I have a 03 F350 6.0 Crew Cab that I purchased 10 years ago. When I first purchased the truck, I replaced the oil cooler with a SWAG performance oil cooler that has the extra cooling rows. I did the blue spring fuel psi modification, upgraded/repaired FICM by FICM repair with the Atlas tune (40hp), EGR delete, test pipe/cat removal, and the blue wire fan modification. I also pulled my radiator when I first purchased the truck and had a reputable radiator shop flush my radiator and make sure it had proper flow. My EOT/ECT’s ran with a delta about 5 deg difference @ 190/195 unloaded, daily driving with the SWAG oil cooler. I recently replaced my HPOP and I figured that I would replace my oil cooler since I was that deep into the engine. I had read on many forums that many “OEM” labeled oil coolers are made in China. I could not verify if the cooler I purchased from SWAG performance was made here in the US or if it was made in China? I also swapped the cooler because my towing ECT’s and EOT’s were high when towing up the mountains. With this information, I bit the bullet and purchased the BPD “OEM” oil cooler since they are the only reliable source to purchase an actual “OEM” oil cooler.

I before I installed the new HPOP and Oil cooler, I did a VC9 flush, then flushed the engine with tap water, removed the block plugs and changed out the coolant filter before and after the flush was completed. I also did a back flush with a kit I purchased a few years ago. Last time I did a backflush was 2 years ago. Anyway, after I removed all the VC9 and flushed the engine with tap water while it was running. I did this procedure for a long time to make sure the coolant system was clean. Then, I changed the coolant filter and then flushed the engine with distilled water. I think I used 40 gallons of distilled water to be sure the motor was flushed properly. I then drained the coolant system including the removal of the block plugs. I filled the engine with 3 gallons of Delo ELC coolant concentrate and topped the coolant off with distilled water and replaced the coolant filter a third time. I also replaced the thermostat with a new “OEM” thermostat.



After I replaced the HPOP and Oil Cooler, the truck runs amazingly well! The only codes I have seen since the repairs are the EGR code and the code for activating the clutch fan via the blue wire modification. No injector codes, IPR values never get above 74%. HPOP pressures before the replacement ran about 2200 @ WOT, now I see pressures around 3600 @ WOT. However, since the new HPOP, Oil Cooler, and thermostat, my truck runs hotter than it did with the old thermostat and Oil Cooler during normal driving. On average, my delts with the SWAG Oil Cooler and old thermostat, the truck ran about 190 ECT/195 EOT on the freeway on the flats. With the new thermostat and BPD Oil cooler, it runs about 196 ECT/ 204 EOT. My delta’s on the SWAG cooler ran about 6 deg difference at most, the new BPD cooler my delta’s are between 7-10 deg difference. The SWAG cooler I purchased had the extra cooling rows where the BPD is the stock unit which may explain the higher delta’s with the new Oil Cooler.

I changed my oil cooler for two reasons: One, I was not sure if the SWAG cooler was Chinese garbage or not, and two, my temps ran hot while towing our 8000lb TT up the mountain passes in 104deg weather. Last year while towing our trailer, I monitored the ECT’s/EOT’s while going up Snoqualmie and Blewitt pass and noticed that my temps were pretty hot. My ECT’s were between 220/230. I think the highest ECT’s/EOT’s were 232 at the highest/243 EOT. I was constantly monitoring the ECT’s/EOT’s, and I kept the clutch fan switch on when towing uphill to help keep the engine cool. This year, after the new Oil Cooler/Thermostat/HPOP, there was almost no difference in temps. This year, we drove in105 deg weather up the same pass (Snoqualmie and Blewitt pass) and same trailer. ECT’s/EOT’s got to a consistent 220ECT’s/230EOT’s while driving up the pass with the clutch fan on the entire time (same as last year). Trans temp's run about 160 the entire trip.

My concern is that my truck is running too hot while towing up the pass and there may be some sore of cooling problem. I understand that there is more load while towing which will create more heat. Yet, I am not sure if the truck is running too hot or not? I am not comfortable running the truck up the pass without activating the clutch fan. I don’t want the truck to get too hot. If I let the temps increase, I do not hear the clutch fan activate automatically. I allowed my ECT’s hit 222 and the clutch fan does not turn on unless I demand it on via my switch. Is this normal for the 6.0 trucks or should I be looking for some sort of cooling problem?

 

I don't think you're really outside the realm of what's normal, seems consistent with what I see.

But if you're worried, the Bullet Proof oil-to-air cooler is the answer. Completely separates the oil and coolant systems (other than the in-tank trans cooler). My dually has one, and it's nice to just not have the worry anymore about the oil cooler temps.

No issues with keeping the fan on if that's what you want to do. Mine seems to run before where you're at, but I leave the AC on max even when towing and I'm pretty sure the AC pressure switch is part of the control loop for the fan clutch. Bullet Proof also makes an adaptor nut to put in a non-electric fan clutch, but personally I like the override option that the switch gives you. Good idea to get ahead of the temps as best you can.

 

Thanks for the reply! I forgot to add, I also have ran my AC every trip. I really do not like running the clutch fan due to the noise, however, I would rather hear it running and know that my temps are under control. I just wish there was some way to keep the truck cooler so I would not need to run the clutch fan.

 

You could give a snow plow fan clutch a try.

 

What is different between the stock fan clutch and the Snow Plow fan clutch? Tell ya what, this truck makes me so nervous when we are towing up the pass in 90-100 deg weather. Temps continue to climb past 220 ECT which is why I always engage the switch on the fan thanks to the blue wire mod. I am often tempted to let the temp rise past 220 ECT until the fan automatically turns on, however, once I see my ECT hit 222. . . I just cant let the temps rise anymore! Way too hot while towing up the pass in hot weather. I do think I did let the ECT get to 230 a few years ago and the fan did come on, but that was some time ago.

Thanks for the suggestion of the Snow plow fan clutch. BTW, is the snow plow fan clutch quieter than the stock or just flow more CFM's?

 

Your fan should be coming on high speed long before ETCs hit 230. Regardless, if you're so worried about temps why are you waiting until it hits 220 to manually turn the fan on? I'd be turning it on at the start of the grade.

The Autozone snow plow clutch that I have has a close correlation between engine and fan RPMs, though not directly linked. When I hit the gas pedal I can hear the fan speed increase. It does back down some when cruising, but I can't say what it does at high temps because I haven't had it on my truck in the middle of summer for whatever reason.

 

I typically turn on my fan at the start of the climb up the pass . I recently wanted to see if the fan would turn on at 220. My ETC’s hit 222 and the fan did not turn on, last year I think it turned on at 230 but I don’t remember. I may upgrade the clutch fan to the snow plow version in the near future. I am still dealing with the healing process of my rotator cuff surgery, so I may put off the clutch fan replacement/upgrade until the spring. I’ve no idea why my fan does not come on automatically, but I always kick on the switch once my ECT’s hit 208-210. Thanks for the info!

 

EGR delete will affect electronic fan clutch operation. Not sure how, but there's been several discussions on that topic. I have the 7.3 clutch, so no info on the factory clutch here. Personally, I start to back off the throttle when ECT's get to 220.

 

I compared my temps this year with temps I was seeing last year because I had swapped oil coolers from the SWAG updated oil cooler to the BPD OIL cooler. The SWAG oil cooler did keep my temps lower, however, I also changed thermostats. I’m not sure about the previous thermostat, but the new thermostat was an OEM unit. Both oil coolers/thermostats had no real change in my ECT’s,EOT’s when we went upgrades in 90-100 deg weather. I always would turn my fan on going upgrade. In the 100 deg weather, temps would get up to 220. I’m considering (if possible) to get a radiator with an extra row for better cooling or an upgraded radiator. I also plan on researching the snow plow clutch fan too help keep my temps lower. Come spring, I hope to address these options.

 

Hartwig seems to be happy with his IPR Research radiator:

https://www.iprresearch.com/IPR-Extr...Excursion.html

You could send him a PM for details.

 

I don't think 221* is too hot, it's where the system was designed to peak at. Getting to that point doesn't mean there's a problem. If it's not puking past the cap, then the coolant isn't boiling and you aren't in any trouble (other than the oil cooler potentially). 220* isn't going to hurt anything on it's own. Mishi makes a "low temp" stat if you want it to open sooner at 185* and try to get ahead of it a little more.
https://www.mishimoto.com/ford-power...EaAgovEALw_wcB


Essentially nothing other than it won't turn backwards while driving when the plow is raised. The programming is the same in the PCM, which is what ultimately controls the clutch. The 7.3 mechanical clutch and adaptor nut works differently because there's no PCM commands to the clutch.


It has to do with the wiring being disconnected on certain PCM flashes. If a functional valve is plugged into the wiring harness, there are no fan operation issues. Regardless of where the valve is - some guys used to bolt them next to the hole instead of into it.

 

That's not what I have experienced with the Autozone snow plow clutch.

 

My experience with the plow clutch is, it is locked up until around 45 mph, then it acts like a standard clutch. Too much noise for my taste.

The IPR rad has my interests up.

 

So what's different then?

Because the real answer is it has a slightly higher speed when not commanded on. Meaning as soon as the PCM starts the step-up there is no functional difference between the two, and the PCM command rates don't change based on which clutch plugged into the harness. It will stay locked in longer if you've been idling and met a parameter to engage the clutch, ie AC or high idle. It doesn't have any effect on towing ECT above 40mph.

My truck came with the factory plow clutch.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19389849

 

My fan comes on at 207 and as needed increases in speed. How fast does the engine cool off after the grade?

Trust me, that thing will roar at 3000 RPM+ when needed. When your ECT is 232 and EOT 245 pulling a 20 mile (5000ft + climb) 5-9% grade in 100 degrees towing a camper (Death Valley) and there is no place to pull off you will appreciate the fan.