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I have a 2007 F350 6.0l Lariat, Crew Cab, Long Box, 4x4, Automatic, I purchaced from a kid in Dec of 2021. I've been told it's EGR is deleted. My parts truck is a 2005 F350 6.0l, Crew Cab, Long Box. It has a Bully Dog that I will probably use, eventually. I need to be running well and understand it first. I was told that it's EGR is deleted too and was bulletproofed, it wasnt bulletproofed.
Here's what I've done: 2021 (upon purchase)- 2 New Batteries Tightened a bolt on the shifter because it was loose Oil Changed to Winter Oil Block Heater located wire & replaced plug
Exhaust leak Jan.2022- Y Pipe (NEW) March 2022- Y Pipe Clamps (NEW)(leak way better)
March 2022- Front Brake Pads, Rotors & Calipers (NEW) (Brake Caliper Siezed) Both Front Wheel Bearing Assembly Hubs June- Upper Turbo Boot blew, had tear/hole in it, & melted the heating system) July- 387432km Lower Turbo Boot (NEW) (blew, it tore also, melted dashboard & dash wiring in addition to the already melted heating system. The exhaust manifold gasket on the passenger side started leaking hugely. Code reader no longer worked, as well as all the dials and messages, although the binging of them going off still worked. Also the accelorator pedal quit working while limping it in to location) The truck itself wasn't overheating (coolant & tranny temp were fine I mean).
November 2023- BOUGHT A 2005 F350 6.0L PARTS TRUCK it ran when I bought it, drove it home, but it's frame, and cab were terrible and it was leaking Diesel into the coolant. Originally he told me it was Bullet Proofed. After I bought it he told that Bullet Proofing was a myth. He's a friend of a friend. Oh well, I'm pretty sure I've gotten out of it what I bought it for. One day I'll give it a tally and see.
Before I did anything else she was starting and idling well. Heating system, accelorator, dash lights & message lights all weren't but the dial gauges worked. I really don't know about the signals or the wipers as we towed her home on a flatty in the summer. Replaced the passenger side manifold gasket w/ Bullet Proof studs(NEW) 2024 January-June Swapped the heating system, complete dash, all the dash wiring, & everything else I could manage while I was in the dash. Like the silver component just above the floor in the middle, and the vac lines in the dash and the upper ones in the engine compartment jic it was heat damaged. I also noticed a miniscule leak at the top of the rad so swapped that, took the Air Aid (I was already at it & it was so AWESOME.) Did the degass bottle because I thought it was in better condition (PARTS TRUCK) When I was done she fired up like a champ. Heating system worked (didn't bother recharging the AC), message center, only one dash light came back so its super dim. But the accelorator pedal, turn signals/hazards and wipers still didn't work there's a check engine light and every time I step on the brakes I get a trailer brake fault. Eccelorator Pedal changed out (PARTS TRUCK).(didnt fix the excellorator)(put back) EBP Sensor (PARTS TRUCK)(got the excellorator back) MBRP Y Pipe & Clamps (NEW) (still had a exhaust leak) Fixed that. While I was testing her out I noticed a grinding in the 4x4, the 4x4 on the fly and cruise control doesn't work. I drained and filled the front and rear diff. The grinding stopped. Still have to manually lock the hubs. Checked every fuse in her, got a new flasher, nothing. Swapped fuse pannel. (PARTS TRUCK) Got the wipers working. Still no turn signals, cruise control, 4x4 on the fly, the trailer brake fault still comes on with the application of the brakes and the check engine light is still up. June the starter bit it. Thought it was the batteries & got new batteries. (Yes I know I'm an idiot) please take into consideration that I'm not a mechanic, I'm a 49 year old female (when yer 49 it does make a difference) medic. I just can't afford to pay 135 and hour for the only mechanic I can trust. I EVEN ALREADY HAD A STARTER, FML. So, I got new batteries. When I realized it was the starter I put the (NEW) 6.4l one in because I had read that thread. Now she's starting again. Still no signals/hazards, cruise, 4x4 on the fly and the trailer brake message & check engine lights are still on.
Lots of the wiring got hot and some got melted so I pulled and swapped the main wiring harness under the hood. After cleaning all the connectors, inspecting it and rewrapping it. The main starter wire broke while I was at it so rounded the broken piece & drilled a hole in it and greased all that. Also the big 6g wire that twins with another to go into the fuse pannel under the hood broke, I put a terminal on it & the crazy one with the splice that goes to the drivers side battery, the weird spliced one that goes from the fuse pannel to the battery. I greased both of them. When I was done that, she wouldn't start. Just a click when you turn the key and cranking. And still no signals/hazards. Not sure about the other stuff. So, tested the starter wire, while cranking and not, from the battery to the starter. With my test light. Incuding the bolt, and post. At first I thought that was it because I had to fix it at the batterry. So I got power without a cranking power drop on the main. Still no start. I thought the dude in the vid said that there should have been power in the little starter wire when cranking only. No power at all on that one so I thought somehow pooched my new 6.4 starter. So I got my father-in-law's buddy (thank you James & Trevor) to test the parts trucks starter before my father-in-law and my wife, as I had to go back to work, swapped out the 6.4 one with the tested parts truck one. Still cranking, won't start. So, I had one day off, I hooked up the code reader. It's a cheapo one. There are no codes, I went over every plug/connector again. One of the PCM plugs was not connecting well so I pulled it, switched it to the parts truck's PCM, re cleaned the connectors, applied dielectric grease and after much swearing and some help I finally got the parts PCM in. Still crqnking, no start and no codes. It is linking though. I noticed while I was struggling with those three PCM plugs that it stopped cranking and also stopped linking to the code reader I have. My next week off I started on your list. Air fitler is great, Oil has under 500km on it, batteries are brand new and charged. Starter working, checked the fuel at the secondary, fuel looks pristine and smelles of deisel not gas. There is no fuel going to the secondary filter housing. I drained the water/fuel seperator there was no water that I could see and it looks and smells fine. I changed the fuel filter in there. I've also ordered ford fuel filters because you guys said to. Ive been using wix so I'll swap them when they come. I ordered the pc link for Forscan. It should arrive before my next set off. Then I rechecked every fuse. I traced the wire harness from the fuel pump to the replaced harness, cleaned that connection and greased it. There is power to the orange wire (I'm sure it looks orange). When I google what colour the fuel pump hot wire is I am getting pink?! My colour vision sucks so it might be pink?! Either way there is power in that orange/pink wire. I was then advised by my buddy to try changing the FICM, about that time I saw a post somewhere that said the FICM is married to the PCM so I changed that to match, cleaned the connectors and greased that. Now I have the FICM & PCM from the parts truck, as is all the wiring, except the glow plugs harness and from the cab to the back/box is original. Still cranking, no start. Oh and i also pushed that fuel shutoff button to see if that fixed it. I realize I don't have all the info you guys requested but if i dont get this out I wont have any time to get parts or tools sorted to try your suggestions before I have to go back to work. As soon as I get home I'll hook up the Forscan and input all that info. I think that my next thing should be changing out the fuel pump, by then I'll have Ford filters to put in. Unless that Forscan points me somewhere else. Sorry about the length of my post but you asked for it!
In chapter 8, I don’t remember seeing if getting fuel to the secondary housing was resolved. With key on, fuel should fill the housing pretty quickly. If it doesn’t, then there’s no point in even trying to use the starter.
In chapter 6, the FICM doesn’t need to go with the PCM, it just has to work.
FORScan, (or likable facsimile), is a must. Looks like you have a version of that on the way. Aside from the visual stuff you can check like fuel and oil, I think you may be in a holding pattern until you get some diagnostic ability. Since the harness has been moved back and forth I worry about all the sensor connections that make these tick like the crank pos sensor, cam pos sensor, IPR, icp, etc.
Yes that was pretty much what i thought. The Forscan cord arrived so when i get home on the 16th Ill be using that and will add all the info that i can from that. ASAP. As for that secondary housing its not even filling slowly. When we turn the key i cam hear the vac pump and the injectors clicking, absolutely no fuel. I drained it with a syringe to clean it and check the deisel condition. Thats why i started checking on the fuel pump harness and clips/connectors. Thank you so much for your reply.
BC
Yep, that’s the priority fix then in my opinion. If you have no fuel at the secondary bowl, there’s no point at looking at anything else. Thats gotta be fixed first.
Ok so I have some new info. I managed to get home Satuday night. I still haven't managed to swap the fuel pumps but i was able to hook up the Forscan. I'll attach pics of it when hooked up to my Ford and a pic of it hooked up to my boss's. Its not connecting to mine. I will do that fuel pump my next set off, starting on the 15th. My question, what parts/components effect the OBD plug, turnsignals, fuel pump & cause a trailer braking fault? It seems to me that at least some of those must have a common cause? My truck connested to Forscan. My bosses truck, so it does work.
I have checked every single fuse, multiple times. I think the last time was after the ficm change but... Ive been tearing my hair out over this for so long I'm starting to lose track. Ill check em again on the 16th jic
At first, you had to still have fuse 22 working because the starter was working. When you lost the ability to crank, it matched the loss of PCM Power (fuse 22 or PCM relay).
You could also have something that is dragging down the PCM voltage, and the likely candidates in order are:
Fan clutch short or faulty fan clutch connector/wiring
EGR valve, its connector/wiring
GPCM, its connector or wiring
IPR valve connector or wiring
After inspecting the fan clutch components, you can disconnect the EGR valve and the GPCM connectors and see if that returns the fuel pump and the cranking and the DLC communication.
