The other day when the temp prob was posted after I got thinking you could build a tee to fit in the heater hose as that has flow all the time on the 300 six motor.
That is unless you add a vacuum valve to close off hot water to the core. Then again it is a bypass valve so if the prob is before the valve it should still see hot water flow.
You just have to make sure the prob is in the coolant and depending on the prob may need to be grounded.
Dave ----

 

Hi Guys,, Yeah , right after I posted that one about the manifold from the block going up to the heater coolant return hose.. The light came on and said "why do all that when you can just install the sender in the return hose using a T and a ground strap " .. Oh Well. I guess that some days the light is kind of dim !!
Some days I don`t think it comes on at all !!
I DO appreciate all the input and ideas all of you have given us on doing things on the truck ..
MANY, MANY , THANKS
So that is in the works , but, no rush as were still in a cold snap.. Right now I have the dash pad in the shop and have striped all the vinyl and foam that covered the fiberglass form and have been using acetone ( Wear Good Rubber Gloves ) outside and scrubbing the form clean so it can be primed and painted.. There were 4 raised areas where the fiberglass was pored into the mold and they have been ground down smooth.. There are also 2 round holes about 1&1/4 inch. and a few smaller ones I am patching with fiberglass.. So far this project is going OK ..

Norm

 

You want the prob in the supply hose to the heater core not the return.
The heater core is a mini radiator so the temp of coolant will be lower than the coolant going in.
That is why if the motor is running hot / over heating you can run the heater on hot and fan on full and it will bring he coolant temp down.
Dave ----

 

Nice beaver!

(Yeah, I know it's really a Norseman, but I can't help myself when a cheap joke is on the line...)

 

Duplicate deleted.

 

Hello Franklin 2 & FuzzFace2,, It`s been awhile since Iv`e been on this site but we have been getting things done..
here are a few pictures of the Grab Handle mod..

[img alt="This shows installing the 3rd rivnut that will
hold the plate to the firewall.."]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/img_4529_2cd4d10c98b7f57f594488e8a56976b8f6c546a2. jpg[/img]
This shows installing the 3rd rivnut that will hold the plate to the firewall..
[img alt=" This is the bracket that will attach to the
firewall.."]https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/img_4530_5c50e28893664c5faa80e2380bd35299a2cc03f5. jpg[/img]
This is the bracket that will attach to the firewall..
[img alt="This is the back side of the bracket showing
the countersunk for the head of the rivnuts.."]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/img_4531_f6272ba1ce935db4367f822c478415a2200bb147. jpg[/img]
This is the back side of the bracket showing the countersunk for the head of the rivnuts..

Here it is installed .. I used 1/4 - 20 rivnuts..

Showing some of the magnets I used to hold the bracket while fitting it..

This is the part that attaches to the one on the firewall.. The welding isn`t up to Fords standard but to tack weld the two angles ,you can`t even see !! So put the torch head in there , pray, and pull the trigger.. The far end gets bolted or you would not be able to install the unit..

Here it is installed .. It`s not in the way of anything and we hope to find a grab handle like the one in our Jeep wrangler.. The long flat bar fits right behind red panel..
Our truck does not have air conditioning ,, but,, what if a small tube say 1 inch or 1 &1/4 inch was attached to the plenum , not the defroster units, and ducted up to both sides using the AC vents to duct warm air to the two side windows.. That would be a handy feature up here.. Any ideas on that?

Norm

 

You say you do not have A/C but you are hooking into A/C vents? Is it that your truck does or did have A/C but it doesn't work?

 

Hi Dave,, Our truck never had AC, but you can still get the "dash registers " where the ac came out of the dash..
These are not cheep but would solve the problem.. Probably the best way would be to find a complete dash that
had ac and then you would get the registers and the housing that they fit into .. Run some small diameter flexible
tubing from the plenum up to the registers and you would have some defrost heat for the side windows

 

The A/C trucks are configured a little different at the firewall, it's not a bolt in. You may indeed by able to swap in the different style dash piece and run your own ducting.

 

If the AC is working the side glass dose not fog up in the rain, summer heat, but no AC and all glass fogs inside.
Heat on for defrost and vents windows open helps a little but you can get wet if the rain / wind is just right.
In the winter I have not had any fogging issues but I only took the truck out when cold, no rain and no way in hot land in the snow!
Now I was also fighting a leaking heater core, fixed now, so that will add a little fog to the glass.
I have not used the truck much since June when I retired but I dont remember the glass fogging up to be all that bad.
Dave ----