Good Morning Guys ,, Well it`s only 8 deg. below freezing and the sun is sort of out and the wind isn`t to bad yet so I thought I`d try a couple more pictures..


Here she is , As you can see I have her up on ramps so I can do some cleaning underneath a lot easier .. There is still lots of original undercoating underneath.. Not to bad for $ 400 dollars.

We don`t have a locking gas cap yet but will be getting one..

This is the right side of the carb. after I removed a couple of things that were`nt doing anything.. I also found the tag on the carb. , you could not make out the numbers so I brought it in and cleaned it up.. I used the misses toothbrush , but I don`t think we need to tell her that !!! I noticed the vacuum port near the base of the carb. There was no hooked up to this in fact you could not even see this port..

Right rear side of the carb. you can see the choke heater wire that comes from the alternator .. I will be replacing that as it has a few cracks in the insulation.
[img alt="These are the 2 items I took off. and there position to each other.. The one on the left was not hooked up to anything and did not seem to do anything.. The one on the right bumps up (sort of ) against
the "]https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/img_4509_3b9f0c4ef3c6a7d6f26baa3f37b5657a905061c5. jpg[/img]
These are the 2 items I took off. and there position to each other.. The one on the left was not hooked up to anything and did not seem to do anything.. The one on the right bumps up (sort of ) against the " mechanical fuel bowl vent lever

This is the one on the left .. Possibly it`s the " fast idle positioner dc motor"

This is the other one that bumps up against the fuel bowl vent lever.

 

Truck look good. I paid twice that for my 81 and it was not a 4x4. How bad was mine you ask? Well when I got it home and found the motor would fire all six plug after I installed new ones I started to pull the truck for a 4 year cab off frame rebuild.

That open port is for the vacuum advance on the dist. if you had that type of dist.
For now you can just plug it. I like to use a short vacuum hose with a screw / bolt in it. The cheap cap you get in the parts stores like to split and fall off in a short time.

As for the 2 items you removed dont trash them just yet. I think they were on the feed back carb and moved over to this non-feed back carb and being they were not hooked ou or the computer working then ATM dont see the need for them.
I take it the truck dose not have AC? If it did 1 would kick up the idle when the AC was on. I have AC but no solenoid and dont have any issues.
Dave ----

 

Thank You FF2.. Yes she is not to bad for the price.. We were going to trailer her home then decided to drive her here .. Well she needed tires $945 for 5 tires with the snow flake emblem on them , then get it running and road worthy so she would pass a safety.. The manifolds and carb. were missing ,, brake work , etc. We do have a few dollars into her but it was well worth it to do it that way.. We had all the paperwork done and it was no problem to export it out of the U S and into Canada.. $225 dollars.. I`m going to try to post a couple of pictures we took when we first got her..


The cab is in pretty good shape

Behind the seat , the cab corners are clean, no rust no body rot.

the engine minus the manifolds, carb.

the radiator was still full of antifreeze when we first checked her in Jan. !! A really good thing !!
[img alt=" CF-BJE on take-off out of Rat House Bay

Any of these pictures show my kind of flying.."]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/1571x1024/cf_bje_a844c0aac2d914449b525d72d427263f276102c5.jp g[/img]
CF-BJE on take-off out of Rat House Bay Any of these pictures show my kind of flying..

The Goose , Laddie and I at Deer Lake in 83

Down in Antarcticia back in 67 or 68 when I was in the service .. The first place Uncle Sam sent me..
[img alt="A beautiful spring day , that`s why I`m not wearing a touque !! This was early 70s up in Northern Manitoba hauling drums of jet fuel for a pipe line survey ..

This is a selffy ,as i rested the camera on a drum.."]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/1800x1200/norm_jec_7389cecd42dd1bde010aa39eaa9d3821881d0a7b. jpg[/img]
A beautiful spring day , that`s why I`m not wearing a touque !! This was early 70s up in Northern Manitoba hauling drums of jet fuel for a pipe line survey .. This is a selffy ,as i rested the camera on a drum..

CF-PAT , I have lots of hours on this old girl.. She is serial #2 and was built in 67. She is now in the museum in Calgary.. There was some talk that when she went there , I should be stuffed and put in there with her ! ! I didn`t take this Pic as I was flying her..

 

The unit above is not the DC idle control motor. There are not enough wires. You can see in the diagram below the DC control motor has many wires going to it. In one of your pictures you show this engine with no intake, exhaust, or carb on it. It looks like someone has replaced those parts from a earlier engine which did not have computer control. Which is good if you are getting rid of that stuff.

 

Cool pictures of the planes

Your truck dose not need nearly as much love as mine did and why I went with the off frame rebuild.
On the dash pad they make a cover that fits over the cracked one after you take down the high spots where the cracks are.
I got one in my truck and unless you really look you cant tell it is a cover. They do make replacement pads but they are big $$$ and for a driver like mine the cover is good.
I know a lot of the work you want to do is on hold or slow because of the weather. My garage is not heated or AC so I get lazy doing projects in there LOL.

I had to do floors, rockers, cab corners, rear part of the door jambs and the lower inner & outer of the left door.
I bought a parts truck to swap the seat, dash and all wiring from and the AC when I found out the firewalls are different between the 2 trucks so had to swap the firewall too.
The bed was even a bigger mess and I ended up using the long bed style side parts truck floor, cut short and the sides off, to bolt the repaired flare side bed sides to.
I also added dual tank using the parts truck factory dual tank set up so it looks factory even that the factory never had the dual tank option on flare sides.
I also reworked the bumpers so the bolts dont show and added driving / fog lights into the front as no one sells one like it and did not want them above or below bumper.
Thing is looking at my truck you cant see the things I have done as they look factory other than the aftermarket wheels, they came with the truck and I dont have anything else that fits.
Dave ----

 

Hello FF2 and Franklin 2,, WOW !! . I DO applaud all the work and changes you have made and the time that all this take.. We would have possibly gone that route except for a couple of things.. here we have no garage or building to bring it in to work on ( it was -37 the other day) .. The other, a more important thing.. You probably have realized that we are not exactly youngsters anymore .. Judy is 80 and I`m just about !! So we were looking for one that was mostly in a drive able condition.. Yup , she was missing some parts but they were in the area to get them..

Getting Shane and Keith to get it so it would pass a safety was a very good thing .. They only worked on it when they could this also kept the cost down,, also great.. I installed new parking brake cables that we got from Rock Auto.. The others worked but were not smooth action..
I like the idea of the dash pad as new ones are in the $500 + range.. What holds them down ? Longer screws ?

Also putting the fog lights in the bumper is great.. I`m planning on doing a set of backup lights the same way That keeps it all neat and tidy.. We plan on getting the Alberta inspection done in March so in the mean time we can keep puttering away with thing..
Norm


This is how we first saw her , She had some things missing but the radiator was full of antifreeze wow ,,

there were some very large snow drifts that we went through just to get to her.

 

I hear you on needing a place to do what I did, the tools and skill also helps. My garage may be big enough to do what I did but it dose not have heat, last few years I did by a portable LP gas heater, and no AC and during the summed it gets over 100* F in the garage and fans can only keep you so cool when working on the truck.
Then add in I was working 14+ hr a day and during the winter 6 days a week.

I was a little younger (ok a lot LOL) than you when I started the project back in 2015. I show people what can be done, give ideals and to give a little push to get going on their projects.
It is nice you found someone that will work on a old truck and use it as a filler.
Keep plugging away and keep us posted how it is coming along.
Dave ----

 

Hi FF2 Well one of the things in the works, just the design stage , is a grab bar that is located just above the glove box.. Now that is just plastic ,, but ,, if the glare shield pad is removed a rectangular frame work of angle iron can be installed between the back of the firewall and a nice snug fit behind the plastic strip above the glove box door..
This might be best to MIG weld the frame work corners in place .. BUT Not today ,, the MIG welder ,nor the TIG
welder are on skis !! Plus at these temps I don`t want to be messing with anything plastic.. With this setup a nice grab bar can be installed through the plastic and into the horizontal part of the frame and screwed into captive nuts on the inside of the frame.. The other piece of frame against the firewall can also be bolted in a similar way..

According to the factory manual about a dozen screws hold the glare shield on.. With this removed it looks like you would have lots of access to the whole area behind the instrument panel.. This may not work if you have AC.. Ours does not.. The frame work could be fitted with the glove box in place.. I went on a Ford site and asked a question about a grab bar and it is a concern for a lot of owners and lots of ideas but no one mentioned trying to do it this way.. Mentioning age , well we have a friend that got an older Mustang convertable ,, he is a little younger than us and was talking to him a few weeks ago and asked how he is doing with it.. He said " I`m really ashamed to tell you ,it`s been over a year since I last drove it.." Problems, ? redoing the top? "" No, I`m finding it to hard to get into and out of so I just don`t take it for rides "" This is a shame as Steve is in good health, active, not overweight.. So far Judy and I are healthy, active, agile , just getting older.. But we know that can all change in an instant..

Another mod we`ed like to do is install real gauges , the truck has gauges but a real oil press , coolant temp ,
amp , vacuum gauge.. Do you know if the temp sending unit or oil press. sender would handle two gauges or would you put two senders on a manifold so each would have its own .. We don`t have any history of the engine but I checked the vacuum the other with 2 vacuum test gauges and at idle she was showing almost 18 inches of vacuum.. our elevation here is 3300 ft ,so adding 1 inch for each 1000 ft above sea level she would be just under 21 inches vacuum .. Both gauges were steady., no flickering so were thing that`s a good sign..
When it warms some I`ll pull the plugs and do a comp check and a leak down check., clean and regap the plugs ..Norm

 

I forgot to tell you about the dash pad cap.
You clean off the old one of dirt, take down high spots, fit the new cover to make sure it fits good and make adjustments as needed then you used a glue that comes with the cover, put the cover back on and put weight on it for a day or so to hold it and you are done.
When I did mine I had the pad removed from the truck and setup on horses to do the work. I also painted it out of the truck and when dry I installed it.

As for the frame work behind the dash for a grab bar even with out AC I dont know if there is enough room. Here is a picture of a none AC truck.

Maybe there is room to make a solid frame behind the main dash I just dont know?
I will say before you go to crazy pulling the dash part get a handle you may want to use, adjust the seat so the driver is comfy when driving, for me that is all the way back.
Now have the passenger in the seat, seat belt on, grab handle in hand and see if they can put the handle on the dash where it would be mounted.
I say this because when I am in the seat with belt on I cant reach the parking brake release. I dont want you to go thru all that work and find it cant be reached.

On the gauges: the AMP gauge never moves on any of our trucks it is just the way it is and I have never had issues with it in any Fords I have owned.
Rocketman makes a voltage gauge to replace the AMP, you send him yours and he makes the change and sends it back. A little change to wiring and you now see volts.
They say this works pretty good but the gauge still marked AMPS but works as volts.
No I dont have this I still have the factory AMP, oil & temp gauges and am happy with them.

For the factory temp and oil gauges if they read in the middle, straight up, then I call that good.
Any add on oil or temp gauges I add have to be machinal or you might as well keep what you got now in my book.
Oil is not a issue to add a tee and fit the factory sender on 1 side and the fitting to the other. Now DO NOT use the plastic line that comes with the gauge get copper tubing and run that.
Plastic over time dries out and can break and if you are lucky when it breaks it just makes a mess. Un lucky it breaks inside the cab and if really un-lucky you get sprayed with hot oil when it makes a mess. Oh if you get really really un-lucky it sprays oil all over the motor and starts a fire! Use copper tubing!

For the temp it gets harder for us 300 six people. The factory temp sender is on the right rear of the block and is a small body sender.
The machinal has a large bulb and a copper line to the gauge, this will not fit the block and you cant use adapters as the sender / bulb has to be in coolant.
I think v8 factory intakes also use a small sender? Most aftermarket manifolds have a larger hole for after market senders. Again you cant use a tee as for 2 senders as they both need to be in coolant.
On the 300 (maybe the v8?) there is a fitting in the Tstat housing but this is after the stat so the motor can be over heating, stuck stat, and the aftermarket gauge still read normal or cold.
So there you go and why I use the factory gauges.
Dave ----

 

Thank you for sending that picture and the info.. The rectangular frame would not be square but maybe something on the idea of 8 in. on the left and 6 in. on the right due to the curve of the firewall.. It would be fastened to the fire wall starting about 2 in. left of that line on the windscreen that comes down to the firewall and goes to the right toward the door frame.. I have`nt measured this yet and figured the angles this would be much easy`ier with the pad out .. I just replaced the coolant temp. sender located on the right side near the rear of the block.. It is a pipe fitting and if a short manifold was made that would hold 2 senders and screw into this location I`m thinking that this would work ? ?.. OH yes copper tubing on the oil line .. refrigeration copper line is thicker walled also aircraft primer line would be very good.. On the pad cap , are you able to fasten it down the same way ? I have the LMC catalog and I saw them in there for about $160 or so.. A lot cheaper than a new pad..
Norm

 

A manifold will not work well for the coolant temp sensor. The sensor probe needs to be submerged in coolant and sample the temp as it passes by. If it's mounted out on a branch made by a pipe manifold, it may be submerged in coolant but it will be slow to read and not be accurate, since it's only reading coolant that happens to dead head in the pipe, not the coolant rushing by from the waterpump.

Since the oil pressure only reads pressure, it can be installed in a pipe network and work ok. I personally do not like the factory gauges and just abandon them when I get one of these trucks. I only use the fuel level gauge and the speedometer. Everything else is dead.

 

Good Morning Franklin2 and FF2 ,, I was thinking the same thing about the coolant not moving by the probe.. The way around that might be to have a hose go from the end of the manifold and go up and Y into the return line of the heater hose going back to the pump.. On the same idea as we do with the recirculating type of block heater....
I don`t know if you folks use them down there..
It`s a little cold here right now, -27 c about 17 below 0 F Yes, dear, I WILL clean off the Jeep and warm it up before we go anywhere !!

Frost shields use to be mandatory but are now getting hard to find.. they worked really good if you took the time to install them right.. They were plastic panels ,different shapes and were attached to the inside of your side windows ,rear window, even the inside of the windscreen.. They were a stiff plastic with small bumps that kept them away from the glass .. they worked like a thermopane window on a house..
We did order a Tridon LF 12K flasher . This has about a 2 ft extension wires.. Were hoping this will let us hear the signal flasher when we signal for a turn.. Also we may find we have to put a small light up on the dash pad and have that in line with the flasher.. All the years of flying have done a few things to my hearing.. Mainly I don`t hear certain tones..

This was a beautiful spring day somewhere in Northern Manitoba.. I was hauling drums of jet fuel to various sites for a helicopter survey.. This was a selfy as I rested the camera on a drum..

I was thinking of warming up the pickup and removing the dash pad so I could see about that bracket behind the instrument panel to support a grab bar to help with getting in on the right side.. When I asked a question about a grab bar on the passengers side there were lots of ideas but I had not seen this idea.. I guess one could put a grab bar on the outside on the roof just above the rain gutter and hoist your self up and get half a bun on the seat and slide in Ha.. Ha..

On E-Bay the other day I saw a couple of distributor that are of the kind that you fellows suggested I should get
they had a Blue cap and were for the Ford 6/300 engine , vacuum advance and were from a reputable auto parts place .. They were about $80 .. Up in lethbridge tjhe other day there was no luck finding one.. Any ideas on one of these ? Or go with Rock Auto , LMC , etc ..
Norm

 

Great photo's, thanks for sharing.

I would buy from a local auto parts and build a relationship with them.

 

I have used the heater hose before myself. I did not use a y, I did not want to lose any hot water to the heater core. I just cut the hose, and inserted a fitting I made. It was a hose barb, then a tee, and then another hose barb. On the other opening on the tee I put a thread adapter (hex bushing) to reduce the thread size and then put my aftermarket probe in this fitting. Worked fine. You just have to make sure the coolant circulates in the heater core at all times. It does on these trucks. A lot of the Fords do. But some have a control valve that controls the water flow or cuts it off completely when you do not need heat. So splicing in the tee would not work. That is probably what your Y thing is all about.

 

A female T with barbed fittings would work. Something like this, I've also made a set up like that for the race car.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Fema...t=gws-wiz-serp