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Good morning or afternoon depending where you are! this is my first time posting but I read it all the time, I have had an issue for going on 4 months now, I’m getting fuel to my carb. I started at the tank, dropped it cleared it, replaced the sending unit. Then the lines, my selector valve fuel pump filters everything. And it would just die on me about 10-15 minutes into a drive. I was told the ECM went out and I wasn’t getting power to the side of my carb so I bought 2 new ones, I researched them got the same year and everything but I don’t think it is working. I was also told to get a carb from an older truck like a 79, it wouldn’t have the components that were faulty so put that on and remove ECM…… didn’t work. The other weird thing is my oil gauge will read low when it starts messing up. I recently replaced the battery and added an Eddlebrock external fuel pump. It has stopped the truck from dying but didn’t fix the problem. I want to make sure to fix it now because eventually it will come back and I don’t want to ruin my engine. Any suggestions would be amazing, my ECM is labeled E4LB-I4A624-DB or E4LB-I4A459-A
thanks!!
My blue bullnose
These pictures are of my current carb I have in it. One I had before and the really shinny one is the older model with no electric parts
From my detective work, I am going to assume you have a 1984 f150 with a 300 six cylinder. I suggest you put the older carb back on, and change out the distributor to a aftermarket HEI model. Then you will not need the ECM. It will greatly simplify the engine and make it much easier to troubleshoot. Less failure points with a simpler engine. Also, your original distributor has what they call a TFI module. These are prone to heat failure like you are describing. Changing the distributor out to a HEI unit will get rid of the TFI.
What Dave said is what you should do but ..............
Do you live in California or have to go thru smog?
If so then you may not be able to use the non-smog parts like the older carb and the HEI dist.
Dave ----
From my detective work, I am going to assume you have a 1984 f150 with a 300 six cylinder. I suggest you put the older carb back on, and change out the distributor to a aftermarket HEI model. Then you will not need the ECM. It will greatly simplify the engine and make it much easier to troubleshoot. Less failure points with a simpler engine. Also, your original distributor has what they call a TFI module. These are prone to heat failure like you are describing. Changing the distributor out to a HEI unit will get rid of the TFI.
unfortunately I do live in California, I brought it to a shop and they put an external fuel pump between the tank and my fuel pump. ( I think that’s what it is ) it worked for a little bit but I don’t think they fixed the problem just bypassed it and now the problem has come back up
unfortunately I do live in California, I brought it to a shop and they put an external fuel pump between the tank and my fuel pump. ( I think that’s what it is ) it worked for a little bit but I don’t think they fixed the problem just bypassed it and now the problem has come back up
If they added a fuel pump, and it did help it, that sounds like you have a fuel vapor lock problem. Why all of a sudden are you having this problem? Why did your truck run perfectly fine without the extra fuel pump before? You are not alone. Many older cars and trucks have problems running the newer style fuels you get at the station. I do not know what Ca is selling at their stations, but stand to reason it's probably worse than any other place in the country. They put too much ethanol in the fuel and it vapor locks too easily. They re-formulate the fuel for winter and summer blends to help this problem, but sometimes in the spring and the fall, you can have problems if the weather suddenly changes.
I dont think it is a fuel line / hose issue but I could not pull fuel from a can set up on the fender when I was using 3/8" hose.
I forget is you replaced ALL THE FUEL LINES from tanks to pump but you need 5/16" hose.
Also you can not look at rubber hose and see if it is good or not as it can be bad inside.
I have also had them with small cracks on the outside and not leak gas but would suck air.
On the electric pump did they hook it to any safety switches so if the motor is not running the pump will not run?
Dave ----
ps for S&G remove the gas cap and see if that dose anything. The tank(s) should vent thru the evap system but if that is plugged then ..........
