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Yes there could be a slight chance, if you do not see any leakage now not sure I would worry about it.
The bigger issue will be if you can get the broken piece out without pulling the head. I would measure the head thickness and see what you are dealing with as far as getting a long enough drill bit. You can measure the thread depth on the stud when you get it and that will tell you how far you might possibly have to go into the block and then you will need enough height above the head to get a drill tightened down onto the bit. If you make a guide I would make it the length of the head and that should keep the bit centered. You will probably have to have that made on a metal lathe so the hole will stay centered in the guide. Or you might be able to adapt some DOM tubing.
It will also depend on how tight that broken piece is in the block, reason I recommend a left hand bit as hopefully it will catch and screw out for you.
I had a wheel lug broke off in a farm tractor hub this spring. I did not have much room to work. Two options pull the wheel assembly or try and drill it out. I had nothing to loose trying to drill it so made a pilot guide to keep the bit centered. The stars where aligned correctly I guess as the bit did catch in the broken bolt and in my case it screwed out of the hub on the back side as it was not a blind hole and I was using a normal direction bit. Saved about 6 hours of work over pulling the duals.
I ordered a 3/8" reverse drill bit, and a steel busing with 1/2" outer diameter, and 3/8" inner diameter. Hopefully I can use the bushing to guide the drill bit to the center of the stud and pull it out. I'll probably need a right angle drill for this job though, even with the fender liner out. I like to just get a stud in it for now an look to pulling the motor once winter is over.
x2 on attempting to remove the broken head stud with the engine cold. Make sure you spray the stud with plenty of PB Blaster, Kroil, etc. before trying to use the extractor. I think your biggest hurdle will be trying to get that broken stud out with the engine still installed.
Good luck!
It was warm today and I had the time so I decided to attempt removing the broken stud with a left hand drill bit. I used a 3/8, with a guide bushing to get me started. It didn't take much effort for the stud to loosen up and start pulling out, although I had been soaking it in pentro for weeks. Unfortunately the drill didn't loosen it entirely, I had to use a small flat head screw driver and turn it about 1 turn. This was only possible because the stud broke and left a good surface on the outer diameter to push against with a screw driver. Once loose I flooded the hole with pentro and used a magnet stick that had a small diameter head to pull it out. Flushed the hole with brake cleaner and compressed air. Then installed a replacement stud that was sent to me at 125 ft/lbs. That raised lip is what I grabbed with the flat head to push against. Installed and torqued following supplied instructions.
Truck is running good so far no issues, now I get to enjoy my freshly swapped in Dana 60.
Glad to hear the stars were aligned for you. Given what you went through and now that it is behind you if you had to do the same job again would you pull the engine and tear down or attempt repairing in place.
Glad to hear the stars were aligned for you. Given what you went through and now that it is behind you if you had to do the same job again would you pull the engine and tear down or attempt repairing in place.
If another breaks I'm pulling the engine and putting in ARP studs. One being defective is possible, but if another breaks I can't trust the rest. I honestly still might replace the rest in the future anyhow just for peace of mind.
