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I’d like to convert my 1954 ford F600 to a 12 volt positive ground system with an electronic distributor. It’s my understanding that the OEM generator produces more than 12 volts and is downregulated for the 6 volt system. So seems a different voltage regulator would be the best solution. Otherwise can anyone advise me on the best kits/products out there. I plan to incorporate a few 12 to 6 volt regulators for the instrument cluster and horns and probably other items. Thanks in advance for your time and advice! John
Best advice is don't convert. There are few good reasons for converting a stock truck to 12V. A well maintained 6V system is just as good as a well maintained 12V system. I feel that those who boast "performance improvements" with their new 12V systems with new battery, charging apparatuses, new wires etc are comparing to a rundown 6V system. The 6V system would have the same improvements if all the same items were refreshed (and probably for a little less $$$ too)... make sure your 6V system is serviced with good thick battery/starter/ground cables, the generator is lubed and has decent brushes, and that the regulator is within spec.
A lot of guys here will tell you not to convert to 12 volts. And I am one of them.
Unless you are adding a lot of electrical devices a good 6 volt system will do you just fine.
New 6 volt components and a good 6 volt battery will spin your starter as fast as a 12 volt system.
You need new 00 gauge cables. Cables from positive battery post to frame for ground, cable from negative post to starter solenoid and cable from from solenoid to starter.
Make sure your cable connections are clean and free if rust and paint.
My 54 is 6 volt and starts with just a touch of the starter button. Others will chime in also.
More: if your cables are old but thick and look good on the outside you still should buy new 00 gauge cables. Many times the inside of the cables are corroded and conduct less amperage.
Love the green trucks – but also love my pumpkin-mobile. Thanks for the advice!
I like that advice. Cables are original. I will replace those. The truck struggles to start but runs fantastic. Seems it struggles and then – Pow! – Cranks right up. Battery is 5 years old. Any advice on the best 6 volt battery to buy for this application and from where?
Carb is rebuilt and was in good condition.
Lots of air and some smoke from the oil cap/vent. When slowing down using low gears it seems the compression is low. Will check it.
Looks to have newer heads based on the color. Was owned by Michigan DOT.
Previous owner power washed the engine bay - blasted a lot of wire insulation off. I plan to re-wire. Also needs all rubber and gaskets replaced. I’ve been working on that. Will most likely rebuild motor but not right now. Leaks oil all over and from tranny too but runs too good to fool with for now.
Also needs complete brake rebuild. One rear caliper is leaking. Brake shoes look to be hard to find/expensive.
Plan to keep interior and exterior as-is except for functionality repairs, insulation under the new headliner and a few other places I can hid it, and future rust prevention. Would like to reupholster seat and replace all glass, door windows need new pieces with rubber – rattles like my brain.
I’ll be asking specific questions as I work through it. Will post more photos when its daylight.
I’m in the humidity capital of the world out on the Olympic peninsula. I would like to convert the distributer to electronic. Points seem to last only 6 months out here. This is something I need advice on today – thanks!
Your truck doesn't have calipers - it has wheel cylinders. They can be rebuilt easily enough. Brake shoes were/are not replaced. They are relined by your localish clutch/brake shop.
The blow by from the oil filler could be a tired engine (rebuild in the future) or it could be that the rings just need to reseat themselves through a couple of engine heat cycles.
Many use the pertronix ignition conversion kits. They work great when they work, but are sensitive and expensive to replace compared to traditional ignition parts. In my fleet, I run traditional points and have a supply that will outlast me for less than the cost of the pertronix conversion. Traditional points systems need to be run - not sit around. If they sit too long, they will need a light cleaning which easily can be accomplished with a points file tool, folded sand paper, or even a dollar bill.
As for the offer of 48 F-6 parts, I'm always on the lookout to save them from scrap. I'd take the whole truck off your hands, but it appears we are on opposite coasts, so I think logistics just are not reasonable.
I’m 59 and I'm no pro when it comes to automotive work, but I’ll try to fix most anything – not just autos. My dad taught me to try to fix it before you throw it away – you can always toss it if it ends up in a basket - and you’ll always learn something by trying. I work slowly and meticulously – everything gets spotlessly cleaned and repainted if needed/appropriate. - But that’s not a substitute for knowledge and experience. That’s why I’m on the board. Thanks
Is your engine a 6 cylinder or a V8? If you have an original 239 V8 y block, the distributor is a one year only 13 tooth distributor. Not an easy swap to a more modern distributor. The original distributor is matched to the carburetor vacuum signal.
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