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6.7L Power Stroke Diesel 2011-current Ford Powerstroke 6.7 L turbo diesel engine

Do fuel additives really work?

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Old Oct 2, 2024 | 05:27 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Euroman
it certainly keeps the motor quiet. The dogs hear the Peugeot before it’s even in the yard but they mostly don’t hear the pickup.
So I know during a cold start here in WNY in winter, my truck sounds like a real diesel, louder, because it I believe pilot injection is off during the cold weather until she warms up some...

But a stock 6.7 is a fairly quiet engine compared to the older engines...

Found this video... sure he's deleted but apparently the pilot injection was shut off...


 
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Old Oct 3, 2024 | 02:43 AM
  #62  
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I’d have guessed 6.0 if you hadn’t said it’s a 6.7
 
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Old Oct 3, 2024 | 07:39 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Euroman
I’d have guessed 6.0 if you hadn’t said it’s a 6.7
Yeah kind of an extreme case with it being deleted.. but my truck did it this morning. It was 40 out and I started it before I walked out for work. Just as I walked up to the truck, she went quiet when the pilot injection kicked in. But obviously not as loud as the truck in the video...
 
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Old Oct 4, 2024 | 01:12 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by JoeUser
If you're talking about these, then you might want to reconsider. I bought a set of these (different brand, but identical in every way), and they lasted about two months. Too much vibration, and where the rods across the backside that secure them to the side of the bed broke completely. Plus, they don't support a lot of weight, so you won't be storing much of anything in them (like tools). Utterly useless and a waste of money on my part, as they weren't repairable.

Yes, those. Thanks for the heads up, saved me a ton of money and headaches.

Originally Posted by Overkill2
BuiltRite makes those molle style metal plates that mount to the truck. You can get ammo cans, smaller to larger to mount to those plates, including the large ones that hold mortar shells in them, online. Lock kits for ammo cans can be found as well, and those metal ammo cans have rubber seals on top for a waterproof container... that's my plan at one point...
Now those i am interested in, guess I should go look them up.

Yes, it's true, I had an itch to scratch and man did I scratch it good. 2024 Lariat Ultimate in Star White DRW. Oh MAN is that truck smooth and quiet. Unbelievable the difference in ride quality between the 350 and 450.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2024 | 01:24 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by acdii
Yes, it's true, I had an itch to scratch and man did I scratch it good. 2024 Lariat Ultimate in Star White DRW. Oh MAN is that truck smooth and quiet. Unbelievable the difference in ride quality between the 350 and 450.
So, you pulled the trigger? If so, sweet! Congrats, let's see a pic!

(apologies to the OP for the thread hijack)
 
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Old Oct 4, 2024 | 02:18 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Overkill2
But bio in the diesel can be a problem with water. I use my additive because it's a multi functional product, lubricity included, but water control as well.

I started a thread years back on emulsification versus demulsification. Lots of petroleum based fuel additives are demulsifiers because oil and water doesn't mix.

Emulsions are temporary but K100 breaks down water at the molecular level and permanently bonds with each molecule in a burnable organic compound. It puts water in a permanent solution, not a temporary emulsion.

Water in my fuel is a concern to me, especially in the cold winter months when at shut down, the fuel in the tank has been warmed up by the return fuel, so when it sits and cools off, condensation forms in the tank and drips into the fuel, just like water in my engine oil after she sits and gets cold. My catch can collects a lot of water in the cold months... so IMO, K100D+ works for me.

There seems to be 3 main schools of thought here when it comes to additives:

1) don't need them so don't use them

2) use them occasionally but not all the time

3) use them on a regular basis.

When I first bought my truck, my first diesel, I looked into and researched ULSD fuel. What i found was that it sure is not the old school diesel, which stayed fresher or good longer than old school fuel.

I also saw how easily ULSD can absorb water and that the process of hydrotreating petroleum to remove sulfur actually makes the fuel susceptible to water problems. And bio blends make it worse.

I'm not going to pretend I'm some sort of expert because I'm not... I read a lot is all. And not everyone that doesn't use additives will have problems but I learned to never say never. I tend to overkill things and have opinions that some do not. And that's okay.

This article explains the potential problems that can be had with water in diesel fuel. I'm not endorsing this guys, or even my additives I use, just posting for information. Like I've always said, take it or leave it...

https://www.bellperformance.com/bell...ting-rid-of-it

Everyone's MMV...
I will stick with Archoil and drain the water often and in 40 years of owning diesels have never had any issues with water. On the farm I use Power Service Bio Kleen because it's humid as heck here and fuel might sit in my diesel tank all summer
 
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Old Oct 4, 2024 | 05:08 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by johndeerefarmer
I will stick with Archoil and drain the water often and in 40 years of owning diesels have never had any issues with water. On the farm I use Power Service Bio Kleen because it's humid as heck here and fuel might sit in my diesel tank all summer
Put me in the Archoil fanclub as well. Really like how if makes my truck run quit with only 3 oz. We don't use any additives in our farm equipment except maybe that one major freeze the fuel can potentially gel in the winter.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2024 | 10:15 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by JoeUser
So, you pulled the trigger? If so, sweet! Congrats, let's see a pic!

(apologies to the OP for the thread hijack)

I'll get a thread started tomorrow. I only took three pictures, one was for a bitchfest that I posted in the 2017 forum. Since it is the first fill, I didn't get to add any EFT to it, so this first tank will be strictly pump lubricants
 
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Old Oct 5, 2024 | 09:31 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by johndeerefarmer
I will stick with Archoil and drain the water often and in 40 years of owning diesels have never had any issues with water. On the farm I use Power Service Bio Kleen because it's humid as heck here and fuel might sit in my diesel tank all summer
Originally Posted by FishOnOne
Put me in the Archoil fanclub as well. Really like how if makes my truck run quit with only 3 oz. We don't use any additives in our farm equipment except maybe that one major freeze the fuel can potentially gel in the winter.
I've tried Archoil in the beginning before I found K100, but can't really comment on it since I didn't use long term.

As to draining the lower filter, DCFM on my truck, I don't. The only time it gets drained is when I'm replacing the filters.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2024 | 02:52 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Overkill2
I've tried Archoil in the beginning before I found K100, but can't really comment on it since I didn't use long term.

As to draining the lower filter, DCFM on my truck, I don't. The only time it gets drained is when I'm replacing the filters.
Why in the world would you not drain the lower filter? Once the light comes on it's probably too late
 
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Old Oct 5, 2024 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by johndeerefarmer
Why in the world would you not drain the lower filter? Once the light comes on it's probably too late
Well... to be honest, you have a point. But I use an additive that breaks water down at the molecular level... is this a fail safe? Negative. I usually overdose a little at every fuel up and you can't overdose it. If I thought I got bad fuel, I would probably add at least what I thought I got... let's say I bought 5 to 10 gallons of fuel and I thought it was bad. I'd probably add at least one full bottle of K100, 32 oz or 1 quart, probably two. I've never found any water in the fuel from the DFCM but I wouldn't know anyway because the K100 would take care of it.

This explains it much better...

https://k-100.com/why-k100/


"K100 has a strong hydrophilic attraction to water. It seeks out water droplets (1) in the fuel system and breaks the bond (2) between adjacent molecules. K100 then permanently bonds itself to each individual molecule and encapsulates it with a combustible shell. The encapsulated water (3) is dispersed throughout the entire fuel tank as an inner-phase suspension. Over time the water is removed as the engine runs, harmlessly burning it off."

The company was founded in the western New York area here in the 1960s. They were bought the Husky Corporation, which is a major fuel dispensing equipment manufacturing company, a few years ago. So if anyone thinks it's snake oil or don't want to use it, don't. I post up here for FYI and have a "take it or leave it" attitude about what I post. I post for informational purposes only and to introduce what I use/do, which understandably may not work for others.


The one time I did buy from a station in town where I work, a few years back because it was cheaper than the local carwash chain I buy from, and the carwash fuel has been great because the lower filter always comes out a light shade of tan and pretty clean (I let the truck tell me when to change but I am thinking of shortening up my OCIs), and It sounded like the pump had reached the bottom of the tank. It was winter time and cold weather. The next day I was off and the truck wouldn't start... I stopped after a short two cranks. Pulled the filters, couldn't really see much on the lower one and installed a new Motorcraft set. Primed it over 10 times like I do and she started right up. I still did not find any water in that lower filter housing. I took some pics but they were on my old phone. Never did buy fuel from there again...

In the colder weather, it gets a doubled dose of 1:500...

Again, I'm not going to say never, but since I use a fuel that not only stabilizes fuel, anti-gel, fuel cleaner, lubricity adder, dissolves alphaltenes back into the fuel, adds 1.5 to 2 points Cetane and permanently bonds with each molecule of water to put it into a permanent solution, I guess I don't worry about it so much since I always buy at the same place that has good, clean fuel.

So once again, I do what works for me and use what works for me but I will acknowledge that you have a point. But truth be told, you're also not using K100D+ and YMMV... just my 2 cents.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2024 | 10:18 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by johndeerefarmer
Why in the world would you not drain the lower filter? Once the light comes on it's probably too late
My response to this is when.... there are so many folks that worry about using only the Motorcraft filters or parts saying Ford knows what they are doing. Yet draining of the fuel filter has this mythical aura surrounding it. You must do it or else your truck will die. Even the almighty manual says this: "You should drain water from the module assembly whenever the warning light illuminates or a message appears in the information display advising you to drain the water separator". Yet some people insist this must be done on some regular basis. So is it daily, weekly, monthly or just when you think there is water in the fuel. I have never seen signs of water in my fuel (I collect it into a glass jar) when I change my filter and I don't drain it because the light has never come on.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2024 | 11:49 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by riverratrusty
My response to this is when.... there are so many folks that worry about using only the Motorcraft filters or parts saying Ford knows what they are doing. Yet draining of the fuel filter has this mythical aura surrounding it. You must do it or else your truck will die. Even the almighty manual says this: "You should drain water from the module assembly whenever the warning light illuminates or a message appears in the information display advising you to drain the water separator". Yet some people insist this must be done on some regular basis. So is it daily, weekly, monthly or just when you think there is water in the fuel. I have never seen signs of water in my fuel (I collect it into a glass jar) when I change my filter and I don't drain it because the light has never come on.
There's nothing mythical about draining the fuel filter/water separator (DFCM). It gives the owner the opportunity to check the quality of the fuel they're purchasing to see if it contains water or not.

Bottom line...Water is the enemy of the CP4.2 pump. Preventatively draining your DFCM is not. My Power Stroke Owners Guide Supplement manual under the "Check every month" chart says to check the fuel filter/water separator, drain if necessary. The only way I know how to check it is to drain a sample into a glass jar and inspect it.

Everyone's application is different. Some refill at the same fuel station every time and have built up confidence that the risk is low that the fuel they purchase is free of contamination, whereas some travel and purchase fuel at different stations all the time and are at a higher risk of picking up some contaminated diesel. Some fill up monthly, bi weekly, weekly, or daily.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2024 | 02:02 PM
  #74  
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Here's my thought in it. If there is enough water in the filter that would contaminate the CP4 the WIF light would have been long illuminated. It takes less then a teaspoon of water to trigger the WIF light. There is a higher percentage in breaking the drain plug from not properly moving it than there is of actually having water drain out.

If I feel for some reason the fuel I bought was a problem, then of course I would do a drain check for a few tanks afterwards, but in normal use, chances of having water in the system is low to none.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2024 | 05:17 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by FishOnOne
There's nothing mythical about draining the fuel filter/water separator (DFCM). It gives the owner the opportunity to check the quality of the fuel they're purchasing to see if it contains water or not.

Bottom line...Water is the enemy of the CP4.2 pump. Preventatively draining your DFCM is not. My Power Stroke Owners Guide Supplement manual under the "Check every month" chart says to check the fuel filter/water separator, drain if necessary. The only way I know how to check it is to drain a sample into a glass jar and inspect it.

Everyone's application is different. Some refill at the same fuel station every time and have built up confidence that the risk is low that the fuel they purchase is free of contamination, whereas some travel and purchase fuel at different stations all the time and are at a higher risk of picking up some contaminated diesel. Some fill up monthly, bi weekly, weekly, or daily.
Speaking of fuel, and the original CP4 your truck is still rocking Troy, how many miles on your truck now?
 
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