pump before.
Well that's good. So you don't need to be told not to pry against the trans and snap off the cross support, since you have the correct tools to to remove it.
So you'll pull the pan so you can pull the filter.
Be sure the trans is standing on it's tail, before you unbolt the pump, so parts don't fall out. (I've got this t-shirt!)
Split the pump, take note of the pump gears, don't let them fall out.
Do as the instructions say and as Mark instructs to mod the pump.
After the pump has been modified, when you place it back together, you'll notice a lot of play in the bolt holes. Take extra time, to center them by twisting the pump cover to get it just right.
At the same time, you're lining up the bolt holes, you need to very carefully, line up the cover to the pump bottom also. They make a large clamp for this, you can try to find a super large clamp to work, but I found if you really take your time, you can feel all around the two halves, very, very closely and carefully by hand and get it spot on too....but it takes a while. You're not a trans shop where time is money, so just take the time. When both the bolts and the case are centered perfectly, you'll know.......If you don't know, keep feeling and looking until you do.
Once it's back together, it's just a matter of bolting back down in with a new gasket. Just be sure the trans remains up on it's tail the whole time, while the pump is out. Sounds like you got this no problem.
If Mark tells you to rob the plug from your E4OD pump, look it over while it's split. It might be just fine. Lift the gears straight up and look where they ride in the pump housing for any excessive ware. If you don't see any, you might just want to try using your E4OD's pump as it is. If it doesn't look so hot, inspect the 4R100's the same way and if it's good, then go ahead with modding that or replacing the pump with a reman if both are worn hard under the gears.........and if you need to get a reman, get a E40D "F5" pump. It's a '95+ higher volume.
Oh, and the removal of the "TCC valve train". You'll see which ones you'll need to pull out, once the pump is split. Look down into the bore to see which row of valves are in your way, and you'll see on the outside of the pump how to slide them out;
This is just random, I don't remember what I was doing here. Boost valve mod I guess. Keep everything lined up. Then of course if you drill anything down in there, you'll need to spray it out well, but if your getting a plug to put down in there, drill it first (or maybe if you use one from the E4 pump, you wont be drilling at all, just placing it down in anyway?) But point being, don't lose anything and clean up well.
Have you done much trans work Zhen? That mod will require you to pull the front pump and split it in half to modify it. If you've never done this, post back for detailed instructions. If you haven't done this before, say so because if you pry that pump out against the rib you could ruin your trans for good and parts will slide out on you, if the trans isn't standing on it's tail or at least tipped way up, so they can't slide out. Then there's lining the pump back up after it's modified. The bolt holes and the case need to be lined up perfectly.
If you haven't done any of this, be sure to say so. We can help you avoid major issues before you start.
This is very advanced trans work. If you need some help, say so before you start.
Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
I'll let Mark answer where you, where to get the plug from, either the kit or perhaps your current E4OD pump, since it claims the E4OD already has one? I've got guesses only. I haven't messed with a 4R100 pump before.
Well that's good. So you don't need to be told not to pry against the trans and snap off the cross support, since you have the correct tools to to remove it.
So you'll pull the pan so you can pull the filter.
Be sure the trans is standing on it's tail, before you unbolt the pump, so parts don't fall out. (I've got this t-shirt!)
Split the pump, take note of the pump gears, don't let them fall out.
Do as the instructions say and as Mark instructs to mod the pump.
After the pump has been modified, when you place it back together, you'll notice a lot of play in the bolt holes. Take extra time, to center them by twisting the pump cover to get it just right.
At the same time, you're lining up the bolt holes, you need to very carefully, line up the cover to the pump bottom also. They make a large clamp for this, you can try to find a super large clamp to work, but I found if you really take your time, you can feel all around the two halves, very, very closely and carefully by hand and get it spot on too....but it takes a while. You're not a trans shop where time is money, so just take the time. When both the bolts and the case are centered perfectly, you'll know.......If you don't know, keep feeling and looking until you do.
Once it's back together, it's just a matter of bolting back down in with a new gasket. Just be sure the trans remains up on it's tail the whole time, while the pump is out. Sounds like you got this no problem.
If Mark tells you to rob the plug from your E4OD pump, look it over while it's split. It might be just fine. Lift the gears straight up and look where they ride in the pump housing for any excessive ware. If you don't see any, you might just want to try using your E4OD's pump as it is. If it doesn't look so hot, inspect the 4R100's the same way and if it's good, then go ahead with modding that or replacing the pump with a reman if both are worn hard under the gears.........and if you need to get a reman, get a E40D "F5" pump. It's a '95+ higher volume.
Ok nothing too hard, I'll wait for his response, now can I use the E4OD pump, will it work and shift good, I've read around a little and there's mentions of it shifting super duper hard if you just swap pump? Not sure tho haven't got a direct answer on that. I'll still inspect them but if I don't need to do unnecessary work then I won't lol.
It should shift just like an E4OD with your 89-94 solenoid pack and an E4OD pump (and as Mark already explained your 4 stud converter too of course). Mark might be able to explain what peoples issues are there. I'm not up on the 4R100 swap issues. Maybe they tried keeping their 4R100 solenoid pack, with the E40D pump and that's what caused them harsh lockup? I dunno about that, but I'd suspect they probably didn't match stuff up....But I've only got guesses to what they might have done......In fact, I bet that's just what they did.
The PWM torque converter solenoid in the 4R100 body is not compatible with the 1996 PCM. That's why you have to use an E4OD solenoid body.
You won't be able to get the cup plug out of the E4OD pump. I think a good trans supply store would have one, but I have never looked for one on it's own. I've purchased kits that had them.
I don't know if the E4OD pump will work or not. I suspect it will, but I don't know for sure.
You don't need to change the flex plate, because as the instructions I posted stated you need to use an E4OD converter, not a 4R100 converter. The lockup clutch is different and the 4R100 converter won't last long in an E4OD system.
I've always heard about the Transgo kit that converts a 4R100 pump to E4OD on/off lockup, but I also just noticed, they don't recommend using this for triple disc converters. I don't remember reading that before. This is the only kit I heard that does this, so I always thought you had to change out the valves too. Maybe this kit here is designed just for 4R100's who keep their solenoid packs in their trucks? (no, they'd have to change to the old solenoid no matter what, wouldn't they?)
I know nothing first hand about this. I've always said, if I were to ever use a 4R100, I would just swap in an E4OD pump, mod it with the trans go tugger kit (not this shown here).
The PWM torque converter solenoid in the 4R100 body is not compatible with the 1996 PCM. That's why you have to use an E4OD solenoid body.
You won't be able to get the cup plug out of the E4OD pump. I think a good trans supply store would have one, but I have never looked for one on it's own. I've purchased kits that had them.
I don't know if the E4OD pump will work or not. I suspect it will, but I don't know for sure.
You don't need to change the flex plate, because as the instructions I posted stated you need to use an E4OD converter, not a 4R100 converter. The lockup clutch is different and the 4R100 converter won't last long in an E4OD system.
So what im gathering i need to take the e4od solenoid, pump, and converter and throw them in the 4r100 and it'll work In the truck? Right?
