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Could I get a reality check on my mounting plan for a 390FE long block? While I'd ideally like to spread the load of the block on the engine stand, I am concerned about using the block holes at the base - where I've "X" them. I'm thinking the best point is all four at the top (circles). I'm using Grade 8, 4" bolts (7/16 x 14) and a bunch of washers.
My stand is a 1500 LB. It unfortunately is the I design. So I am NOT going to turn the engine upside down until I have it stripped to a bare block. Just worried about instability. Does ANY of this sound "OFF"? Or good to go?
Lastly....can anyone tell me what the marks mean on the back of the engine? Just curious if this was a factory sign-off? I've seen similar markers in yellow paint on my gas tank if you can believe it (how it survived all those years is beyond me).
Mount your engine on the stand using the top two bolt holes marked with the red “o”. Mount the bottom engine stand brackets to the two lower bolt holes marked with the red x’s. When you mount the stand head to the block try and center the pivot on the block. Your engine stand should be heavy enough to rotate a fully assembled engine.
I worked in Ford service departments and this is the way we mounted the FE’s on the stands.
I wouldn't hesitate to use those two lowest and the two highest bolts like said above. Spreads the foot print carrying the load. If long term or something makes you nervous, add a leg in front.
a 400 of mine
For over 30 years sitting on it, and before that it had a BBC with heads on it for for a while. It was a $30 stand in the '70s, I did add a removable front support last year, as I have a table top and a box of parts on top of the 400.
Mine just has one front wheel, I plan to add a cross piece and put two wheels there spread apart ..... better for working on it, but one has worked for simple storage use.
Awesome guys. So glad I asked. Thank you thank you!
To answer the point about building out the stand. Yes I've got a 100A MIG welder, but I don't trust the guy who would use it for this! A good idea with the skill or equipment. I think the unit I have would struggle. Most of my other welding with that has been sheet only.
You can never have enough engine stands.
Sometimes you can find them used on CL / FB MP or just buy a new one.
You can mount a motor to the U stand and put another motor on a dolly under it for storage.
I had 2 stands being used so I bought a cheap one from like AZ just to de-grease and paint a motor.
It was so cheap there is no way to center the motor straight up & down on the head and put the pin in from turning.
So be careful when you buy one.
Dave ----
This probably won't be a surprise to others...but was to me. The arms won't bolt up on the engine stand. Oh so close....but just a bit too far to get them all as suggested. And not enough length in the mounting plate to make the slots longer. Most I've been able to mount up are three arms. Unless I'm missing something? I did try with the flat slots both on the "bottom" and "top". I did a quick search online and came up empty for a new mounting plate or arms that I could use with my stand. Stand is a Torin. So not a bad one.
I'm wondering if the solution is a piece of flat stock with four holes drilled into it. I read this solution on an IH forum. You bolt the two center holes to the bottom slots on the plate (I'm assuming) and then the two outer holes are for each arm. That gives you the additional reach. TBear...looks like you've done this basically with angle iron in your photo...except off of the ground or something??
This seems like a way cheaper approach. If I went this route...would 1/4" flat stock be enough? Assuming a 3/4 HP drill press can handle that.
It really doesn't bode well for doing engine work if I'm stumped at the stage of getting this thing mounted!
This probably won't be a surprise to others...but was to me. The arms won't bolt up on the engine stand. Oh so close....but just a bit too far to get them all as suggested. And not enough length in the mounting plate to make the slots longer. Most I've been able to mount up are three arms. Unless I'm missing something? I did try with the flat slots both on the "bottom" and "top". I did a quick search online and came up empty for a new mounting plate or arms that I could use with my stand. Stand is a Torin. So not a bad one.
I'm wondering if the solution is a piece of flat stock with four holes drilled into it. I read this solution on an IH forum. You bolt the two center holes to the bottom slots on the plate (I'm assuming) and then the two outer holes are for each arm. That gives you the additional reach. TBear...looks like you've done this basically with angle iron in your photo...except off of the ground or something??
This seems like a way cheaper approach. If I went this route...would 1/4" flat stock be enough? Assuming a 3/4 HP drill press can handle that.
It really doesn't bode well for doing engine work if I'm stumped at the stage of getting this thing mounted!
If you are going through the effort to fabricate something, if it were me, I would get some square stock, and round stock with I.D. big enough to fit the bolts you're using and make a couple new arms that are an inch or two longer than what you have. Even with a 100a welder, crank the amperage, add some bevels to the metal and run a couple beads for each joint if you're concerned you're not getting enough penetration.
A little off topic: With two identical engine stands you can fabricate a rotisserie for just about anything? Cabs, beds, whatever. True that you can't have too many of them.
Funny that you mention that...because I was thinking of getting the Harbor Freight geared stand with that in mind - since someone said it's fantastic for making a rotissarie. But it's mounting plate still won't work for the 390...so didn't make sense.
Running a 1/4" plate with four holes that I was going to try won't work by the way. You can't get the arms to line up with that approach.
I'm going with the suggestion of making a couple of my own arms. Ordered some 1" square stock and then will drill/weld. Makes sense and is cheaper (theoretically). Though I ended up ordering other metal I need given shipping costs. We don't have a metal yard around here. So it's all delivery.
In addition to ability to make whatever length makes sense, I can go bigger on that stock than what the manufacturer provided. So all good.
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