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1995 f250 5.8xl 4x4 reg cab long box
It started this morning with a hard start and then a very slow crank and no start. I jumped it off another truck and got it going to Napa where I had them test the alternator and that was fine so I got a battery and replaced it at work. Still no start. So I figured out the ground off the battery to the frame was toast. Drove to the parts store and got a generic ground but couldn’t get the bolt out of the frame. The side from the frame to the engine is fine so I temporarily ran it to the new radiator support mount I put in and bolted it to the frame. I think it’ll be fine and starts up fine but I’d like to hear of one of the knowledgeable folks on the forum. I’m thinking the frame is one big ground so I’ll be fine.
one thing I’m noticing is my battery light is coming on periodically but my voltage gauge is right up where it should be. It’ll get me home I’m sure but why would it not be working? I guess charging?
this is where the old wire broke off and the wire runs from here to the engine
I was starting it to go get the new ground by holding the frayed end of the wire to the frame while someone else cranked it.
Drove home and my battery light will not come off. I don’t understand how going to the frame in a different location would change anything
I let it idle for a bit after the drive and the light still won’t come off. No change on the c
volt gauge
that bolt that the original one went to has no intention of coming out
Looks like it is charging, hard to say with those guages. I’d double check with a volt meter on the battery terminal, not the battery wire terminal ends. See what you’re getting to the battery, and at the end of the wire. Also check your alternator. Amazon has real cheap volt meters now that plug into your power port of cigarette lighter outlet.
Clean the battery terminals, and that new ground. Should work there just as well, as long as it is a good ground, not dirty behind that washer, only making a partial (high resistance) ground. Although the starter obviously works.
How is the ground on the engine block? Lower right hand forward side.
I’ve seen many funny electrical problems, due to bad or partial grounds.
That original frame ground should eventually come out, keep soaking it in penetrating oil, from below too. Eventually you’ll get it. On the other hand, if you break the head off, it’s an awkward spot to drill and tap down there. You can use an easy out socket, or sacrifice a socket, slightly smaller and drive it onto it if you had too - sometime that will split the socket.
Your factory ground cable has a pig-tail that goes to the fender, feeds the main harness & gives all the under-hood electrical, lights & computer a ground path before going in the cab.
The main cable goes to a strap around a bare, soldered part of the cable & attaches to the frame before going to the block.
Counting on just the frame ground is known failure point in this gen.
Interesting to note the frame ground for trailer wiring, didn’t know that. Although, my ‘96 does not have the factory towing package.
Afaik, this is how my ‘96 was from the factory. The frame mounted ground is not listed in the EVTM ground listings either.
Ground runs from block (G103) to frame (where OP’s seized bolt is). Then from that same ground point to the battery.
The battery is grounded from the negative terminal to the RH fender ground (G101).
Whether the frame is grounded at the same point, shouldn’t matter, as long as the block is grounded to the frame. Although, preferable, I’d rather have them grounded at the same point.
That’s interesting. I still had the pig tail grounded to the fender and she wouldn’t start unless I grounded the bigger negative cable to the frame manually while someone else turned the ignition. I think where I mounted it to the radiator support mount but I didn’t clean the frame up and there probably some of that frame coating preventing a good connection. Possibly why I’m getting the battery light still. This morning it fired right up in the cold no problem, battery light was off but came back on, on the drive in. It still has the original frame to block ground that is in good shape.
On the new cable I got it had a smaller ground wire for the fender that I spliced the old circle clip onto and mounted in the original spot. I even sanded the area to make sure that ground was good recently because the inner fender was just painted
thank you for the diagrams and replies. I’m gonna clean the temporary frame ground and see if that stops the battery light from coming on, till I have time to remove the inner fender liner and get at the stubborn bolt, heat and extract.
do they sell oem ford grounds with that soldered piece that runs battery-frame-block? Or am I gonna have to crimp up my own creation with a long generic wire. I don’t like how the generic ones have a thinner gauge wire running to the fender than the oem unless that doesn’t matter as my as I think thanks again
Yes, I believe Ford has discontinued them but may find them on EBAY occasionally.
I have no experience with these but there are others who have used these replacements made by Standard Motor Products:
P/N A584CLT 85/90 Bronco,88/91 F series
and
P/N A444CLT 92/94 Bronco, 92/94 F series and 1995F350
The neg battery cable SMP has listed for 95/97 models does NOT have the frame clip. My guess is the 94 part would fit the 95-97HD trucks too but compare first and do your homework.
Not sure if the model year listing is all inclusive....
I would run your aftermarket ground directly to the block. Then after you get the bolt out of the frame, use a split bolt like this one, to splice a jumper wire in parallel to the main ground, to the frame. Coat the wires and the entire split bolt in antioxidant before you tighten it, or coat the entire connection in dielectric grease after you tighten it.
The starter gets it's ground through the engine block. That's why you had starting issues.
I've run my truck since 2015 without a frame ground, and I'm the "check your grounds guy". The engine block ground can affect the entire ignition system and the fuel pump circuit.
The frame ground is actually a bonding jumper, to make sure the frame and engine block are the same potential electrically.
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