Has anyone installed a remote brake light switch to the pedal of a 1953-55 F100? Just upgraded the master cylinder and the kit moved the pressure switch to the brake line. I have had so many leaks and bad switches I have given up! I want to add a remote switch to the pedal and run a strait brake line so maybe I will not have any more leaks.

Thanks

Will

 

https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/br...ightswitch.htm

 

Thanks, looked at the brake switches and found Standard Motor Products SLS40 Stoplight Switch on Amazon for $20.00.

I saw this video of how to install the switch, seems easy enough and save a lot of headaches with the pressure switches.


Might post some pics when I get it done.

Thanks

Will

 

anyone ever use a switch like this with a frame mount master cylinder? I considered it but could not come up with a good solution then got in a hurry and just used the pressure switch, the first one lasted about 6 months, easy to replace except when you are out road tripping somewhere with a lowered truck.

 

Master cylinder location makes no difference. The switch is activated by pedal movement. With stock pedals, you can mount it on the outside of the firewall toe board between the pedal arm and the firewall so as the pedal is depressed, the switch arm movement triggers the lights.

 

I mounted mine on the firewall, engine side. it sits between the firewall and the brake arm. Down low, you don't see it unless you want to play hide and go seek. One of the better things I have done along with getting rid of the pressure switch that leaked and didn't work good.

 

As a guy that has gone through 2 pressure type brake switches one a low pressure from now defunt Mid -Fifty , I have often wondered if old, moisture, contaminated brake fluid hastened their demise. Just wondering if flushing out old brake fluid with new (which is good maintenance) would help after changing the mechanical ones.

 

In the early 90s we had a car come into the shop I worked at and the maintenance called brake fluid flush. I had never heard of that nor anyone else at the shop or parts house. We did it and moved on but I do not ever remember hearing it again.

I do know the in-line switches will not work properly with synthetic fluids. And with the way I do break lines mine will always have fresh fluid as well as the floor of my shop.

 

I've had a pressure switch in my truck with synthetic fluid for probably 30 years. I replaced it I think 2 years ago because it wasn't working not leaking just wasn't getting continuity when I stepped on the pedal. I got the new on from Auto Zone still working good.

 

I had no problems with mine for many years. When I upgraded my brakes with a CCP unit the inline pressure switch they sent me had clear instructions not to use synthetic. Cannot remember the brand name but it looked the same.

 

I pulled the trigger and the install went very smoothly. The monster of a construction that came with the upgraded brake system had a lot of parts and custom lines, the more parts the more chance of a leak.

- Used Standard SLS40 pressure switch. One hot wire on one side and when the lever comes up just under a 1/2” you get power to the other side. The unit is small and operates smoothly
​​​​​​- I took out the pressure switch portion and made a one piece brake line replacement, no leaks
- The mounting was easy, #8 sheet metal screws, fit the holes in the switch and not too long, went under the brake pedal arm like a glove.i could have went farther but there is a slight ridge and the arm was far enough to work with no over extension or jamming
- Then I extended the wires from the master cylinder to the new switch, cover in conduit and zip ties.
- Tested and it works great. The pedal travels far enough the switch comes on before the brakes actually engaged fully. The break light should come in with dry little travel, if it only comes on when engaged fully you can have issues.

Will buy a replacement in case they stop making this switch but it was 30 minutes and done.



Replacement brake line, very easy to make. Looks like a pinch but it is only the angle

Switch under brake pedal arm with connectors

Closer look at switch

 

The one I had failed on a new build where every single brake part was 6 months old.