Hi,

I'm not sure what the current carb is, but I'm pretty sure it's not the Holley carb. The accelerator pump is on the side and I haven't found a carb that looks like that. I would really like to replace it with a new carb as this one has issues. There's no place to hook up the choke cable as far as I can see, and I can't start it without starter fluid and my finger on the butterfly. I have looked around a bit, but am new to this game so I don't know really where to find one. Any thoughts anyone?

Cheers,
Tim

 

Have you found any numbers on it. It is kind of difficult to see from here.2 barrel, 4? Pics?

 

This is a 2 barrel, for a Y block 272. I see no identifying marks. I think it's supposed to be a low profile Holley.

 

That is a Ford Autolite 2100 2bbl.

The 2100 was intro'd in '57, but that one looks to possibly be a later model.

I don't see many marks on it, other than the round "clock" looking mark under the accel pump linkage. That mark should include the venturi size, from which the CFM can be determined.

But I digress....

Kits are available and it's an easy carb to rebuild.

There's no place for a choke cable because that carb is setup with an automatic choke. The black round item on the RH side has a bi-metal spring that releases the choke when it warms up. Yours even has the heater hose holder which would speed the process.

You could spring for a Holley 2300 350 CFM carb, or a governed Holley 2300 that would be more "correct" .

Or go through this one for about $50.

 

Thanks for the info - very helpful! I decided to go with a Holley 2300 "Street Avenger" 350CFM from Summit Racing (HLY-0-80350) for $475 plus $15 for the base plate gasket. More $$ than the UREMCO remanufactured version ($199) but in stock and a more authentic option than any of the aftermarket brands, IMHO. It has an electric choke, so hooking that up will be a bit interesting as I don't want to simply wire it to the ignition circuit - It needs to only be activated when the engine is running, not just key turned on. So, shouldn't be all that hard I figure (he says confidently).

Cheers,
Tim

 

The Holley 2300 is half a Holley v4 carb and uses all the same "tuning parts" if needed.

As for the choke dose the carb on the motor use heating tubes to the choke housing?
If not you might be able to swap the black housings and run the heater hose next to it to help heat it up.
or
Being the Holley takes 12 volts and you only want it to have power when motor was running you will need to wire in a relay for it to work right.
The trigger for the relay will come from the ALT stator lug. It is 6 volts but should be enough to trigger the relay as the S lug will only get power when the motor is running.
The 80's trucks some of the chokes are hot air asst., tubes from the exh manifold to the choke housing, and use the S lug as power to open the choke. If the temp is above 70*f then the hot air asst. kicks in to open the choke faster.
Dave ----

 

No, there are no heating tubes around the carb. I like your idea of putting in a relay. That seems to be the simplest and "less hokey" solution. I guess I'll worry about getting it to shut off later, if it in fact is a problem. Worst case I can always wire a "choke kill" switch on the dash. Or heck, maybe even do something clever with the existing choke ****, so it at least has some function - LOL

Thanks!
Tim

 

If you have a choke cable and it works / moves Dorman makes a manual choke kit that you remove the black cap, fit a piece inside the housing to get a shaft to come out the new cap in the kit that you bolt on.
Figure a way to hook up choke cable and you are done.
Dave ----

 

Dave, wow! That's awesome, maybe I'll go that route then, thank you :-)

Cheers,
Tim

 

Just wanted to share my fun this weekend. I replaced the Autolite carb with a new Holley carb. I did the electric choke to manual choke conversion so now that **** on the dash actually does something :-)
It worked great, but too WAY longer than I anticipated because I kept running into other stuff that needed to be fixed. Typical.

Thanks everyone for the info and suggestions that were very helpful in getting this project done.
Cheers,
Tim

New carb partially installed

manual choke detail

fully installed with original air cleaner "bundt cake pan"

Throttle linkage and extra return spring.

 

Glad it worked out for you.