Pretty sure his previous truck was a 6.4PSD with a Seimens K16 pump.

 

My personal 19 F450 gets pm 22 and better diesel FBC every time I get fuel. Very pickey about where i get from under 40,000 miles no fuel problems yet
the 12 F550 I got for a work truck when the ram 5500 gernaded the transmission et 9,000 miles has 170,000 miles on it, diesel from whatever station is close, 10 ish different drivers, normally over 32,000 lbs with fuel, trailer and car, oil and fuel filters get changed atleast 1 time a year. No fuel pump problems yet.

 

These result are impressive. Hard to believe an ounce of fluid can make that much of a difference (ie. Opti-Lube Summer Blend [#4]). I'm sure other brands are similar.

 

That's a 17 year old study but one that could used as a guide for a new study. It would be interesting to see what would happen in a new one with my additive of choice, K100D+ and Hot Shot's LX4 lubricity additive plus any others out there that weren't tested or maybe were not in existence yet.

 

I use Power Service Diesel Kleen. Good or Bad?

 

It's OK, I believe Hot Shots is better though.

The tiny amount to a huge tank makes sense in that it uses a reaction at the molecular level in the fuel to provide more lubricity. The additive locks into or creates new chains in the fuel to increase the Lubricity of the fuel. How, Science Magic. There are a lot of articles that get into the nitty gritty and if you have a subscription, you can read the articles. I don't, just know of the concept. Those who have big swimming pools can get an idea how it works. Treating a pool with Chlorine and Shock, you don't use a lot of it to provide the protection needed, so same principal on the fuel additives.

Lubricity is a form of a hydrocarbon chain, the additives build upon that. Same goes for Cetane, or octane boost, though those require more than an ounce or two of additive to be effective.

 

That makes sense. I was using a turkey baster to transfer the additive from the gallon jug to small 2 oz glass bottles. At the end I realized the turkey baster had somewhat melted. Now I'm wondering if there's plastic residue floating around in the additive. I don't see anything visually.

Anyway, use glass if you're going to store/transfer this stuff.

 

All modern fuel additives come in plastic bottles but i would believe that plastic items like plastic fuel cans and plastic bottles containing fuel additives or any other chemicals, the plastics used are made for exposure to flammable and corrosive chemicals... kind of like how all the seals in these new vehicles had to be updated to seals that play nice with ethanol gas. I don't think a kitchen tool like a turkey baster was made to be exposed to petroleum products and chemicals. Just saying...

 

Yeah it's a different kind of plastic. I actually opted for glass bottles for this very reason, and glad I did. Didn't think it would react so quickly.

 

I keep my additives in a Harbor Freight military style ammo box on the rear floor... the K100D isnt bad but the Max Mileage stinks to the high heavens...

 

That's actually a good idea.

 

Yep, this way it's a sealed container, rubber seal on top and safe and sound. This summer I had a problem with the K100D that I had in a 32 oz Stabil bottle that I used for correct dosing. What was happening was the the heat caused the K100Dto climb up into the dosing chamber and make it past the cap. Never had a problem with that bottle before and it was actually a newer bottle that I had bought, dumped the Stabil and used for K100D. Now I use a 16 oz bottle from a different additive that I tried and the Max Mileage FBC is in a 16 oz bottle as well. I keep a spare 8 oz bottle of K100D in the can as well in case and a dosing syringe for the Max Mileage FBC since it doses in small amounts (ml). I have the can lined with plastic bags and have old newspaper in the bottom. The bottles have to sit in there at an angle but they do fit. Plus I have a towel I use to wipe off the diesel fuel nozzle handle and it goes on top.

 

I have ran Optilube and now have used Archoil for the past several years. At the very least it helps with fuel economy (more cetane) and helps keep the fuel system clean. If your fuel has bio you don't need more lubricity

I change my oil around 5k miles. Powerstroke is too expensive of an engine to cheap out and try and extend oil changes with Ford's OLI

 

I'm on my 3rd super duty 7.3, 6.4, and 6.7. Never been a gallon of fuel that didn't include Diesel Kleen at their recommended rate, (13 oz per 50 gal). About 500,000 miles total, No engine problems except for a HG blown when I had my 6.4 over tuned. What we called a SIW in Nam. A self inflicted wound.

 

But bio in the diesel can be a problem with water. I use my additive because it's a multi functional product, lubricity included, but water control as well.

I started a thread years back on emulsification versus demulsification. Lots of petroleum based fuel additives are demulsifiers because oil and water doesn't mix.

Emulsions are temporary but K100 breaks down water at the molecular level and permanently bonds with each molecule in a burnable organic compound. It puts water in a permanent solution, not a temporary emulsion.

Water in my fuel is a concern to me, especially in the cold winter months when at shut down, the fuel in the tank has been warmed up by the return fuel, so when it sits and cools off, condensation forms in the tank and drips into the fuel, just like water in my engine oil after she sits and gets cold. My catch can collects a lot of water in the cold months... so IMO, K100D+ works for me.

There seems to be 3 main schools of thought here when it comes to additives:

1) don't need them so don't use them

2) use them occasionally but not all the time

3) use them on a regular basis.

When I first bought my truck, my first diesel, I looked into and researched ULSD fuel. What i found was that it sure is not the old school diesel, which stayed fresher or good longer than old school fuel.

I also saw how easily ULSD can absorb water and that the process of hydrotreating petroleum to remove sulfur actually makes the fuel susceptible to water problems. And bio blends make it worse.

I'm not going to pretend I'm some sort of expert because I'm not... I read a lot is all. And not everyone that doesn't use additives will have problems but I learned to never say never. I tend to overkill things and have opinions that some do not. And that's okay.

This article explains the potential problems that can be had with water in diesel fuel. I'm not endorsing this guys, or even my additives I use, just posting for information. Like I've always said, take it or leave it...

https://www.bellperformance.com/bell...ting-rid-of-it

Everyone's MMV...