If I were to make a "T" conection in the brake line on my 66 f100. between the front line on the new MC and the proportioning valve, and install in this tee the brake light switch from the old MC. Should this work properly? If this should work ok then should the wiring from the switch on the proportiooning be wired to the two wires to the brake light switch? Note the thread size on my 66 brake line fittings are 24 threads in one inch and the threads on the brake light are 27 threads in one inch . These are the treads that will be threaded in the tee. thanks f100tough

 

Not sure what you're trying to accomplish by doing this..........where was the brake-light switch originally?

Steve

 

Floyd, Are ya doing the pdb upgrade? The single bowl switches are pressure operated and the newer ones on the pedal inside of the cab are electric. They have a slide switch in the end of them.

John

 

Read my reply to you over at Slick 60's.

 

Imagine will receive number of suggestions. Made the P/B swap on my 65. Purchased a T connector at Napa parts. Took the connector and tapped for thread that would accept the pressure switch thread. Think it was 1/4 by 18, but check first. Removed forward line and threaded the male leg of T connector into the manifold. Reconnected the line going to the front disc brake into the female leg of T connector, then installed the pressure switch into rethreaded leg of T connector. Used the same wiring. A lesson learned, do not remove the electrical switch from replacement manifold, very fine threads and may not be able to reinstall. I now have a small leak from removing the switch and will have to replace the manifold. Anyhow, found this worked for me, good luck!

dave

 

Ok making up-grade to front disk and planing dont want to use electrical switch . planing to use a tee inline on brake line and use the original brake light switch that was located on ole single m/c. thank all you fellows, got the info I needed.

 

Dave you have just answered my questions and see you have already worked it out. I'm very new to this old ford stuff. I have the swap made on the spindles and all lines in and the power booster in all I needed to do was the switch, I think it would be much simpler to use the pressure switch than the electrical switch. thank you for your time and input. Happy motoring ,floyd

 

f100tough -- I posted over at Slick 60s as well, but I will expound here. Assuming you have a manual tranny, the clutch arm comes very close to your steering column. A plunger style electrical switch can be straped to the column with a hose clamp and it will be safer and easier than the pressure swtich. If you possess basic welding skills or know someone who can, then take a 4" piece of 2" pipe, cut it into quarters, weld a tab on one end and drill a hole in the tab for your switch. Hoseclamps hold the thing in place on the column, and its very secure. Or just hoseclamp the thing in place with no bracket at all.

Keep the following in mind -- when a pressure switch fails, you have NO brake lights. When a plunger type switch fails, usually it breakes and the light come on and STAY on. The later is safer. Even if you use duct tape to hold the thing on the column, it will be safer than the pressure setup.

Just my personal opinions, but there was a lot of good reasoning why pressure type switches were abandoned.

 

Fellers I got a question, Where ya gonna mount the pressure switch? The pressure switch is in the master cylinder on his truck and the new dual bowl that he is going to does not have a place to put one. There is a simular looking receptical there, that is for the warning light.

I kept my original pedal and don't recall where the bracket came from that I bolted the frame to move the switch inside.

John

 

Using a T connector. Tap 1 of the female fittings to accept the oil pressure switch. Then install T connector on the manifold, or portion valve, inline with the front disc line, believe passenger side. Connect the front disc brake line and done. Took me about 1/2 hour once got tools together. Installed the setup on 1 of my 65's about 10 yrs ago and have not had any problems. Recently made upgrade on other 65 using same brake switch method and seems okay. Installing electrical switch on peddle assembly probably better setup, but decided to go w/ pressure switch.

 

FBp expounded on this some time ago...big safety factor with electrical switch because you adjust so it turns b/lites on with minimal pedal movement. The pressure type switch will not activate b/lites until the pressure rises enough from the m/c, which might be after the brakes begin slowing you down. IOW, you are slowing down without your brake lights showing that!!

 

I'll be going through a disc brake conversion soon on my '66. Just so I understand the issues raised by this (and other brake threads) thread, for those who have done the conversion, I thought most used the later model electric switch system from the mid-70's donor vehicle? For this should I not use the donor trucks break pedal system with the electric switch built in and then I assume I need to splice it into my wiring harness brake circuit. I read through the tech article and multiple searches and this topic was not very well covered. The best I've seen in the mongrelmotorsports article - he used the GM style brake switch. What's the best/easiest way that most follow/recommend as I have the flexibility now to prepare for it?

Thanks,
dagger

 

Dagger -- you don't even have to splice into the wiring. You pull the brake light leads back into the cab, and solder/crimp some bullet connectors onto a short set of "pigtails" from your new plunger switch. The logical place to "splice" in the new swtich is exactly where the old one was. Just move the leads a little!!

If you are doing a truck with a manual tranny, the brake pedal arm comes very close to the steering column. I just made a bracket to hold the plunger swtich in the right place (you'll see, once you have the plunger switch in hand). I got the switch for a 69-72 Ford truck. Cost like $4 new. Why use 35 y/o stuff when new costs so little?

I don't know if FBP originally talked about the issue of time delay and the need for pressure to rise in the system before the lights go on, or if it was me. In any case, I consider myself in good company that he likes the mechanical, under the dash switches as well. The key issue is the following: How often do you take your foot off the gas and just lightly rest your foot on the brake pedal? Many times each day. You, the driver, are seeing something up ahead and you are thinking "better get prepared to brake if I need to". Well, in the best scenario, the fellow behind you sees your brake lights and "sees" the same thing you are seeing.

With pressure activated switches, the guy behind you never sees your lights till you actually stomp on the brakes. With a properly adjusted plunger swtiched working off the pedal, your lights go on as soon as the pedal moves a 1/4" under the weight of you foot, BEFORE you actually brake.

From a safety standpoint, you want your brake lights to come on before you actually brake. Sounds impossible, but it actually is possible sometimes.

 

To anyone wishing to retain the pressure switch I recommend loosely threading the switch in and have someone hold a bit of pressure on the pedal. While they are doing that carefully tap on the switch or side of master cylinder (if so mounted). What the goal is is to get any possible air pocket to pass into the leaking fluid stream. I came up with this idea when I noticed a fairly big delay in lighting after a master install. Air gives a spongy switch as well as a brake pedal.

Too bad we and our trucks are forced to compete in this crazy, empty headed, cell phone, airbag laden driving situation of today. Everyone is so safe they no longer have to THINK. Whats more dangerous the 65 Ford with no seatbelts, in cab gas tank, and slow brake lights or the oblivious cell phone addict who seems to be in a hurry to get wherever they they are going. Between the phone and the nighborhood shaking sound system these people have no clue whats going on around them. Also I think people speed to church on Sunday nowadays. NOBODY seems to acknowledge there is a speed limit. What a whacked out world we are living in.

Greg

 

Greg ------- feel better now? Good tip on bleeding the pressure type switch.

cdherman - that's good news - easier than I was beginning to think. I have an automatic (converted from a 4-speed) and will probably switch the brake pedal unit as well - that should fix the rod length issue I believe. The brake pedal electronic switches were used in '65/'66 Mustangs and worked exactly as you say (about 1/4" travel and the would come on). I don't understand why Ford didn't use them on all their vehicles/trucks?

Thanks,
dagger