When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
72 f250 302
Hey guys I need some assistance setting up my carburetor. The carb that was on my truck was a motocraft 2150 2bbl and nothing was hooked up, and everything was seized. So I bought a cheap replica off Amazon as I’m just trying to get this truck to drive around my property for now.
Ive got throttle and choke sorted out, but I need help with the vacuum lines. What hose goes where and what ones do I cap off on the carburetor? I’m hoping someone has a diagram available.
Cheers!
Is the engine equipped with all its original equipment? Smog equipment included, if any?
Do you have power brakes?
Automatic transmission, or manual?
Vacuum advance distributor?
One specifically important item is your PCV valve. It’s usually a 3/8th inch hose fitting. Sometimes at the base of the carb itself, sometimes on a separate spacer between the carb and intake manifold.
Another might be the transmission modulator, should you have an automatic.
Obviously a power brake booster needs a vacuum line as well. Also usually 3/8” size.
Brake vacuum can be fitted to a fitting on a single intake runner. The PCV must connect to a common plenum area to spread the load to all cylinders.
Vacuum advance can take two forms on Ford engines.
One distributor advanced mechanism has a single port, one has two. On the dual type, one is advance, the other retard.
If you don’t have all of the factory plumbing, and a 72 model probably had the dual diaphragm vacuum, but if you don’t have the, additional pieces, you can probably just run a single vacuum hose to the front fitting and run it to ported vacuum on the carburetor.
That’s the smaller size hose fitting, that usually higher up on the carburetor.
Since it sounds like your engine is running now, you can verify which one is which, because the ported fitting will have no perceptible vacuum at idle, but when you start pushing the throttle, you can detect vacuum.
You can use either type on the distributor, but it’s usually easier for beginners to tune with ported vacuum.
Can you post a picture of your carburetor? Several would be better.
The replica on amazon is a 2150 not a 2100. It comes with a cardboard blockoff gasket. You MUST use this. Better yet source a e6se-9c477-aa gasket. The 2150 has a different base. I'll look for some pictures of mine hooked up. but you can look in my build thread.
Thanks for the response guys,
it’s all original as far as I know.
yes it has power power brakes.
manual trans.
distributor has two vacuum ports.
I took a few pictures and labeled the location’s, figured that might make it easier to explain what goes where. I have not put the gasket in place yet as the one supplied is too thick for my carb bolts.
Should I get longer bolts or cut a new gasket with thinner material?
Really appreciate your help, Cheers!
Your “A” is a bowl vent. Found on some 73 and later carburetors.
It’s part of the evaporative emission system and is only applicable if you have a charcoal canister. If you have one, go ahead and connect it if it’s easy enough to do.
Otherwise cap it off.
The “C” looks to be the large port for the PCV valve.
The “D“ is part of the choke stove system.
It’s where clean filtered air is drawn down to the exhaust manifold, where it’s heated and returned up to the carburetor at the choke housing itself.
The hose fitting coming out of the base of the air cleaner flange portion of the carburetor is where a rubber tube interfaces with a metal tube that runs down to the exhaust manifold.
From there, it is heated up and returned via another metal tube with fiber heat resistant jacket up to the carburetor choke.
See the brass fitting there at 7 o’clock on the choke housing? A small amount of vacuum is drawn through and pulls the air through the system.
If the old tubes are rusted off of the exhaust manifold, just cap off the angled fitting up there at the air horn, and the threaded fitting at the carburetor.
most auto parts stores have little brass caps that can be threaded on.
Ive never seen a carburetor bolted to the intake. If you get studs for the carb, you wont have the gasket issue. You could just use longer bolts as well. I like to use a flat washer on them as well.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
