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6.7L Power Stroke Diesel 2011-current Ford Powerstroke 6.7 L turbo diesel engine

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Old Oct 13, 2024 | 10:58 AM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by elitejunkman
Biggest problem is the valve body. I've heard of the main shell wearing and causing issues. There's a bushing somewhere that moves and restricts fluid flow. Clutch stacks being too small to hold the torque multiplication. I'm not a trans tech either so my explanation may not be exactly how someone more knowledgeable would explain it.

You pretty much nailed it. From what I find of aftermarket, its basically to add more capacity to the packs. Not a lot of hard parts which is actually a good thing to see, meaning the factory parts are holding up pretty well. I do see a lot of valve body kits, but that never surprises me, there is always room for improvement in that area for any automatic trans. Truth is, you never want a soft shifting automatic, that softness is slippage which leads to wear. Firm shifts, but not harsh is preferred.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2024 | 05:41 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by acdii
You pretty much nailed it. From what I find of aftermarket, its basically to add more capacity to the packs. Not a lot of hard parts which is actually a good thing to see, meaning the factory parts are holding up pretty well. I do see a lot of valve body kits, but that never surprises me, there is always room for improvement in that area for any automatic trans. Truth is, you never want a soft shifting automatic, that softness is slippage which leads to wear. Firm shifts, but not harsh is preferred.
Since you're smarter than the average bear here, what do think about aftermarket torque converters, for example this one?

https://suncoastdiesel.com/i-3050112...converter.html

They also make one with a billet stator..
https://suncoastdiesel.com/i-3050112...et-stator.html

Just wondering your take on this, especially with a truck working all the time like the OP?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2024 | 05:53 PM
  #108  
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Triple disc, billet converters are the best option for any automatic transmission. My transmission guy says it's like 3 men doing the work of 1. Sadly, when I had my transmission rebuilt, there weren't any aftermarket converters available. Aftermarket companies were selling them, but on deeper investigation,they were selling factory converters under their name. I will have triple disc, billet in my next build. If the aftermarket doesn't have enough upgrades available, I will purchase one of Next Gen Drivetrain's extreme tow transmissions. The stall speed on the factory converters are also too high. Something to do with emissions while idling.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2024 | 06:31 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by Overkill2
Since you're smarter than the average bear here, what do think about aftermarket torque converters, for example this one?

https://suncoastdiesel.com/i-3050112...converter.html

They also make one with a billet stator..
https://suncoastdiesel.com/i-3050112...et-stator.html

Just wondering your take on this, especially with a truck working all the time like the OP?
Originally Posted by elitejunkman
Triple disc, billet converters are the best option for any automatic transmission. My transmission guy says it's like 3 men doing the work of 1. Sadly, when I had my transmission rebuilt, there weren't any aftermarket converters available. Aftermarket companies were selling them, but on deeper investigation,they were selling factory converters under their name. I will have triple disc, billet in my next build. If the aftermarket doesn't have enough upgrades available, I will purchase one of Next Gen Drivetrain's extreme tow transmissions. The stall speed on the factory converters are also too high. Something to do with emissions while idling.
This ^^ Aftermarket racing converters usually have multiple plates for the lock up, and give a nice firm lockup, and move more fluid than stock. The higher stall speed is to offset the high idle when doing an in place regen If the stall speed is too low it could cause the transmission to over heat when parked. Pushing the fluid past the vanes at or near stall creates a lot of friction in the fluid which leads to heat, and since that fluid is pretty much trapped in the convertor in park or neutral, it really has no where to release that heat like when its in gear going down the road. The convertor is also driving the pump so at idle it isn't circulating very quickly. On a truck that doesn't do regens it can have a much lower stall speed with out the over heat worries.
 
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